What if the new gen of fashion designers leads the evolution of fragrances?
Top fashion designers are increasingly interested in perfumes as more and more brands are adding fragrances to their collections. Experts confirmed this at a round table organised by Istituto Marangoni Paris on the theme “From the designer’s atelier to the perfumer’s: how can fashion redefine the contours of olfactory creativity?”
The round table organised by Istituto Marangoni Paris to mark the opening of the Rives de la Beauté international event in the French capital. From left to right, experts Wouter Wiels, Silvia Manzoni, Damien Rousseaux, Susanna Nicoletti and IM alumnus Luciano Piunti
Opening the Rives de la Beauté international event in the French capital, the conference featured guests such as Damien Rousseaux, Senior Key Account Manager of Fine Fragrance at Symrise, one of the world’s top suppliers in the F&F market; Susanna Nicoletti, luxury and fashion top executive and professor at Istituto Marangoni Paris; Luciano Piunti, IM alumnus and winner of the Best Fashion Designer of the Year 2023, who created a fragrance with acclaimed perfumier Maurice Roucel; and Wouter Wiels, founder of Rives de la Beauté and trend-setter specialising in beauty.
Guests at the talk organised by Istituto Marangoni in Paris had the opportunity to enjoy a unique experience, while participating in a debate on how fashion can redefine the contours of olfactory creativity
The worlds of fashion and perfume are now more connected than ever before. Istituto Marangoni has emerged as a pioneer by launching the first comprehensive international programme in fragrance & cosmetics management education in Milan, Florence and Paris. In fact, the fragrance and luxury industries today share the same values, which reflect those of our society in search of authenticity and eco-responsibility.
Gen Z's influence on the fragrance market is profound, driving changes that prioritise sustainability, transparency and individuality
“A social demand for transparency and sustainability is changing the equation of consumer loyalty to perfumes,” said Damien Rousseaux. “The fragrance offering is going back to its roots; everything today is about creation, which stems from a clear and simple aim and is embodied in fine, high-quality ingredients.”
This return to the basics in perfumery goes hand in hand with the search for an olfactory brand identity, as Susanna Nicoletti pointed out, “which is being challenged by the turnover of creative directors in the big fashion houses, but needs to prove that it can take on courageous projects.”
While big brands are still cautiously venturing into bolder olfactory terrain, “there are niche brands leading the way and launching truly innovative concepts,” as recalled by Wouter Wiels.
Look from the graduate collection by Luciano Piunti, an alumnus of Istituto Marangoni in Paris
Emerging young designers, however, seem to be able to inspire avant-garde projects, as shown by Istituto Marangoni Paris alumnus Luciano Piunti. “I can remember when I had the opportunity to work alongside Maurice Roucel for my graduate collection. We inspired each other as he gave a very powerful olfactory interpretation of my collection, with sensual notes, and I added even more feminine details to my wardrobe to go in the same direction.”
This scenario seems to pave the way for experimentation in olfactory creation. With their visionary curiosity, upcoming creatives and fashion designers can chart a new course for the sense of smell, creating a kaleidoscope of scents that will resonate with the next generation and beyond.
Silvia Manzoni
Journalist and Beauty Expert