A TikToker, a niche perfumer, and a Coty manager debunk conventions and imagine an emotion-driven, tech-savvy future for artistic fragrances
For years, niche fragrances have maintained an aura of exclusivity, deliberately distancing themselves from mainstream scents and adhering to traditional forms of communication—far removed from social media and its direct, engaging approach to potential consumers. After all, this strategy has aligned perfectly with the purpose and positioning of these niche houses within the fragrance industry.
Niche brands create artisanal scents crafted by master perfumers using the finest, often rare, raw materials. These fragrances are produced in smaller batches than designer or celebrity fragrances and come with a higher price tag; their success relies heavily on their air of inaccessibility—being less ubiquitous, more elusive, and designed for a select, discerning clientele. In this context, remaining obscure to the broader public has never been a drawback; rather, it enhances their allure among their intended audience.
Meo Fusciuni (Perfumer and Founder of his eponymous brand of “emotional scents”), SSSINISTER (the TikTok handle of Matilda Morri, a Fragrance Expert, Content Creator, and Writer), and Viviana Barker-Hemings (Marketing Director of Coty Italia Prestige Brands) at Istituto Marangoni Milano
In recent years, however, a wave of creators has emerged, harnessing social media—TikTok in particular—to introduce the world of fragrance, including niche perfumery, to an ever-growing audience. As a result, younger generations—Gen Z and Gen Alpha, the first to be born entirely in the 21st century—now count themselves among the most engaged and curious admirers of haute perfumery. While niche brands may not have spearheaded this discovery, it is the consumers themselves, guided by their favourite digital tastemakers, who have found their way to these once-guarded olfactory worlds.
Now that the game has changed, the niche fragrance industry faces a crossroads: should it embrace the unexpected popularity it has gained through social media or retreat into its ivory tower? As we have seen across numerous industries, the rise of social media dynamics and emerging technologies—particularly artificial intelligence—has created a clear divide. On one side are the traditionalists, who are dedicated to preserving the exclusivity and artisanal craftsmanship that defines luxury. On the other are the disruptors, who view these innovations as opportunities to enhance brand awareness and engage with younger consumers—an increasingly influential target, even for those who aim to remain niche.
@sssinister_ Tutta la collezione Les Éternels de @balmainbeauty secondo me è da approfondire: per chi se lo stesse chiedendo al momento la potete trovare in esclusiva presso gli store di Rinascente Roma Tritone e di Rinascente Milano Duomo. Vi consiglio di annusare molto attentamente in particolare Sel d’Ambre e Rouge per quanto riguarda le nuove proposte e Ivoire e Vent Vert per (ri)scoprire dei gioielli della storia della profumeria #balmain #gifted ♬ suono originale - sssinister_
Artificial intelligence and social media strategies are rapidly reshaping various industries, and the fragrance world is no exception. In this sector, AI and TikTok are redefining the consumer experience in ways that may surprise brands. Crucially, some applications can support the niche fragrance sector without undermining its exclusivity or watering down its essence of absolute creativity—one that ideally rises above market trends, public expectations, and budget constraints.
Curious about how this is happening? Read on for the latest insights I gathered in an exclusive interview at Istituto Marangoni Milano, where three influential voices came together: Meo Fusciuni (Perfumer and Founder of his eponymous brand of “emotional scents”), SSSINISTER (the TikTok handle of Matilda Morri, a Fragrance Expert, Content Creator, and Writer), and Viviana Barker-Hemings (Marketing Director of Coty Italia Prestige Brands).
The Role of Emotions in the Creation of Niche Fragrances
“Everything that is modern today contrasts with my world, which is linked to the past, to travelling, and intimate reflection,” said Meo Fusciuni, a chemist and herbalist who founded his eponymous niche fragrance brand in 2010. His goal was to pursue olfactory research and a poetic vision that could capture the essence of journeys, thoughts, and emotions. “Every time I return from a trip, I think about what I have experienced,” he added.
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This deep, emotional approach to perfume is evident on his website, where each fragrance is described through the emotions it aims to evoke in the wearer. Fusciuni has always emphasised, “Transforming an emotion into a fragrance is the hardest thing. To young perfumers, I say: ‘Tell your own story.’ It’s the uniqueness of being yourself that makes you stand out.”
Can Social Media Coexist in Such an Exclusive Fragrance Industry?
Niche perfumery is defined by its commitment to creativity, authenticity, and the use of high-quality, natural ingredients to produce fragrances in small batches. These fragrances are typically available in limited quantities at select stores, and they are not heavily promoted through mass advertising as seen in other sectors. This raises an interesting question: can social media truly coexist in such a reserved and exclusive industry?
