As Olivier Rousteing swept into the room, students couldn’t help but marvel at his impeccable style. “Have you seen that coat?” they whispered in awe, admiring its bouclé faux fur and oversized silhouette.
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Since taking the helm as Creative Director of Balmain in 2009, Rousteing has become a symbol of elegance, setting trends for others to follow. But for Gen Z, he transcends mere couturier status – he’s a true style icon. At Istituto Marangoni Paris, some students were fortunate enough to meet him, and they found in him not just a fashion designer but also a source of inspiration.
Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director of Balmain, at Istituto Marangoni Paris
The event at Istituto Marangoni Paris wasn’t your run-of-the-mill school gathering; it was a window into Rousteing’s journey, an emotional exchange, and a treasure trove of wisdom for aspiring fashion professionals. Olivier Rousteing candidly shared his story and imparted invaluable life lessons along the way.
Here, we’ve curated his most compelling quotes from the designer himself for you to immerse yourself in the world of Olivier Rousteing in his own words.
The Genesis of Passion
“Why fashion? When I was young, a late-night TV programme introduced me to a Chanel fashion show. Since then, I’ve been obsessed” – Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director at Balmain
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Crafting Identity
“When you work in a fashion house, respect its codes but maintain your personality. It’s like a love affair” – Olivier Rousteing
The designer explained, “When you start working in a fashion house, you need to respect its codes. You begin by understanding the house, its legacy, and the team. It’s like a love affair: sometimes you wake up in the morning and love your boyfriend or girlfriend, and sometimes it’s more difficult. Once the dialogue is established, you must not lose your personality. Day by day, you start to grow and become more yourself. It takes time and involves a lot of fights. But eventually, you know that your DNA is formed, and at this point, you develop it step by step.”
At Istituto Marangoni Paris, students had the opportunity to meet Balmain's Olivier Rousteing
From Pierre to Olivier: Honoring the Legacy
“I’m obsessed with Pierre Balmain. His legacy, his relationship with his muses, and the way he built what we now call the Balmain Army deeply inspire me” – Olivier Rousteing
When asked about the founder, Rousteing answered, “I’m obsessed with Pierre Balmain; I try to talk to him as much as I can, but it’s obviously a monologue because I have no answer (he passed away in 1982, ed.). His house was built in 1945, right after the second war. They didn’t have fabrics or leather. It was so hard for him. So, I really have a lot of respect. I went through some challenges too, obviously not the same as Pierre Balmain. He built what we now call the Balmain Army a long time before me. He was close to Joséphine Baker, Dalida, Brigitte Bardot, Audrey Hepburn, Queen Sirikit of Thailand. He shaped the image of his own woman; he had his muses like me today with Beyoncé, Kim (Kardashian), Claudia (Schiffer), and all the girls that I dress. So, I think we’re really close in that sense. The difference? His silhouette was a bit long while I cut everything and went short.”
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Pop Culture Savvy
“I aim to witness my time. Embrace your pop culture, don’t fear it” – Olivier Rousteing
“I want to be the witness of my time,” continued the creative soul. “You need to know how to communicate with the new generation. It can be challenging when you are in a house built in 1945 with a strong legacy. Pop culture is all about raising awareness of a brand. So, I give you my vision: don’t be afraid of your pop culture or your own culture. There are always older people who might reprimand you and make you feel too young. But remain a witness of your age.”
Olivier Rousteing with students and Massimo Casagrande (Programme Leader at Istituto Marangoni Paris)
Social Media Revolution
“I posted my first selfie despite opposition. For me, an online presence has always symbolised the future; it’s about pushing boundaries” – Olivier Rousteing
Then, the talent with a sharp eye for social media shared, “Years ago, when I started, I posted my first selfie. One of the managers from the board objected, saying, ‘This is not luxury. You cannot be on social media.’ I distinctly recall my response: ‘Our e-commerce will be our flagship store in the world. So, wait and see. And if I’m wrong, you can fire me in five years.’ Eventually, they grasped that this was a vision for the future. However, as with any new vision, it requires persistence.”
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The Creative Drive
“I love sketching. Passion fuels my work; I don’t count the hours” – Olivier Rousteing
“I love sketching so much,” commented Rousteing. “I’m a workaholic; I can spend the entire night sketching by hand, but I also love working on Photoshop. This is my passion. I start with this, then move to 3D on my mannequins, and finally, I love to share everything with my team. We brainstorm together and build the collection. When it’s your passion, you can work day and night. You don’t even count the hours.”
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The Essence of Couture
“Balmain is about couture, craftsmanship, and longevity. So, I want to present myself as a couturier” – Olivier Rousteing
The designer explained, “Balmain is a couture house. So, as a form of respect, I want to present myself as a couturier. I don’t just want to be someone trendy. I’d rather be someone timeless. And it’s obviously a big challenge to ensure that your work endures. It’s really hard. The sense of couture and craftsmanship are key to lasting in time. You can create a great T-shirt, the most incredible sneakers, the best jeans – we all love that, but craftsmanship will stay forever. And that’s why I’ve pushed it so much.”
