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Apr 17, 2024

Is storytelling the X-factor to stand out in the luxury perfume boom?

What is the defining factor behind today’s luxury and niche fragrance craze? It’s about storytelling. Luxury perfumes aren’t just about scents; they’re stories waiting to be shared.

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

This emphasis on storytelling is vital for the success of exclusive fragrances, as it adds a unique twist to the fundamental process of defining a brand’s identity. The stories surrounding perfumes can captivate consumers, resonate with them, and establish emotional connections, encapsulating the essence of the fragrance. Crafting a compelling luxury perfume story means capturing hearts and influencing consumer choices, bringing niche fragrance brands into the spotlight.

The niche fragrance industry provides valuable insights into how impactful stories are created, told, and amplified. To celebrate Fragrance Day, Istituto Marangoni Milano hosted an event called “Inhabit Your Emotions: How Fragrances Can Craft Fashion Narratives” in collaboration with Accademia del Profumo, which was dedicated to fragrance and cosmetics enthusiasts and aimed to provide insights into the realm of emotions and storytelling. 

Here, we had the opportunity to engage with Luca Maffei, CEO at Atelier Fragranze Milano and one of Italy’s leading perfumers on the international stage, and Monica Del Vecchio, Area Manager of Carthusia, a historic brand of artistic perfumery known for Italian craftsmanship and the Caprese lifestyle. They were joined by Micaela Giamberti, Fragrance Division Manager at Atelier Fragranze Milano and tutor at Istituto Marangoni Milano. Together, they took us on a journey through the passions and emotions that underpin the world of luxury and niche perfumery.

Ready to explore the enchanting universe of perfumery, guided by experienced professionals? It’s a world filled with allure, where fragrances hold the power to evoke emotions and awaken unique lifestyles.

 

Scented Narratives: Revealing the Stories Behind the Art of Perfumery

During our olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano, we soon realised that each bottle holds more than just a fragrance—it tells a captivating story and an olfactory experience that transcends the ordinary.

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

In this exclusive conversation with Luca Maffei, a renowned international perfumer from Italy, we uncovered how passion and ambition are essential for achieving the final masterpiece. Monica Del Vecchio, who joined the conversation, shared the same sentiment, emphasising the importance of dreaming big while staying grounded.

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Un post condiviso da Carthusia (@carthusia_profumi)

Carthusia isn’t just a perfume house; it offers a sensory experience that blends art, science, tradition, and innovation. Its core value is to provide authentic perfumes that maintain a deep connection with their homeland, Capri—a bond that is both invisible and unbreakable. Monica Del Vecchio shared a story rich with her family’s heritage and engaged participants in an olfactory journey where passion underpins the creative process.

Luca Maffei emerged as the driving force behind extraordinary fragrances. His unique vision combines scientific knowledge with artistic passion, resulting in perfumes that are true works of art. His relentless pursuit of new olfactory horizons has been fuelled by instinct from a young age, with the world of fragrances and the mysterious alchemy of their combination serving as his greatest inspiration as an aesthete.

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Un post condiviso da Luca Maffei (@lucamaffei)

As a producer company, Atelier Fragranze Milano, led by the father-son duo Marco and Luca Maffei, oversees projects from fragrance creation to production. They firmly believe that crafting the most ethereal fashion accessory begins with the human experience. They aim to weave a narrative through emotions. Despite their high scientific expertise, they view perfume as an art rather than a science and prioritise creative dialogue over analytics between the brand designer and perfumers. Moreover, they advocate for visionary boldness in their approach.

From left to right: Monica Del Vecchio (Area Manager at Carthusia), Micaela Giamberti (Fragrance Division Manager at Atelier Fragranze Milano and tutor at Istituto Marangoni Milano), and Luca Maffei (CEO at Atelier Fragranze Milano), during the fragrance event hosted by Istituto Marangoni in partnership with Accademia del Profumo

From left to right: Monica Del Vecchio (Area Manager at Carthusia), Micaela Giamberti (Fragrance Division Manager at Atelier Fragranze Milano and tutor at Istituto Marangoni Milano), and Luca Maffei (CEO at Atelier Fragranze Milano), during the fragrance event hosted by Istituto Marangoni in partnership with Accademia del Profumo
 
The Pathway to Success: Where Science, Art, and Storytelling Merge

Beneath every luxury and niche fragrance lies a masterpiece intertwined with an olfactory tale that Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano craft meticulously, starting from their Italian heritage and expanding globally, embracing diverse cultures along the way.

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

The endeavours of these companies underscore the importance of striking a balance between the scientific and artistic domains. Their secret to success lies in storytelling: perfume serves as a medium to convey a message, with each fragrance having the ability to evoke memories of chapters of people’s lives, pleasant sensations, or shared experiences.

Indeed, each consumer is unique, and their responses to a fragrance can fluctuate based on their personal experiences. “Scents are akin to childhood memories. They can either repel us due to negative associations or draw us in affectionately, evoking emotions,” said Monica del Vecchio of Carthusia.

 
Harmonising Complexity: Discipline and Balance in Perfume Making

What does it take to orchestrate the team involved in crafting a perfume, seen as a symphony of diverse elements? In an artistic and prestigious environment like luxury perfumery, it’s crucial to have a precise methodology to avoid errors. Discipline becomes an integral part of the process, where professionals work together to produce a unique product.

 

From left to right: Monica Del Vecchio (Area Manager at Carthusia), Luca Maffei (CEO at Atelier Fragranze Milano), and Micaela Giamberti (Fragrance Division Manager at Atelier Fragranze Milano and tutor at Istituto Marangoni Milano), during the fragrance event hosted by Istituto Marangoni in partnership with Accademia del Profumo

From left to right: Monica Del Vecchio (Area Manager at Carthusia), Luca Maffei (CEO at Atelier Fragranze Milano), and Micaela Giamberti (Fragrance Division Manager at Atelier Fragranze Milano and tutor at Istituto Marangoni Milano), during the fragrance event hosted by Istituto Marangoni in partnership with Accademia del Profumo

Moreover, it is essential to achieve the perfect balance each time. “The journey is a quest for equilibrium,” remarked Monica Del Vecchio.

Scientific expertise plays a crucial role in the complex process of analysing raw materials and understanding the subtle nuances they offer. This knowledge enables effective communication with perfumers when creating a scent designed to evoke a specific experience, such as a day at the beach with the distinct aromas of citrus, rosemary, mint leaves, cedarwood, and patchouli.

 
Navigating Commercial Challenges and Gen Z Influence for a Niche Fragrance Brand

Del Vecchio and Maffei, drawing from their experience working at Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano, revealed a persistent challenge within the fragrance industry – the process of taking a scent to the market, known as commercialisation. 

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

As previously noted, fragrances have the power to evoke intense emotions. For this reason, when launching a new fragrance, it becomes paramount to captivate customers by tapping into their memories and taking them on a journey into an exploratory universe. 

The success of a perfume in today’s market is greatly influenced by the younger generation, especially Gen Z consumers. This group displays a vibrant curiosity and passion for exploring niche fragrances in their pursuit of exclusivity, longevity, and prestige. Gone are the days of mass-market scents, as no one wants to smell cheap anymore.

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

Hence, luxury, niche, and elite fragrance companies should not consider their products as mere commodities for the mass market. Instead, they should view them as unique and artistic creations that reflect individuality. This approach mirrors the meticulous attention to craftsmanship and presentation found in haute couture ateliers, though, in this case, it is centred around the olfactory experiences rather than physical silhouettes.

“Explore the world by smelling as much as you can and staying curious,” said Luca Maffei of Atelier Fragranze Milano during our discussion, which evolved into an olfactory and sensory journey.

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

A moment of the olfactory journey with Carthusia and Atelier Fragranze Milano hosted by Istituto Marangoni Milano to celebrate Fragrance Day

At the end of our conversation, we came to realise that perfume is a reflection of life itself. It takes consistency to provide a clear perception of what the fragrance can bring, as well as fidelity in conveying the message to customers without compromising the intuition and heritage behind it. Lastly, a distinct blend of emotion, passion, and narrative that revolves around the identity of both the perfume and the brand is the ultimate key factor for success.

 

 

Agnese Pasquinelli
Fashion Business, Digital Communication & Media student, 3rd year, Milan