Niche perfumer Meo Fusciuni recognises the undeniable power of social media in shaping consumer preferences and enhancing brand visibility. However, as he often points out, his fragrances do not follow market trends or external pressures. Instead, they are crafted in direct opposition to these influences, reflecting a deeply personal and internal creative process.
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Crafting a fragrance is an art form for artisan perfumers like Fusciuni. They take great care in selecting ingredients, developing complex accords, and designing scents with multiple layers and intricate notes that leave lasting impressions. Their stories are not told through glossy advertisements featuring celebrities or persuasive soundtracks that promise to transform the wearer. In niche perfumery, consumers write their own stories, fostering a more intimate connection between the fragrance and the individual.
What Do New Generations Want from Perfumes, and Why Should Artistic Perfumers Care?
Shifting to the perspective of content creator Matilda Morri, known as SSSINISTER, a perfume enthusiast and representative of Gen Z, today’s younger generations are confronted with what she calls the “paradox of choice.” What does this mean? With so many opportunities available, it becomes increasingly difficult to decide who you want to become. As Morri explains, life inevitably forces you to let go of many possibilities in order to follow just one path—and that’s where perfume comes in. It allows you to express a part of yourself that might otherwise remain hidden. Work in a bank but dream of being a Bolshoi étoile? In a way, perfume can help you believe in that dream. “I’d love for people to carry their passions with them through perfume, even while doing things that don’t inspire them as much,” said SSSINISTER.
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According to Morri, the post-Gen Z generation—known as Gen Alpha—seems to be heavily influenced by pop culture, particularly anime, manga, and superheroes. She adds, “Luxury is already moving in that direction, and the fragrance world should follow, associating scents with more pop culture universes,” with Japan and Korea serving as prime examples. This approach could offer new opportunities for niche fragrance producers as well. Although prestige perfumes typically resist following trends and maintain their timeless appeal, this shift could be seen not as a fad but as a reflection of the tastes and interests of future consumers. The challenge now is to resonate with an audience that is increasingly drawn to Eastern pop culture while still crafting exclusive fragrances for those who reject standardisation and seek a unique fragrance that reveals new aspects of their personality.
What Will Be the Next Challenges for Prestige Fragrance Brands with AI?
“As Meo Fusciuni said, the emotional aspect can never be replaced, but the question is: could AI amplify an individual emotion into a collective one?” said Viviana Barker-Hemings, Marketing Director of Coty Italia Prestige Brands. To prove that Coty does not shy away from innovation, even in the realm of master perfumery, she referenced the launch of Infiniment Coty Paris. This collection of fragrances was inspired by visions of Sue Nabi, CEO of Coty, and Nicolas Vu, drawing from the legacy of François Coty. Together, they sought to channel their emotions into a new 14-piece fragrance suite, supported by cutting-edge science and the finest ingredients in perfumery.
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“In this project, we also wanted to explore the field of neuroscience. Through the use of Molecular Aura—a technology that controls the evaporation of precious olfactory molecules and extends a perfume’s signature—we aim to anchor the raw material within the fragrance and ensure its persistence, not just in terms of longevity on the skin, but in retaining that distinctive scent, that sensation, emotion, or story that the fragrance is meant to convey,” Barker-Hemings explained. While most perfumers in the industry prioritise high concentrations of natural ingredients, Coty’s leaders chose to invest in a scientifically advanced, time-released formula. Each of the 14 Infiniment Coty Paris scents features a Molecular Aura and is influenced by Nabi and Vu’s African and Asian roots, memories, and inspirations, aligning with Coty’s three-pronged approach to fragrance: scientific performance, emotional connection, and sustainability.
With this heritage and approach, it’s no surprise that they are open to incorporating artificial intelligence. As Viviana Barker-Hemings noted, “I’m confident that AI will contribute by helping us understand how to better evoke certain emotions, such as childhood memories, as in the fragrance Soleil d’Ikosim by Infiniment Coty Paris.”
Another intriguing aspect of Infiniment Coty Paris is its packaging. While the fragrances boast a maximalist performance, the packaging itself is minimalist—each bottle is designed to be stacked and connected to the next. When assembled, the bottles become a glass canvas. This concept, known as Artcycling, merges art and upcycling, as the bottles become a medium for expression by artists handpicked by Nabi and Vu.
Where do we stand when it comes to haute perfumery and AI? Viviana Barker-Hemings offered an insightful summary, emphasising that balance is key. “I think artificial intelligence can never replace human emotion, one of the most important values we possess, a unique ingredient that makes a fragrance so special,” concluded the Marketing Director of Coty Italia Prestige Brands, bringing clarity to the discussion. “That said, it’s clear that these innovative tools are enhancing business and, in some cases, improving the consumer experience. This is evident in projects like Infiniment Coty Paris and others, where technology is elevating the fragrance experience.”
Lucrezia Spina
Editor, Milano