At London’s latest exhibit, we met fresh designers tackling waste, reimagining ancient crafts, pushing boundaries, and integrating AI into their work
Can fashion perspectives truly reshape our world? This question is both urgent and complex, yet the evolving landscape unmistakably signals a paradigm shift driven by fresh designers who transcend (geographic) boundaries and engage in critical debates through their collections.
In essence, emerging designers are pivotal figures who bring diverse international perspectives to fashion and boldly address industry challenges head-on.
Highlighting the research of Istituto Marangoni London’s MA Fashion Design graduates of 2024, the exhibition “Diverse Fashion Perspectives” champions styles that combat waste, revive traditional crafts, critique colonial legacies, and integrate AI into design processes.
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This showcase charts new territory by presenting a diverse array of viewpoints as students pose critical questions and respond with impactful global fashion statements. Moreover, these up-and-coming designers make the most of their heritage and contemporary fashion design to weave together personal experiences and cultural backgrounds, creating powerful narratives.
Curious to learn more about the talent we’re talking about? Read on, we’ve got you covered.
When Ancient Indian Crafts Embrace Contemporary Subtle Minimalism
Redefining the true meaning of luxury is what fashion is all about, according to Arushi Shrivastava. From India, she inherited the significance of craftsmanship and material quality, aiming for contemporary design enriched with luxurious, subtle minimalism. Shrivastava knew that understanding consumer psychology towards luxury was essential, so she forged a new luxury concept using fine Indian handmade silk and luxurious craftsmanship to accomplish a stylish, minimalist design.
Design by Arushi Shrivastava
Photo by Mattia Maestri
Stylist: Venetta Florentina
Bridging Morocco’s Traditions with London’s Sub-Culture
A genderless design that speaks about freedom is the essential style statement for Yousra Lebbar as she transitions from Morocco’s fashion traditions to London’s sub-culture. “Don’t Look Down” merges professional attire with extreme sportswear, reflecting on societal norms, self-image, and gender criticism related to historical clothing restrictions on women’s clothing. The incorporation of mountaineering gear elements pays tribute to the women who challenged societal norms by climbing in skirts, redefining gender boundaries and advocating for inclusivity and historical recognition.
Design by Yousra Lebbar
Photo by Mattia Maestri
Stylist: Venetta Florentina
Addressing Fashion Overconsumption in Chile’s Atacama Desert with Sustainable Solutions
Cindy Morales Elgueta highlights the catastrophic impact of fashion overconsumption in Chile in the Atacama Desert. She believes that the solution lies in holding producers accountable and implementing policies in the region. She created a collection that embodies sustainable fashion principles and methods, including upcycling, zero waste pattern making, waste management strategies and industry collaboration, with the goal of designing for longevity. Her collection serves as evidence that making a significant impact on sustainable fashion is possible, and it sets an example for others to follow.
Design by Cindy Morales Elgueta
Photo by Mattia Maestri
Stylist: Venetta Florentina
India Inspires New Repair Practices and Circular Business Models
With the same goals, Aditi Vaghela aims to minimise environmental impact by bringing the practice of Indigenous crafts from India. The “A Repair Story” collection promotes a repair practice to ensure wearable longevity and proposes an alternative circular business model. Vaghela introduces the concept of imperfect design that can facilitate continuous garment repair.
Design by Aditi Vaghela
Photo by Mattia Maestri
Stylist: Venetta Florentina
A Respectful Intersection: Fashion and Spirituality Intertwined
Tasha Zafar’s ethical approach to design addresses the debate of fashion overconsumption, navigating the challenges of commercialisation and cultural appropriation. Zafar’s collection blends Southeast Asia religious culture into textiles by translating motifs or symbols from her Indo-Islamic heritage into contemporary design. Through this, she opens the intricate intersection of fashion and spirituality, promoting a thoughtful and respectful approach to fashion.
How can innovation lead to diverse fashion design aesthetics?
Design by Tasha Zafar
Photo by Mattia Maestri
Stylist: Venetta Florentina
Liberating Design Through Optical Effects
Yuetong Liu’s “PerceptiLux Collection” seeks to redefine traditional apparel through innovative optical effects with the goal of diversifying and liberating design. Inspired by Op Art and emerging technologies, Liu creates an experimental fashion aesthetic featuring optical illusion patterns that are achieved through digital printing and laser cutting. The result is unique, three-dimensional garments that redefine the traditional confines of apparel.
Design by Yuetong Liu
Photo by Mattia Maestri
Stylist: Venetta Florentina
Promoting Inclusivity and Diversity While Challenging Fast Fashion’s Exploitation
Shreya Matta’s “Don’t Believe Everything You Think” collection challenges cultural conventions and promotes positive social change by addressing the concept of identity formation in fashion. Matta incorporates Indian handcrafts and block printing textiles in her garments to support inclusivity and ethnic diversity while also questioning the exploitative nature of fast fashion.
Design by Shreya Matta
Photo by Mattia Maestri
Stylist: Venetta Florentina
Seeking Freedom by Challenging Chinese Societal Wedding Expectations
The “Escape from Wedding” collection by Jiaxin Ding creates a fashion statement that goes beyond just clothing. This collection serves as a commentary on cultural and social norms and an artistic expression of her quest for freedom. By challenging societal expectations in China, Ding reimagines traditional wedding dress elements as symbols of societal pressures. Bold blood-red floral print pants embody the rebellious spirit and emotions of a bride seeking liberation.
Design by Jiaxin Ding
Photo by Mattia Maestri
Stylist: Venetta Florentina
Honouring Traditional Chinese Calligraphy in Responsible Fashion
Yiting Pei creates garments that blend modern trends with cultural heritage, combining classic and contemporary styles to harmonise beauty and functionality. “The Art of Five Elements” collection pays homage to traditional Chinese calligraphy and landscape painting, serving as a culturally rich inspiration for incorporating intangible heritage into design. The innovation lies in crafting garments using handwoven Chinese fabrics to create environmentally conscious and sustainable fashion pieces.
Design by Yiting Pei
Photo by Mattia Maestri
Stylist: Venetta Florentina
A Healing Journey Through Fashion: Exploring Human Emotions
Min Hua developed a collection that explores the use of fashion as a form of art therapy and examines how clothing, textiles, and colour affect human emotions. With her experience in garment design techniques, Hua worked on emotive garments to weave a narrative of suffering and healing. The design seeks to empower women, guiding them through a therapeutic exploration of their mental health journey through fashion.
Design by Min Hua
Photo by Mattia Maestri
Stylist: Venetta Florentina
Silvia De Vecchi
University Librarian, London