Struggling to make sense of who’s leading fashion’s biggest houses? Here’s a look at the creative shake-ups of 2025, with all the latest updates
The fashion industry is no stranger to seismic shifts, but 2025 is shaping up to be a year of unprecedented changes in the creative leadership of some of the most established luxury houses. With an array of new designers taking the lead at storied brands and a growing list of powerhouses yet to announce their next visionary, the landscape is evolving in real time. If you’ve ever wanted a cheat sheet on the emerging figures in fashion, consider this your ultimate guide.
All Eyes on Them: The Creative Directors Making Their 2025 Debuts
This year, some of the most anticipated creative transitions are finally taking centre stage. Sarah Burton, after her long tenure at Alexander McQueen, is stepping into the role at Givenchy, signalling a potential return to romantic tailoring with a sharp edge.
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Matthieu Blazy, fresh off his acclaimed work at Bottega Veneta, is now at Chanel, where his ability to blend craftsmanship with innovation could usher in a more relaxed yet luxurious take on the house’s codes.
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Meanwhile, Louise Trotter is set to take over Bottega Veneta, bringing her minimalist and sophisticated aesthetic to a brand known for its quiet luxury. Julian Klausner, a name that may not be widely recognized, has been appointed to Dries Van Noten, making his direction for this cult-favourite label one to watch closely.
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Over at Celine, Michael Rider steps into the role previously held by Hedi Slimane. The question now is whether he will maintain the brand’s rock-and-roll DNA or shift towards a more unconventional direction. Meanwhile, Haider Ackermann has taken the reins at Tom Ford, a label known for its sexy, confident fashion. It will be interesting to see if he steers the brand into a more refined and artistic space. Glenn Martens, known for his experimental edge at Y/Project and Diesel, is now poised to infuse his unconventional aesthetic into Maison Margiela. Lastly, David Koma’s appointment at Blumarine signals an evolution of the brand’s ultra-feminine style, possibly elevating it to new creative heights.
Luxury’s Empty Seats: The Fashion Houses Seeking a Creative Leader
While some houses have already appointed their new creative directors, others continue to keep the industry on edge with key vacancies yet to be filled.
Fendi stands out as one of the most closely watched, with speculation mounting over who will take the reins following Kim Jones’ departure from womenswear and couture—especially as the brand celebrates its 100th anniversary this year under the sole creative leadership of Silvia Venturini Fendi. Meanwhile, Dior faces a significant transition as it searches for a new visionary to lead its menswear division after Jones left this LVMH-owned brand.
Even Gucci, owned by Kering, remains in limbo following Alessandro Michele’s exit and Sabato Sarno’s abrupt departure, leaving the brand at a major crossroads.
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Proenza Schouler, long associated with a downtown cool aesthetic, has yet to announce its next creative force. Similarly, Carven, a brand that once held a strong position in the Parisian fashion scene, awaits a leader who could make or break its revival.
Fashion’s Top Designers Without a Home: What’s Next for the Industry’s Biggest Names?
Some of the industry’s biggest designer names are currently without a defined next move, leaving fashion insiders guessing their next steps.
Hedi Slimane’s departure from Celine has raised questions about whether he will revert to his signature rockstar-inspired aesthetic or surprise us with something entirely new. Similarly, the legendary John Galliano, following his exit from Maison Margiela, remains as unpredictable as ever, with rumours swirling about his future projects.
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Meanwhile, Pierpaolo Piccioli, who has created some of Valentino’s most iconic collections, may soon take the helm at another fashion house. Sabato De Sarno’s brief tenure at Gucci has left many doors open for him as well. Kim Jones, a powerhouse in menswear, might be planning a completely unexpected venture.
Finally, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the duo behind Proenza Schouler, are now free agents, prompting speculation about whether they will take their vision in a radically new direction or join a major fashion house.
The Burning Question: What’s Next for Luxury Fashion?
The shifts in creative leadership are not just about names changing on office doors; they reflect broader transformations in the ethos of fashion. Will we see a return to heritage and craftsmanship, or will experimental and disruptive styles dominate? What about pricing, and how will today’s pressing issues be addressed?
As a new generation of designers emerges and Generation Z becomes increasingly disinterested in the “who’s who” gossip of the industry, the focus is shifting toward evaluating new creative directors based on their tangible actions regarding fashion’s most urgent themes, such as sustainability and inclusivity. Luxury fashion stands at a crossroads: it has the potential for change but also the risk of stagnation. Stay tuned—2025 is just getting started.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist and Master Course Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan