Whether by subverting our idea of texture or by placing models’ hands in exaggerated pockets, vivisecting the ordinary sense of objects and gestures to establish a sense of the extraordinary is what a creative, pure soul does best, and it’s what Jonathan Anderson vividly brings to life through a narrative that transcends clothes and often, fashion itself.
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Jonathan Anderson’s creative direction at Loewe seamlessly combines menswear and womenswear of the LVMH-owned brand. The designer consistently adopts a genderless approach that has guided his vision since the first runway show, infusing his creations with a constant sense of avant-garde originality. This approach establishes a narrative thread that enables viewers to witness multiple chapters of the same story.
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Indeed, the Fall-Winter 2024/25 menswear show embodied the essence of ‘collage realness,’ drawing inspiration from Richard Hawkins’ pop-hued creations that provoke through contrast.
Here, an annoyed attitude is almost worn as an adornment to stiff, boxy outerwear, sporty trousers paired with unmatched sweaters, or pieces deliberately worn in unconventional ways along with oversized neck bows. These elements, symbolising a break from the confines of the stereotypical masculine wardrobe, demonstrate Anderson’s skill in pairing items that traditionally wouldn’t belong together, a theme that persists throughout the womenswear collection.
Gifted with eclectic modernity, Jonathan Anderson continues to blend art and fashion through Loewe’s Fall-Winter 2024/25 womenswear collection. Here, the designer draws inspiration from artist Albert York’s vision, transforming the venue into a Garden of Eden. This serves as a metaphor for the gratitude we should all feel for our planet, which is considered the only Paradise we will ever know.
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Let’s take a moment to focus on the art featured in the latest Loewe show. Albert York (1928–2009), who was hailed as “the most highly admired unknown artist in America,” created some of the most subtly transcendent works depicting everyday subjects such as small landscape and domestic scenes. Notably, his pieces were coveted by collectors such as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Edward Gorey.
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By playing with what society calls contradictions, Jonathan Anderson’s latest women’s collection for Loewe explores and combines the garment construction techniques of couture, typically associated with women, and tailoring, traditionally associated with men. This results in a wardrobe ranging from flowing silhouettes and soft lines, as seen in floor-length high-neck sleeveless dresses, to tailcoats, long coats, and blazers. Revers act as a blank canvas for texture experimentations. Additionally, Anderson incorporates flower and vegetable prints, balloon-y pants, and shearling jackets. Yet, there are further revelations to uncover about this runway presentation.
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Anderson’s obsession with often overlooked details, such as enlarged pockets and belts, deconstructed and scaled up in size, illustrates his uniqueness and wit in sartorial construction. Constantly highlighting these elements within the composition of looks showcases his departure from conventionality.
Tartan patterns, zoomed in and rendered in layers of chiffon, create a 3D textural effect, giving the illusion of the print coming to life.
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Floral tapestry evokes a domestic feel, reflecting a key concept in Jonathan Anderson’s design philosophy: preserving childhood fantasies. This perception of garments and objects is further reflected in his reflective yet spontaneous approach to fashion. He distances himself from market validation and commercial appeal, which are often prioritised by the industry, and instead embraces experimentation, a truly essential aspect of fashion. That’s why Loewe by Jonathan Anderson stands as the ultimate brand to watch and ignite inspiration. With Anderson reigning effortlessly at the pinnacle of his craft, as acclaimed by Vogue’s Sarah Mower, there’s no denying his status as the definitive designer of our era.
Nicole Giulianini
Fashion Business alumna