Mary Katrantzou’s appointment as Bulgari’s first-ever creative director of leather goods and accessories is nothing short of ground-breaking. This news isn’t just hot off the press; it’s all about innovation. For the very first time, a fashion designer takes the helm of a newly forged position at the luxury jewellery house.
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In her new role, the Greek designer, who is known for showcasing collections under her eponymous label during London Fashion Week, now oversees the jewellery maison’s leather goods and accessories collection. Under Katrantzou’s leadership, Bulgari’s offerings include everything from leather day bags to silk creations and even one-of-a-kind or exceptionally rare high-jewellery bags, aligning the brand’s luxury universe within the LVMH group.
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As per multiple media sources, Mary Katrantzou’s debut designs for Bulgari, marking her entrance into the brand’s new role, will be available at Bulgari boutiques worldwide starting in August 2024.
Rumours suggest that Mary Katrantzou’s role at Bulgari may only be the initial step into a broader involvement with the brand. Speculation for future seasons hints at the possibility of her venturing into the jewellery product category, currently overseen by the talented Lucia Silvestri.
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This decision could potentially emerge as a winning move for the brand founded by Sotirio Bulgari. Interestingly, he honed his skills as a silversmith in Greece before establishing the brand in Rome in 1884.
In today’s landscape, international jewellery brands are facing a creativity issue. While they continue to celebrate significant anniversaries, hire star-studded A-listers as costly ambassadors, and dress celebrities at their most prestigious red-carpet appearances, they seem to be running low on fresh ideas and engaging storytelling. Moreover, embracing a fashion designer like Mary Katrantzou could signify a significant win for their target consumer base—a young demographic craving innovation and a fusion of design elements and creativity across all spheres.
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Is it time for a multifaceted wave of creatives, echoing the transformative shifts in the fashion industry, to make their mark in the world of bling-bling? Posterity will judge.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master’s Programme Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan