The fashion world is in a state of upheaval, abuzz with a trio of high-stakes announcements that have set the industry alight. First, Louise Trotter bids farewell to Carven. Then, in a move that surprised few but delighted many, Bottega Veneta reveals that creative director Matthieu Blazy is stepping down, with Trotter stepping in to take the helm—a decision widely celebrated as a return to female leadership within the Kering portfolio.
But the plot thickens. In a third act, Matthieu Blazy is announced as the new creative force behind Chanel, a house synonymous with enduring elegance. The move signals a turning point for one of the world’s most revered fashion institutions. Why Blazy—a talent respected but arguably less headline-grabbing than other contenders—was chosen to guide Chanel into its next chapter remains the question on everyone’s lips.
The answer lies in the balance Blazy represents: a blend of innovation and reverence, creativity and commercial acumen. Unlike other prominent names rumored to be in the mix—such as Hedi Slimane, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Marc Jacobs, and even Phoebe Philo—Blazy offers French maison a unique proposition. He’s a visionary capable of redefining the brand's aesthetic while ensuring its legacy remains intact.
The case for Matthieu Blazy
Blazy’s rise in the fashion industry has been meteoric yet measured. Educated at École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Visuels de La Cambre in Brussels, Blazy honed his skills under luminaries like Raf Simons and Phoebe Philo. His experience at Maison Margiela, Céline, Calvin Klein, and, most recently, Bottega Veneta, has built a formidable résumé. Under his leadership at Bottega Veneta since 2021, the brand has flourished, earning critical acclaim and financial success, with revenues climbing steadily—up 3% in the first half of 2023 compared to the same period in 2022. Blazy’s tenure at Bottega Veneta has been marked by an ability to blend innovation with tradition. His designs resonate on red carpets and in high-end boutiques, worn by stars like Rihanna and Jennifer Lawrence while maintaining an exclusivity that aligns with the house’s heritage. This ability to balance creativity with commercial appeal is precisely what Chanel needs.
Why Chanel chose Blazy over other contenders
Blazy’s approach at Bottega Veneta demonstrated that he could modernize a heritage brand without losing its essence. Chanel’s core audience, steeped in the legacy of Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, values evolution over revolution. Blazy’s ability to push boundaries while honoring tradition makes him the ideal choice.
Unlike competitors such as Simon Porte Jacquemus or Marc Jacobs, who juggle their eponymous labels alongside potential directorships, Blazy doesn’t have his own brand. This ensures his complete focus on the maison, a factor likely pivotal in the maison’s decision.
Chanel is a brand deeply tied to its Parisian identity and heritage. While talents like Hedi Slimane might bring dramatic, brand-defining changes, Chanel’s strategy likely prioritizes a more controlled evolution. Blazy, celebrated for his thoughtful and restrained creativity, offers innovation without overshadowing the brand’s legacy.
The challenges ahead
Taking the lead at Chanel is no small task. The brand, synonymous with timeless elegance and Parisian sophistication, carries the weight of a storied history. Blazy will be stepping into the shadow of Karl Lagerfeld, whose transformative tenure defined modern Chanel, and Virginie Viard, who emphasized continuity. Blazy’s appointment also raises questions about how his Milanese sensibilities—honed during his time at Bottega Veneta—will translate to Maison’s Parisian heritage. Will his minimalist aesthetic and emphasis on craftsmanship resonate with Chanel’s clientele? If successful, his tenure could redefine what it means to lead a legacy brand in the modern era.
A new era for Chanel
Will he usher in a transformative era that marries Chanel’s storied past with a progressive future? If his track record is any indication, the answer seems to be a resounding yes. Blazy’s potential appointment reflects Chanel’s strategic foresight. In a time when the luxury market demands both innovation and authenticity, Chanel has chosen a leader who embodies both. His appointment marks not just a continuation of the maison’s legacy but the beginning of a new chapter—one where the iconic brand remains timeless yet relevant in an ever-evolving industry. As Blazy prepares to step into this monumental role, all eyes will be on the Parisian runways to see how his vision unfolds. For Chanel, this isn’t just a changing of the guard; it’s the start of an era that promises to honor its heritage while boldly embracing the future.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master’s Programme Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan