The German-born designer is the latest creative director to watch as she reinvents the French brand with a modern twist on classic boho chic
Chloé has just become a whole lot cooler. With Chemena Kamali stepping in as the new creative director, replacing Gabriela Hearst, and Laurent Malecaze taking over as CEO from Riccardo Bellini, the Parisian label under Swiss conglomerate Richemont is making a bold leap into its next chapter.
Kamali, a German designer with a rich history at Chloé, officially assumed her role in January 2024, unveiling a pre-collection followed by a runway show during Paris Fashion Week womenswear in February. Now, all eyes are on her as she sets the stage for a fresh, contemporary vision for the brand. Renowned for stunning campaigns and effortlessly chic designs, the new Chloé under Chemena Kamali is already being hailed as the name to watch for the upcoming Paris Fashion Week in September.
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But what makes Chemena Kamali’s work so exciting? It’s the blend of tradition and modernity that feels both nostalgic and fresh. She’s embracing the classic boho aesthetic Chloé is known for—think flowing dresses, lace, and dreamy chiffon—but she’s doing it in a way that feels romantic yet subtly sensual. Even the choice to shoot campaigns in front of iconic Parisian landmarks like the Eiffel Tower might seem like a cliché, but under Kamali’s direction, it just works. There’s an authenticity to her approach that resonates with fashion lovers everywhere.
Born in 1981, Chemena Kamali began her journey with Chloé years ago when she worked on Phoebe Philo’s team. She later took on the role of design director in the Chloé by Clare Waight Keller in 2012. From 2016, she further honed her craft at Saint Laurent under Anthony Vaccarello, and now she’s returned to Chloé to bring her refined yet youthful touch to the brand’s collections.
@newsfash Chemena Kamali’s Chloé Debut for Fall ‘24 #chloe #chemenakamali #newsfash #PFW ♬ Stargaze - iamanewmonster
Chloé’s revamped image was introduced through The Chloé Portraits, a series of photographs featuring both past and present brand ambassadors, taken by English photographer David Sims. Set against a backdrop of Parisian rooftops and the iconic Eiffel Tower, the images capture an effortless cool that harks back to Chloé’s origins while pushing the brand forward. Kamali’s vision of the Chloé woman embodies strength, beauty, and freedom—qualities that are highly sought after in the modern fashion world. Styled by Lotta Volkova, the campaign featured familiar faces such as Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova and American model Jessica Miller, alongside a new generation of Chloé ambassadors, including Rwandan model Ornella Umutoni, Chinese beauty Fei Fei Sun, and Norwegian stunner Kristine Lindseth. “I aimed to capture the emotion and energy of Chloé, as well as those of the women who embody both its history and the spirit of the house. They are naturally strong, beautiful, and free,” commented Kamali. On this occasion, Chloé also unveiled a refreshed logo that references the brand’s 1970s archives, echoing a sleek and timeless aesthetic reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld’s tenure.
@chloe Guests at the Chloé Winter 2024 Show by Creative Director Chemena Kamali #Chloe #ChloeWinter2024 #ChemenaKamali ♬ son original - Chloe
Next came the Chloé Fall 24 campaign, which unveiled Kamali’s first pre-collection. “I wanted these images to reflect the instinctive spirit and motion of the Chloé woman. She is rooted in reality and free,” remarked the designer. Captured in Paris by Sam Rock, the photographs once again showcased the city’s iconic architecture as a backdrop.
After that, the Winter 2024 campaign was launched, featuring Kamali’s debut runway collection. For this campaign, the creative enlisted David Sims again to produce a series of portraits featuring models like Kaia Gerber and Rianne Van Rompaey. “The Chloé woman is at the centre; her aura, direct gaze, and personality draw you into an eternal Chloé moment,” stated Kamali, who incorporated signature elements such as flowing fabrics, lace, capes, tailoring, and denim.
What’s next? Fashion insiders are already predicting that she’ll be one of the hottest names of the season. Why? Simply because Kamali’s aesthetic is a perfect fit for Chloé—romantic yet modern, nostalgic yet fresh. As the fashion world anticipates her next moves, it’s clear that Chloé, under Chemena Kamali’s direction, is poised to reclaim its cool factor in a big way. Get ready to see her creations everywhere by Spring-Summer 2025.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master’s Programme Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan