“It was only as an adult that I truly understood the crucial role of individuality and emotions in crafting a cohesive narrative within a fashion collection. Observing today’s youth, who introspectively seek their own uniqueness, even if it conflicts with social expectations or market demands, I’ve seen this truth reflected: your essence, what truly feels right, is what truly matters.” This is how fashion design master Walter Chiapponi started a conversation on the importance of emotions and individuality in the creation and coordination of a fashion collection.
Students from the Master in Fashion Design programme at Istituto Marangoni attending the launch of Walter Chiapponi's mentorship project
Embracing Individuality: Walter Chiapponi on the Role of Personal Expression
As Mentor of the Master’s in Fashion Design at Istituto Marangoni Milano, we had the opportunity to meet Walter Chiapponi, the former designer of Blumarine, renowned for his work at Tod’s. It was during the launch of his “Unveiling Individuality” mentorship project that we crossed paths. Chiapponi’s initiative aimed to challenge students, helping them discover and enhance their creative individuality while acknowledging the transformative potential of personal expression. As they brace themselves for an inner journey to unveil their talents, Istituto Marangoni’s emerging fashion designers are poised to craft a unique visual language, reflecting their distinct interpretation of fashion and style.
“I’ve come to understand the significance of individuality and emotion in fashion. Witnessing today’s youth embrace their uniqueness reaffirms that being true to oneself is what truly matters” – Walter Chiapponi, fashion designer and Mentor of the Master in Fashion Design at Istituto Marangoni Milano
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Authentic Storytelling: The Significance of Emotions in Fashion
Walter Chiapponi defined emotions as more than just a new trend, echoing customers’ desire to rediscover authentic fashion that resonates with everyone’s aesthetic individuality.
“In my last Tod’s Spring-Summer 2024 runway show in September 2023, everything was thrilling, from the location to the casting,” said Chiapponi, highlighting the significance of emotions. “We showcased at Laboratori del Teatro alla Scala Ansaldo, a place housing multiple workshops where the artistic elements and sets for Teatro alla Scala come to life. I recall the sculpture workshop, where artisans were crafting Don Carlo’s wings for the Opera debut on December 7. The emotional atmosphere of the venue had a significant influence on my collection; it had become more severe and almost cold, yet with a touch of deep sensitivity that enveloped the audience.” That’s why, today, it’s crucial to create authentic storytelling that can evoke emotions while still being true to the brand’s DNA and reconnecting with each customer’s individuality.
Walter Chiapponi, mentoring students at Istituto Marangoni Milano, underscores the pivotal role of emotions and individuality in the art of fashion collection creation
Fashion has evolved beyond merely crafting garments from exquisite fabrics and following trends; it has become a choreography of emotions, structure, and numbers, as Walter Chiapponi emphasised.
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“For my Blumarine show in February this year, I aimed to create a blend of minimalist femininity, edgy chic, and vintage sensuality with a 90s style” Chiapponi continued. “Drawing inspiration from my vintage archive, I reinterpreted forgotten fabrics like bouclé, knitwear, and embroidery. The materials were transformed through an emotional process, retaining their romanticism and traditional charm while being ruffled, cut, and volumised in a modern interpretation. In some ways, I was inspired by Christiane F from ‘Zoo Station: The Story of Christiane F.’ I also paid homage to fashion designer and Blumarine founder, Mrs. Anna Molinari, while infusing a touch of the 90s into Blumarine’s essence.”
Eclectic Inspirations: Walter Chiapponi’s Use of Vintage and Cinematic Influences in Design
In sharing his inspiration for the Fall-Winter 2024/25 Blumarine collection, Walter Chiapponi revealed his passion for art, vintage, and cinema. “My favourite movies? Buffalo ‘66, directed by Vincent Gallo, and The Virgin Suicides by Sofia Coppola; they have inspired me immensely.”
Walter Chiapponi mentoring Master’s in Fashion Design students at Istituto Marangoni Milano
Moreover, archive and vintage pieces play a key role in Chiapponi’s aesthetic and research. “Like cinema, vintage is an incredibly inspirational source for me,” he said. “My vintage archive is extensive, filled with pieces by Martin Margiela and Helmut Lang. It’s akin to playing with Lego: taking a dress from the 70s, cutting off the sleeves, and sewing those of a parka... Here’s my Lego, modern yet authentic!”
“Vintage is like cinema to me—an endless source of inspiration. My archive is filled with pieces from Martin Margiela and Helmut Lang. It’s like playing with Lego: taking a 70s dress, adding parka sleeves... “ – Walter Chiapponi
But Walter Chiapponi’s innovative methods and sources of emotional inspiration would be mere curiosities if he hadn’t also incorporated striking visual and auditory elements, such as the German version of David Bowie’s song “Heroes”, which permeated the finale of his Blumarine Fall-Winter 2024/25 runway show, conveying a luxurious yet ironic femininity.
Navigating Criticism: Why Showing Resilience Matters when Redefining Fashion Norms
Nonetheless, as the fashion designer highlighted, challenges arise not only in the creative and coordinating process but also in the production itself. It requires resilience to navigate through all criticisms, especially when pushing boundaries in the fashion world.
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“I faced particular criticism for the runway casting choices. Some people felt that there were too many models with dark circles, messy hair, and non-traditional identities, which seemed to ‘offend’ older members of the audience who were not yet ready to accept that the fashion world is no longer exclusive,” Chiapponi remarked. “However, inclusivity remains a cornerstone of my emotional storytelling, a value I champion despite criticism, as it defines my individuality and creative identity.”
“Inclusivity remains central to my storytelling, defining my individuality and creative identity despite criticism” – Walter Chiapponi
Fostering Creative Courage: Walter Chiapponi’s Message to Emerging Fashion Designers
At the end of the meeting, Walter Chiapponi shared a bold and motivating message to young fashion designers, setting the tone for his mentorship programme at Istituto Marangoni Milano: “Be curious. Never lose your curiosity to explore everything around you, and dare to break away from boredom by working on the ugly things and transforming them into beauty. And above all, don’t be afraid to express your creativity and individuality in your creations because only then can you truly inspire and be inspired.”
“Never lose your curiosity to explore everything around you and dare to transform the ugly into beauty” – Walter Chiapponi
As a Mentor of the Master’s in Fashion Design at Istituto Marangoni Milano, we had the opportunity to discuss the role of personal expression with Walter Chiapponi
Diletta Moschella
MA in Fashion Promotion, Communication & Digital Media, Milan