Chanel’s Virginie Viard to Tom Ford’s Peter Hawkings: What’s with bridge designers?
Keeping the legacy alive while shaping the future: bridge designers are hired to succeed big-name creative directors, but issues arise
Peter Hawkings is leaving the Tom Ford brand less than a year after stepping in as the creative director following the fashion house’s sale to Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) at the end of 2022. Hawkings, who debuted his collection in September 2023, seemed like the perfect successor to the brand’s designer Tom Ford on paper.
@lofficielparis Peter Hawkings’s debut collection for Tom Ford was certainly an ode to his predecessor. From bold color choices to sleek tailoring moments, everything about the collection classic Tom Ford. #Milan #FashionWeek #TomFord #runway #looks #MFW #MilanFashionWeek #fashion #peterhawkings ♬ son original - lofficiel
Having worked under Ford for nearly two decades, first at Gucci and then at Ford’s namesake label, Peter Hawkings’ promotion from design director last April was part of a growing trend of elevating second-in-command designers.
This trend, seen with Virginie Viard at Chanel and Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta, focuses on maintaining continuity. Hawkings even mirrored Tom Ford’s iconic style, sporting orange-tinted sunglasses and impeccably tailored suits.
Peter Hawkings.Collage courtesy of IM alumna and graphic designer Constanza Coscia
However, Peter Hawkings’ collections received lukewarm responses from critics, who felt they were too much of a Tom Ford repeat. Continuity was intended, but it didn’t resonate as hoped. Despite the importance of stability, especially in the transition after Tom Ford, Peter Hawkings’ take on the brand felt too much like a rehash of Ford’s signature aesthetic rather than a fresh evolution.
When Tom Ford sold his label for $2.8 billion to ELC, the agreement included a 20-year license with Zegna Group to continue producing Tom Ford fashion. At the time, the deal seemed to indicate a shift in focus towards beauty products over ready-to-wear fashion.
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Yet, Peter Hawkings pushed the Tom Ford ready-to-wear line at Milan Fashion Week, heavily marketing it through celebrities like Timothée Chalamet—who also wore two looks riffed off women’s collections. This move aimed to boost Tom Ford’s womenswear sales, which comprised 30% of its revenue in 2023.
Hawkings, a skilled menswear designer who previously worked in London on Tom Ford’s men’s collection, faced challenges with womenswear upon being promoted to Tom Ford’s creative director. Before his debut, he admitted to Vogue that there was a “disconnect” between the men’s and women’s collections, worsened by geographic separation and the lack of direct collaboration with Tom Ford’s women’s team in LA.
Despite the cohesive presentations, Peter Hawkings’ collections felt like business as usual. For a brand needing revitalisation, this approach fell short. Tom Ford’s runway shows, while secondary to its beauty business, still play a crucial role in maintaining the brand’s luxurious image. However, they lacked the excitement and innovation required to attract celebrities and media attention.
Now, with Peter Hawkings’ departure, he joins a list of bridge designers who have faced similar challenges. Virginie Viard at Chanel, who followed Karl Lagerfeld, and Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, who succeeded Alexander Lee McQueen, both had varying degrees of success. Virginie Viard’s more pragmatic approach eventually ran its course despite initial success, while Sarah Burton thrived, stabilising and growing McQueen’s brand.
@modelsphase Sarah Burton's last collection for #alexandermcqueen was incredible. She was one of Mcqueen's last apprentices before he passed away, she knew him like no one else! I hope she is happy on her new journey❤️ #fashion ♬ after hours X bl chromatic ver. - nabi¹¹¹
These examples demonstrate that although continuity can be effective in fashion, it does have its limits. The industry’s impatience for quick results is shortening the tenure of bridge designers. The allure of star designers like Karl Lagerfeld or Tom Ford stems from their talent for transforming runway shows into unmissable events—an achievement that lesser-known names, often former second-in-command professionals, struggle to emulate.
The fashion world is now eagerly anticipating the replacements for Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford as well as Virginie Viard at Chanel. The industry is watching to see if the new designers can strike the right balance between honouring the past and innovating for the future. The lesson from recent trends is clear: success for second-in-command designers hinges on their ability to bring a fresh, bold vision and not just ensure continuity.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master Programme Tutor; Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan