Hey Marc Jacobs, we loved your doll-like show! And your Heaven line’s pure Gen-Z
If your phone is your best buddy, and Instagram is always just a tap away, you must be in the loop about the fabulous 60-year-old Marc Jacobs throwing a week-long bash to celebrate his 40th anniversary in the fashion scene.
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In his signature ironic and quintessentially American flair, Jacobs unleashed the #MJ40 hashtag, kickstarting a campaign masterfully orchestrated by the fashion fav Juergen Teller. The line-up featured the likes of Marc Jacobs himself, FKA Twigs, Lila Moss, Bladee, Dakota Fanning, Lil Uzi Vert, and Cindy Sherman, all striking poses outside the Marc Jacobs offices on 72 Spring St in the heart of New York.
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And why not add a viral video sensation to the mix? Picture this: the creative maestro daringly attempting (and comically failing) to blow out the candles on a perilously blazing cake. As chaos ensued, he fled the scene, demonstrating a more urgent concern for safeguarding his bag than his own well-being. Of course, Marc Jacobs is a pro who not only knows how to break the Internet but also effortlessly maintains the essence of an iconoclastic brand.
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Adding an extra layer to the celebrations, last Friday night at the Park Avenue Armory in Manhattan’s Upper East Side, Marc Jacobs revealed his latest collection. The show was a surreal and divisive spectacle, a trademark of Jacobs, drawing inspiration from 1960s paper dolls and their whimsically exaggerated paper outfits. According to The Guardian, “it was no greatest hits affair.”
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On the contrary, The Washington Post’s Rachel Tashjian asserts that “Marc Jacobs and John Galliano made fashion interesting again.” Tashjian paints a vivid picture of the collection, themed around wonder, set against the backdrop of Robert Therrien’s massive folding chairs and table, titled “No title (folding table and chairs, beige)” from 2006. “As models strutted out in slightly oversized clothes and comically huge wigs, the scene resembled children playing under a table, a makeshift house for our fashion dolls,” Tashjian wrote.
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Hats off, Marc Jacobs! Once again, you’ve captivated everyone with your humour and the knack for crafting a show that serves as a playground “to play, to imagine, to experiment.” Yet, amidst these 40-year celebrations, is there something we’re overlooking? Maybe the seasoned editors from a different generation are, but not us. As devoted fashion enthusiasts, we cherish the moments that have etched your name in the annals of fashion history, and we wholeheartedly applaud your latest show. However, speaking as Gen-Zers, our hearts also hold a special place for your Heaven by Marc Jacobs line—a true cult for the younger crowd.
The Craze for Heaven by Marc Jacobs: Why Every TikToker Can’t Get That Brand Out of Their Heads
It’s marketed as “a gateway into the sprawling and enigmatic omniverse of Marc Jacobs subversion,” and it delivers on its promise. Heaven by Marc Jacobs is an Internet cult phenomenon and a favourite among cool Gen Z kids.
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With collections that revolve around 90s subculture aesthetics, Sofia Coppola and Gregg Araki’s movies, grunge music, and Anna Sui vintage pieces, the brand has seen incredible success in the hands of a new generation of customers who embrace the zeitgeist of the era with a sense of ‘anemoia’—nostalgia for something they never experienced or were too young to remember.
Ava Nirui’s Reverse Mentorship
The LVMH-owned brand can be described as a fusion of ideas from Jacobs and Ava Nirui, an Australian designer renowned for crafting bootleg versions of designer clothing. She captured Jacobs’ attention by creating a Mark Jacobs rip-off version of one of his hoodies, leading to a collaboration offer. Nirui was hired on the spot and played a pivotal role in helping her mentor launch Heaven in mid-2020.
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Heaven originated from a blend of Nirui’s creative input and cultural references, as well as Jacobs’ remarkably successful career and reputation as a trailblazer for the grunge aesthetic in fashion.
A Fashion Sense Ahead of His Time
With a 40-year career, Marc Jacobs consistently brings his authentic style and creative ideas to the design realm.
From the very beginning, his talent was recognised and appreciated, achieving mass acclaim soon after presenting his BFA Fashion Design senior collection in 1984. In the same year, he won the Perry Ellis & Chester Weinberg Gold Thimble Award.
In 1987, he achieved the remarkable feat of becoming the youngest designer ever to receive the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Perry Ellis Award for New Fashion Talent.
In 1988, Jacobs joined the Perry Ellis women’s design unit as creative director/vice president. Unfortunately, he was laid off only a few years later due to his controversial spring-summer 1993 grunge collection. Ironically, he went on to win a CFDA Women’s Designer of the Year Award for that very same collection just a few months later.
Making Big Brands Bigger
In 1997, Jacobs became the Creative Director at Louis Vuitton, a position he held for 16 years. During his tenure, he curated the brand’s first-ever ready-to-wear collection, elevating it to the ranks of the world’s most valuable labels.
A pivotal moment in Jacobs’ illustrious career occurred with the introduction of the secondary line, Marc by Marc Jacobs, showcased in a spring 2001 runway show.
