A-MAZE-ING talk: Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri on dreams and Indian craft
Dior’s Fall 2023 show marked a monumental moment for the luxury fashion industry and India’s trajectory. The illuminating talk on ‘Indian Craft in the Global Fashion Industry’ between BOF’s CEO, Imran Amed, and Dior womenswear creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri at Istituto Marangoni Mumbai formed the perfect atmosphere for students to understand the nuances of the industry from renowned experts.
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Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative Director of Women’s collections at Dior since 2016, spoke with BoF’s Imran Amed at Istituto Marangoni in Mumbai
Students and industry players attending the Istituto Marangoni Mumbai event with Dior's Maria Grazia Chiuri
Driven by a strong vision and a coherent approach to fashion, Maria Grazia Chiuri made her lifelong dream come true by creating a collaborative fashion show in India.
The finale of the Dior Fall23 show held at the Gateway of India in Mumbai
During the panel, it brought Chiuri great happiness and joy to share and discuss the cultural commonalities she has always acknowledged between India and her home in Italy. The similarities included observing how different regions in both locations celebrate a unique voice of tradition and craftsmanship passed down for generations.
Dior's Maria Grazia Chiuri and BoF’s Imran Amed at Istituto Marangoni Mumbai
The event was also very personal, reminding Chiuri of her first trip to the country. She immediately fell in love with India’s cultural richness and how each region is unique and diverse. However, it surprised her to see how the industry then was male-dominated. While in Italy, it was the women who worked on this narrative. That inspired her to collaboratively develop a vision with the Chanakya School of Craft, which would empower female “Karigars” and provide them with the pride of ownership. This show was, in a small way, a tribute to that.
Furthering the collaboration between Dior's Maria Grazia Chiuri, Karishma Swali of Chanakya International, and the artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh, 'Cosmic Garden' is the name of an exhibition at the Chanakya School Of Craft cultural center in Mumbai. Curated by Maria Alicata and Paola Ugolini, works from the 1970s to the present day by these Indian artists are displayed alongside powerful needlework interpretations by the pioneering school's female students, who also contributed to the scenography of the Dior Fall 23 show (Photo: Gupta Niveditaa)
The recent collection showcased a blend of Dior’s signature style with Indian culture and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s personal touch. The designer drew inspiration from traditional saree silhouettes, which she believes was the first form of dress worn by humanity and also served as an essential reference for the draping techniques in Miss Dior’s designs.
One of the pieces specially produced for Maria Grazia Chiuri's Dior Fall 23 fashion show in Mumbai involved the use of an artisanal technique that traces its roots in India back millennia - block printing
The rich purple and Rani pink hues suggested by Karishma Swali, managing and creative director of Chanakya International and the Chanakya School of Craft, imbued the collection with a regal Indian flavour. The designer aimed to create a more contemporary and modern interpretation of the saree while paying tribute to the timeless Miss Dior draping. She said, “Fashion history is very important, even as a legacy for the future”, which is why the collection was an interpretation of India and Dior’s rich history and heritage.
“Fashion history is very important, even as a legacy for the future” – Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative Director of Women’s collections at Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Karishma Swali
Maria Grazia Chiuri then expressed her thoughts about the extraordinary design process in India, which she sees as captivating for the century-old connections between artisans, traditions, and textiles. From the fabrics to their embellishments, the techniques and elements used to make these designs are so much more than just decorative, as Chiuri pointed out, celebrating the beauty of creating something extremely modern with ancient techniques. “The embroidery can define the volume, construction and silhouette. It’s something you can create to inspire and make an impact”, she stated.
Looks from Maria Grazia Chiuri's Dior Fall 23 collection, shot before the majestic Gateway of India in Mumbai
When BOF’s Imran Amed asked why she chose to work in India – and with India – transparently, Maria Grazia Chiuri replied that this has never been a challenging task for Dior but rather an essential requirement for the brand.
Dior's Maria Grazia Chiuri at Istituto Marangoni Mumbai
Chiuri acknowledged the increasing need for transparency in today’s industry to create an environment that strives to benefit artisan communities and fosters new and engaging collaborative ventures. She then listed the differences and similarities between French, Indian and Italian fashion systems. Their similarities bring these systems culturally together and provide the unique opportunity of creating timeless, sophisticated pieces that celebrate the essence of craftsmanship. This creative space also supports experimenting with different materials and embroidery using elaborate references and traditional processes.
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Chiuri consistently lauded her collaboration and friendship with Karishma Swali and her team, who have been by her side since 1992, for their unwavering assistance and diligent efforts, which made the show a marvel deserving of praise and acclaim.
At the Chanakya School of Craft's cultural center in Mumbai, the 'Cosmic Garden' exhibition highlights the fertile exchange between artists Madhvi and Manu Parekh and the school's students, who also contributed to the unveiling of Dior Fall 23 by Maria Grazia Chiuri (Photo: Gupta Niveditaa)
In addition, she emphasised that her collaboration with the Chanakya ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai has resulted in a formidable creative force, pointing to the strength of their collective talent and expertise. “For me, the artisans are supreme. It’s not about the execution; they co-create,” she said. Expressing gratitude for the strong bond of understanding and cooperation, she shared with her team and stressed the importance of fostering meaningful relationships with others.
“For me, the artisans are supreme. It’s not about the execution; they co-create” – Maria Grazia Chiuri
Maria Grazia Chiuri also explained her vision of collaborating with the Chanakya School of Craft, emphasising the mission of empowering women and highlighting Dior’s continued role as a formidable influence in fashion.
Details from Maria Grazia Chiuri's Dior Fall 23 fashion show at the Gateway of India in Mumbai
When queried about feminism, Chiuri responded that, in her opinion, feminism is an ideology centred around creativity rather than physical appearance or body type. This concept has long been woven into Dior’s heritage. While on feminism, when asked for advice on how to make one’s way into a structurally male-dominated space, her gallant response was, “We, in any case, have to work hard, but such projects empower us as a community.”
“Creativity is about empowering and self-expression, not about being a famous artist with a well-established atelier” – Maria Grazia Chiuri
As a successful designer and creative director, she believes creativity is critical because it makes you uniquely open-minded. She then stated, “I like to do everything with my own hands. Now there are computers and Artificial Intelligence that can design for you, but that’s not real art for me.”
Students from Istituto Marangoni in Mumbai with Dior's Maria Grazia Chiuri
Concluding the panel discussion, her advice to young aspiring fashion designers was to cultivate their passions and push them to see themselves differently rather than become infatuated with big and established brands.
Anusha Dhiman, Alisha Khatri, Stuti Jain and Achintya Acharya
Fashion Business students, 2nd year, Mumbai