Breaking rules to establish new ones: while romanticising rebellion in fashion is seductive, it risks becoming a limiting view of innovation
Is dissent the only catalyst for creativity? Should fashion designers embody a rebellious spirit, infusing their work with a certain indiscipline that enhances their talent? These questions arose from the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation, which brought together researchers and thinkers in Paris for the presentation of “La Mode comme indiscipline.”
With a title translatable as “Fashion as Indiscipline,” this book is a collaborative effort that captures the essence of the symposium of the same name organised by the École des arts décoratifs and the École Duperré at the Château de Cerisy-la-Salle in 2021. Published by B42 and edited by Mathieu Buard, Céline Mallet, and Aurélie Mosse, it features contributions from researchers, philosophers, designers, performing artists, collectors, and artistic directors such as Samuel Bardaji, Odile Blanc, Guillaume Blanc-Marianne, Claire Brunet, Cyril Cabellos, Olivier Châtenet, Emanuele Coccia, Colette Depeyre, Rebecca Earley, and Laetit.
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All of these distinguished figures reflect on fashion as an evolving movement that both mirrors and challenges society, defining the “current state of thinking on, by and for fashion.” The four main themes explored are the creation of styles, balancing clichés and emancipation; forms of fashion conservation; the relationship between the industry and the market; and current creative processes, viewed through the lens of ecology and resilience.
Do I Have to Be a Rebel to Make It in Fashion?
As I listened to several of those professionals present their collaborative work at the Alaïa Foundation, some unresolved questions began to swirl in my mind. In an industry where extravagance often clamours for attention, one question lingers: is undiscipline a necessary trait for achieving success in fashion?
Ah, fashion—an industry where normality is often considered passé—has a peculiar knack for attracting rebellious artists eager to alter the rules of the game. It’s fair to say that many creators have frequently managed to carve out a name and identity for themselves primarily through their indiscipline and unconventional visions.
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Let’s face it: the world of fashion is full of incredible rule-breakers who have achieved great success, from Alexander McQueen to Vivienne Westwood, not to mention the Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo. These influential figures have demonstrated that defying traditional standards and going beyond the status quo can lead to groundbreaking changes that reveal new and meaningful perspectives. However, does success exclusively belong to those who challenge the norm?
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What If Indiscipline Has Become the New Norm?
Herein lies the paradox. In a world where everyone strives to be different, rebelling has ironically become the new norm—an attitude one must adopt to be considered a respectable creative.
Moreover, we have become so convinced that lack of discipline is the only driving force behind a fashion designer’s work that we fail to consider that, on the contrary, disciplined individuals—those who quietly perfect their craft—might be the ones shaping new paths today.
Let’s consider this perspective: in an unstable geopolitical landscape, embracing certain methods may offer a way to challenge the current chaos. Additionally, opting for structure in an industry that has so far glamourised and celebrated creative disorder is, paradoxically, an act of rebellion against the system.
Trust Rickie Lee Jones and Albert Einstein: You Must Learn the Existing Rules of the Game
And that’s not all. As the Grammy-winning singer-songwriter Rickie Lee Jones once remarked, “You can’t break the rules until you know how to play the game.”
Albert Einstein would likely agree with this sentiment. Having revolutionised our understanding of space, time, and gravity, he, too, recognised the necessity of mastering the rules before innovating. The Nobel laureate in Physics in 1921 often advised: “You have to learn the rules of the game. And then you have to play better than anyone else.”
Should I Swap My Morning Latte for Champagne to Become the Next Respected Fashion Designer?
Before you consider throwing your planner out the window and swapping your morning latte for champagne, remember the importance of balance.
While daring is essential for sparking creativity, discipline ensures that these ideas are grounded, ultimately leading to tangible results.
Understanding the rules—such as those concerning fabrics, pattern-making, sewing techniques, and the norms that characterise different fashion eras—is the only real way to challenge them.
All in all, do you really need to be a little undisciplined to make it in fashion? Perhaps just a bit. But when you feel like a hurricane, take a moment to slow down and organise the storm inside you. It’s the balancing act between discipline and indiscipline that can elevate you to new heights and bring some coherence to the madness. Even the biggest revolutions need a bit of planning!
Mia Shehade
Fashion Business, 2nd Year, Paris