As Alessandro Michele’s debut Haute Couture collection for Valentino approaches, we uncover the insights shared with BoF that are shaping this significant moment
As Valentino is gearing up for the highly anticipated launch of Alessandro Michele’s first Haute Couture collection on January 29, the fashion world is abuzz. Michele’s appointment as creative director represents a new chapter for the maison—one that also marked a reunion between two creative visionaries. Both Michele and Jacopo Venturini, Valentino’s CEO, share a long history from their time at Gucci, where their collaboration—Michele as creative director and Venturini as executive vice president of merchandising—helped transform the brand into a global phenomenon. Now, they are poised to work their magic once again, merging the heritage of Valentino Garavani with bold, forward-thinking ideas.
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After years of minimalism dominating the fashion scene, Alessandro Michele’s return feels like a breath of fresh air. His Valentino Spring-Summer 2025 ready-to-wear collection, titled Pavillon des Folies and presented in Paris on September 29, 2024, was a jubilant celebration of maximalism. Lace, sequins, pearls, and bows make a bold comeback, all with a modern twist that makes them feel entirely new and relevant. The collection blends Valentino Garavani’s classic codes with Michele’s playful and eclectic approach, featuring shimmering brocades, striking Seventies prints, and contemporary silhouettes, all infused with his distinctive creative signature.
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This commitment to both reinvention and respect for heritage is central to Michele’s approach at Valentino. Under his leadership, the maison has implemented a more streamlined strategy by presenting Haute Couture collections just once a year and combining men’s and women’s ready-to-wear shows into unified co-ed presentations. These changes reflect a thoughtful reevaluation of the brand’s operations, allowing for a deeper focus on craftsmanship and storytelling.
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As the countdown to Alessandro Michele’s Haute Couture debut officially begins, anticipation continues to build. Valentino’s identity as a maison de couture remains at the heart of its evolution, and the collaboration between Michele and Venturini promises to push the boundaries of luxury.
While we await the unveiling of Valentino’s most exclusive creations, here’s what Alessandro Michele and Jacopo Venturini shared with BoF VOICES 2024.
A Collaboration Built on Respect
Jacopo Venturini, Valentino’s CEO since 2020 and a long-time collaborator of Michele, describes their partnership as the epitome of mutual respect and a shared vision.
“True creativity does not thrive in competition, but in respect” – Jacopo Venturini, CEO at Valentino
During BoF VOICES 2024, Venturini emphasised that their partnership transcends the traditional boundaries between designer and CEO. Together, they face every challenge—be it in production or creative direction—ensuring that their collective vision is executed with precision and authenticity.
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Valentino Is a Maison de Couture
Their deep respect for couture further highlights this spirit of collaboration.
“The essence of couture is intimacy. Valentino is a maison de couture” – Jacopo Venturini
For both Michele and Venturini, Valentino represents more than just a label; it’s a maison de couture, a home where fashion merges seamlessly with the soul of the wearer.
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Breathing New Life into Tradition
Beyond artistry, Venturini believes that success in the luxury sector is deeply connected to culture—a fundamental element that needs to be nurtured.
“Culture within a company is the most difficult to build; it defines everything” – Jacopo Venturini
Together, Venturini and Michele are committed to fostering an environment where creativity and culture thrive alongside each other. Their collaboration also embodies the delicate balance between art and commerce, as well as tradition and innovation.
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Alessandro Michele’s approach to Valentino is one of seamless integration rather than domination, harmonising his vision with the brand’s storied legacy as its dedicated custodian.
“I see myself as a friend of Valentino’s history. My role is not to make it mine, but to bring myself into it” – Alessandro Michele, creative director at Valentino
The Freedom to Be Free
For Michele, the idea of polarising the audience is part of the fun.
“I think I polarise the audience in some ways. There are people who hate me in a very strong and aggressive way. And it’s so fun because I don’t care. I’m happy with myself because I’m free, and I think it’s something I must preserve” – Alessandro Michele
Instead of shying away from criticism, Michele embraces it. “I don’t care,” he said to BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks during BoF VOICES 2024, remaining unfazed. This sense of gentle irreverence and authenticity fuels his creative freedom.
Michele also recalled a moment when a photo of him walking the streets after work went viral on Instagram.
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In the picture, he was wearing a tapestry jacket, a straw shopping bag, and Crocs. “People were like, ‘Where are you pretending to go? Why are you wearing a straw bag in winter?’” he chuckled at the absurdity of it all. “It’s a crazy world,” he said, but he still finds humour and peace in embracing his own style, no matter how unconventional it may seem.
Michele’s confidence in his own freedom is contagious. “I’m free,” he declared during the interview. “And I think that’s something I must preserve.” For him, freedom is not just a personal choice—it’s a stance against the pressure to conform. “To be so aggressive against the freedom of someone else,” he added, “is just not human. It means there’s something in your life that’s not working well.”
This unapologetic attitude permeates his work, where the boundaries of fashion are constantly pushed—not to provoke but to demonstrate that being true to oneself, regardless of how polarising, is the ultimate form of creative expression.
Nurturing Creativity
Michele’s creative process is not confined to rigid plans.
“I see myself as putting an exotic plant in the middle of this garden” – Alessandro Michele
During his talk at BoF VOICES 2024, he likened the creation of fashion to nurturing a living organism—one that grows and evolves through care and experimentation. This openness to evolution is essential to Valentino’s future.
“You have to ask yourself questions every day. Things change, and it’s essential to be aware of that” – Jacopo Venturini
This mindset enables both pro players to honour Valentino’s past and the creative heritage of its founder, Valentino Garavani, while confidently shaping the brand’s future.
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It’s All About Love and Dreams
At the heart of it all is love.
“It’s about love: love for the brand, its heritage, and the dreams we continue to create” – Alessandro Michele
This love drives every decision, every detail, every dream that Valentino brings to life. Michele and Venturini’s work transcends fashion, as it is about creating a space for ideas, collaboration, and risk-taking. Valentino is not just a company; it is a home for dreamers and artists.
Their shared belief that creativity and freedom are essential to success is a testament to the future they are building—a future that merges heritage with daring, innovative ideas.
So, What’s Next?
At Valentino, Alessandro Michele and Jacopo Venturini are redefining traditional concepts of what a fashion house can be.
Their approach provides a blueprint for future leaders, demonstrating that true success comes from balancing freedom with responsibility, art with commerce, and history with vision. Valentino’s future is not only promising; it is bold—and the journey has only just begun.
Lucrezia Spina
Editor, Milan