Valentino’s new creative director discussed the book he wrote with Emanuele Coccia. Here, he shares six current reflections on fashion (and philosophy).
Have you ever thought about the deep meaning of a dress in our daily lives? Perhaps it’s just a mere, ancestral way to cover our bodies, a temporary pursuit of sensory pleasure, or maybe a means for significant change, where each garment becomes a new layer of identity. At its core lies the essence of freedom—the freedom to shape our own story, to transform into a second, third or even fourth version of ourselves.
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This concept is central to the philosophy of reincarnation, which is at the heart of the discourse of the latest highly-discussed book in the luxury world. Despite Gucci’s former designer Alessandro Michele, preparing for his official comeback in September with his inaugural catwalk collection as the new creative director of Valentino, his return to the fashion spotlight was foreshadowed by his collaboration with philosopher and professor Emanuele Coccia, from the École des Hautes Études en Sciences Sociales in Paris, on a book. The book, titled “The Life of Forms—Theory of the Re-enchantment,” published by HarperCollins, explores the metaphysical connection between fashion and philosophy. An English translation is scheduled for Fall 2025. We learned about this collaboration as they unveiled their work at Milan’s Teatro Franco Parenti, marking Michele’s first public appearance since leaving Gucci in 2022.
“In the book that I wrote with Emanuele [Coccia], philosophical and worldly discussions are intertwined” – Alessandro Michele, creative director at Valentino
Crafted through a lasting conversation spanning the cultural landscapes of Rome and Paris, “La vita delle forme. Filosofia del reincanto”—as stated by the two authors— “is the result of an ongoing dialogue that we have woven for a long time. Within its pages, philosophical and worldly discussions are intertwined.”
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This book was born during the lockdown era when dormant aspects seemed to radiate with heightened significance. It unveils a mutual psychoanalysis between philosophy and fashion: an enigmatic beauty narrated through a cryptic lexicon.
“Fashion is a volitional bifurcation of our persona; it embodies both Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde simultaneously” – Alessandro Michele
Fashion emerges as a dualistic entity. “It embodies both Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde simultaneously, a volitional bifurcation of our persona, an act of metamorphosis through ever-changing forms,” stated Michele.
According to Alessandro Michele, wrapping oneself in a garment goes beyond just covering the body; it offers a deep way to express our identity, interwoven with the very fabrics and colours of the clothes we wear. This elevates fashion to a transformative art form, like a shamanic ritual, an epiphany of fragmented life experiences—a kinetic fashion: an ever-existing and constantly evolving form of expression.
Taking this idea further, the creative director shines a biographical spotlight on the fashion ecosystem, challenging the stereotypes of consumerist capitalism and embracing the tenets of progressive capitalism.
“Dresses act as a Trojan horse, permeating the essence of each individual, irrespective of gender, culture, or religious creed” – Alessandro Michele
The dress goes beyond its materiality, becoming an artefact of everyday life, subtly weaving itself into people’s lives—”Like a Trojan horse, permeating the essence of each individual, irrespective of gender, culture, or religious creed.”
Fashion is not just about what you wear; it represents your identity, a form of unique self-expression in which each person interprets the garment with individuality and freedom.
“Fashion is a peculiar beast, nourished by a myriad of influences, from collective ideals to the enigma of individuality” – Alessandro Michele
As Alessandro Michele eloquently stated—”Fashion is an organic force, intimately intertwined with our daily lives. It is a peculiar beast, nourished by a myriad of influences, from collective ideals to the enigma of individuality. It compels us all to become spectators of garments, peering into the lives of others, uncovering their secrets.”
“I don’t see myself as a designer; I’m a creator of pret-à-porter selves” – Alessandro Michele
Alessandro Michele, therefore, avoids the title of “designer” and prefers to see himself as a creator of “pret-à-porter selves.” These creations offer others new and coveted lives, albeit fleeting and transient, allowing them to depart from their biological confines to embrace their true selves.
“Fashion is a philosophy that, through the shapes, colours, and textures of the world, allows bodies to transcend, becoming a realm for introspection and the hands-on transformation of oneself” – Alessandro Michele
Thus, fashion becomes a transformative force, embodying the most intimate aspects of existence—”An art simultaneously ancient and modern, bridging form and life. A philosophy that, through the shapes, colours, and textures of the world, allows bodies to transcend, becoming a realm for introspection and the hands-on transformation of oneself.”
Overall, this book is both informative and thought-provoking, perfect for summer reading! Just be prepared to have some patience and be open to reading certain passages multiple times to fully grasp their meaning. The complex and philosophical language might pose a challenge to the bravest readers, but if you manage to pull it off, you can consider yourselves true fashion philosophers!
Diletta Moschella
MA in Fashion Promotion, Communication & Digital Media, Milan