Olivier Rousteing at Istituto Marangoni Paris
Fashion Show Philosophy
“The fashion show must evoke emotion. But it’s about depth, not just bling” – Olivier Rousteing
“The fashion show must evoke emotion,” emphasised the Balmain Creative Director. “I conceived the Balmain Festival to embrace a wider audience, drawing nearly 30,000 people to a stadium. However, I came to realise that amidst the ‘bling,’ the craftsmanship of Balmain was being overlooked. Consequently, I scaled down the event to just 300 guests. Initially, my decision was met with resistance from my president, but I explained that while it was beneficial to showcase our shows to a large audience, it was now imperative to delve deeper. I wanted people to engage more profoundly with the essence of the house. When it’s too ‘shiny,’ you don’t see the depth in it, and people would just say, ‘Oh, it’s so bling, or it’s too glam.’ There’s so much work in the collections that I decided to cancel the fireworks and focus on the incredible savoir-faire of the house.”
Balmain’s Heartbeat
“My heart belongs to Balmain” – Olivier Rousteing
Rousteing elaborated, “So many fashion houses are changing their designers, and many designers aspire to leave their current positions. For me, there’s something inherently beautiful about not constantly changing houses every few years. I enjoyed my time working for Jean-Paul Gaultier for a season (Since 2021, Jean-Paul Gaultier’s house has been inviting guest designers to reinterpret the enfant terrible’s signature style. In July 2022, Balmain’s creative director, Olivier Rousteing, took the reins, ed.), experiencing a different approach and team; but to paraphrase a song Marilyn Monroe used to sing, ‘My heart belongs to Balmain.’ Longevity, to me, is about connection, friendship, loyalty, and dedication – akin to a marriage. You never know when a separation might occur. But for now, I’m happy; every season feels like a honeymoon.”
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Inclusive Future
“Inclusivity is crucial. Let’s build a better world for the next generation” – Olivier Rousteing
“For years, I’ve been advocating for inclusivity, and I’m proud of the progress we’ve made,” he said. “Initially, many in the fashion industry didn’t believe in it at all. However, they eventually recognised the importance of inclusivity. The next phase is to genuinely believe in taking action rather than just pretending. My hope is that you, the younger generations, won’t have to endure the struggles we faced. I want to ensure that you don’t face the same mistakes of the past. What we’re building is for all of you, guys.”
Olivier Rousteing taking photos with students at Istituto Marangoni Paris
Persistence and Pride
“Be proud, persevere, and remember, the sun always shines after a storm” – Olivier Rousteing
The designer shared, “Based on my experience, there are three pieces of advice I’d give to young fashion students: Be proud of who you are; don’t give up, even when you feel down, continue to push and fight; and always remember, after a storm, the sun will shine again.”
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Balmain x H&M Collaboration Revelation
“H&M collaboration showed me we build a universe, not just clothes” – Olivier Rousteing
“I was truly amazed to witness people screaming and camping out in front of H&M stores worldwide when the Balmain x H&M collaboration launched in 2015,” he stated. “We never anticipated such immense success, and I can honestly say that it was at that moment I realised we aren’t merely creating clothes; we are crafting an entire universe. It was a profoundly impactful memory for me.”
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Freedom Defines Luxury
“My definition of luxury is freedom” – Olivier Rousteing
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Quiet Luxury or Loud Luxury?
“Luxury trends come and go, but being yourself is timeless” – Olivier Rousteing
“Today, we’re seeing a trend toward quiet luxury,” observed Rousteing. “But in two years, we’ll likely witness a return to loud luxury, with logos prominently displayed once more; it’s a cycle. While I may lean towards maximalism, what matters most is staying true to myself.”
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Purpose in Life
“My purpose? To change things so that you can have a better world” – Olivier Rousteing
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Golden Advice
“Suzy Menkes once said, ‘Stay true to yourself.’ Be authentic, be free” – Olivier Rousteing
Olivier Rousteing reflected, “Suzy Menkes once asked me, ‘Why are you so nervous?’ It was 2014, right before a show that Rihanna was set to attend, and I was anxious because I was in the process of building our Balmain Army. I knew it marked a pivotal moment in my career: I was unapologetically being myself, reshaping my vision and that of the house. In the past, I had been the perfect student, adhering to the rules and norms dictated by the fashion industry. But Suzy Menkes said to me, ‘True happiness is discovered when you stay authentically yourself and maintain unwavering faith in who you are.’ I want to pass on her advice to you. It’s not easy in a world where everyone tries to mould you to fit a certain image. However, the moment you discover your true self, build your DNA and embrace your unique identity without pretending to be someone else, it’s liberating. This, to me, is the best advice I’ve received: Just be yourself.”
Olivier Rousteing with Paolo Meroni (School Director) and Adi Maoz-Cohen (Director of Education) at Istituto Marangoni Paris
Silvia Manzoni
Journalist, Paris