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More recently, Jacobs earned acclaim for his contribution to Fendi’s Resort 2023 collection. The collection was spotlighted at New York Fashion Week as the brand celebrated the 25th anniversary of its iconic Baguette Bag with collaborative elements from Tiffany & Co, Marc Jacobs, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Porter.
Today, the Marc Jacobs brand spans a diverse range of lines, encompassing perfumes, accessories, kidswear, and, notably, the collaborative sensation Heaven.
Heaven is a Place of Amaziness on Earth
The inspiration behind Heaven’s name traces back to Marc Jacobs and his “fashion family,” including Anna Sui, Louie Chaban, and the photographer Steven Meisel, who embraced the term as a stamp of approval. In an interview with Dazed, Marc expressed, “We always used the word ‘heaven’ to describe something we loved. If something was perfect or if someone looked amazing, you’d be like, she’s heaven. They’re heaven. It’s heaven. Heaven was it. It’s done, perfect.”
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The brand’s remarkable success indicates a shared vision between customers and Jacobs. However, this triumph is no coincidence; the brand’s vision, store aesthetics and carefully chosen materials all contribute to its desirability. At Heaven, they have understood how to communicate effectively with their customers and create a deep emotional connection.
Anna Sui, a prominent figure in the Heaven universe, believes, “There’s a soul that is very special [about the brand]. You want to be part of that club, not necessarily for reasons of luxury or prestige, but so that when you wear Heaven, you can use this cool vocabulary that helps you identify other cool people.”
The Success Behind the Line: Unveiling the Power of Great Icons and Pop-Nostalgia
Beyond aesthetics, Gen Z craves brands that mirror their values and inspirations. Heaven nails it by tapping into the pop-cultural nerve centre, featuring icons like Kate Moss, Pamela Anderson, Doja Cat, and Lil Uzi Vert – connecting deeply with the TikTok generation’s love for both pop icons and niche subcultures.
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Collaboration is Heaven’s secret ingredient. The inaugural launch showcased images and quotes from Gregg Araki’s world, the LGBT director behind the “Teenage Apocalypse Trilogy,” a series of three ‘90s movies exploring the struggles of teens and young adults in finding a sense of belonging. These films gained relevance in the Tumblr era of the 2010s, becoming ingrained in Gen Z’s cultural consciousness.
Heaven’s subsequent collections continued to explore Gen-Zers’ beloved themes, drawing inspiration from Sofia Coppola’s The Virgin Suicides and Hi-Octane. In February 2023, Heaven by Marc Jacobs unveiled a collaboration with Stray Rats, focusing on Deftones, an American alternative metal band, and celebrating their influential album “Around the Fur” in counter-culture.
Nirui believes the success is no accident. Gen Z’s obsession with the ‘90s aligns perfectly with Marc Jacobs’ core, creating a natural synergy. She once noted that “because of the trend cycle, Gen Z happens to be very interested in a lot of aesthetic, music, culture, films, and art that are at the core of the Marc Jacobs brand. The things that I was interested in as a 16-year-old, the 16-year-olds of today are very obsessive about. It wasn’t our purpose to reach Gen Z; it just naturally fell into place.”
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In a nutshell, Heaven knows what the kids want – and it’s not just fashion; it’s an anthem of their culture and a nod to their idols. That’s why last July, Blumarine joined the party, fusing “Heaven’s grungy, ‘90s-inspired aesthetic with Blumarine’s recently revamped look, one saturated with references to Y2K fashion and culture,” as noted by Dazed. The result? “It all looked very Mean Girls, if the movie’s popular protagonists also had emo boyfriends.”
Remixed Vintage as a Sustainable Twist for Gen Z
Heaven actively engages in breathing new life into vintage Marc Jacobs pieces, giving them a contemporary spin with subtle alterations. This touch of “antique” charm is not only evident in their physical boutiques – currently two, located in Los Angeles and London – but also extends to their sustainable practices.
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The stores feature a dedicated second-hand and vintage rack showcasing upcycled and reworked looks alongside original vintage niche designs. This sustainable commitment likely contributes to the brand’s resonance with the environmentally conscious younger generation.
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More than just retail spaces, the boutiques are thoughtfully designed as hubs for community engagement. With comfortable seating, magazines, and a special vintage section, they provide a cosy environment akin to a tiny living room where customers can spend quality time with friends. Additionally, the stores carry products from other brands like Stray Rats, Mowalola, and Ashley Williams.
In essence, since its debut, Heaven has become an “ever-evolving kaleidoscope of nostalgic pop-culture obsessions reimagined for future-shaping, binary-defying generations.”
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Jacobs and Nirui haven’t just created a fashion brand; they’ve curated a cultural hub specifically for Gen Z. The brand seamlessly intertwines purpose with aesthetics, targeting a distinct customer base. Alongside Jacobs’ distinguished background and unique vision, Heaven has undeniably carved its niche as a cult favourite among teens. Let’s not overlook Heaven amidst Jacobs’ myriad successes!
Ana Sophia Williams
MA in Fashion Promotion, Communication & Digital Media, Milan