Handkerchiefs tied around the neck, vaquero jackets, flowing blouses, suede leather, bell bottom pants, chunky belts and reimagined camperos. After their sway into the women’s attire, we are assisting a revamp of the American spirit and all things Western among menswear fashion enthusiasts. From Dsquared2 in Milan to Egonlab, Louis Vuitton by Pharrell Williams and even Valentino in Paris, the Fall-Winter 2024/25 men’s catwalks were all about cowboys.
Fashion highlights for Fall-Winter 2024/25 featuring Egonlab and Louis Vuitton, along with a captivating look from Balmain Resort 24. Collage courtesy of the author
Even Quentin Tarantino felt the need to reinterpret, contextualise and codify the myth of the Far West, passionately beloved by Americans, at a certain point in his career. His film The Hateful Eight draws a parallelism between the United States of today and the dynamics of that period of American history. Tarantino follows a philosophy that suggests that every Western movie reflects the society of that time and how it functioned.
Similarly, when a specific garment that has defined a country’s heritage – such as the Western style and its relation to American history – becomes fashionable again, we can spot a cultural or semantic meaning behind it.
Has Western Style Truly Become a Well-Established Aesthetic in Fashion?
During the 1970s and 1980s, it became popular in Europe and mainly in Italy to incorporate Western elements into everyday attire. This clothing choice was often seen as a political statement, with wearing a pair of Camperos or Texans identifying you as belonging to the left or right parties.
Despite the appeal of the American dream, the traditional style of camperos, with its rich and almost baroque motifs, did not fit the European idea of classicism; it lacked the timeless quality of other iconic fashion pieces, such as the 501 Levi’s or the Timberland boots worn by the Paninari youth subculture, which have since become classics of our fashion dictionary.
Conversely, for Americans, Western wear has always been an integral part of American culture, and many Americans continue to incorporate various elements of traditional Western clothing into their everyday attire. This cultural significance, combined with consumers’ current need for emotional comfort and security in the face of social instability, explains the growing fondness for pieces reminiscent of the Old Wild West. This emerging trend becomes particularly intriguing for fashion brands that seek to create a timeless appeal, especially when their target audience is based in the US.
When the Old Wild West Began to Captivate Music Stars and Ordinary People
A revival of classic pieces, especially those related to American culture, has led to a comeback of the Western style. This reassuring, traditional aesthetic had already been popular among male audiences due to the success of the song ‘Old Town Road’ by Lil Nas X ft. Billy Ray Cyrus.
The trend reinvigorated the country look and influenced the fashion choices of Post Malone on the red carpet and Harry Styles on his Love on Tour concert. However, only recently has this style started to become a part of everyday life beyond the entertainment industry.
How the Cowboy Fantasy Swept Through the Fall-Winter 2024/25 Men’s Catwalks
The cowboy glam has recently been translated into a modern-day menswear option, especially for those seeking a departure from excessively formal tailoring.
This trend was evident at recent Fall-Winter 2024/25 men’s fashion shows in Milan and Paris, along with a drop by Bode in New York.
Catwalk Evolution at Dsquared2: From Scruffy Ranch Boys to 80s Disco Cowboys
The Dsquared2 fall-winter 2024/25 collection featured a tale about transition and how this can be mastered through clothing.
DSQUARED2 FALL-WINTER 2024 COED COLLECTION. Courtesy of Dsquared2
Day and night proposals ranged from sleeveless shearling matched with dirty-looking checkered shirts, ripped jeans and work boots, with the models’ faces being splashed with mud to enhance the rugged feel.
Other outfits showcased an 80’s 80s-inspired glamour rooted in cowboy kitsch-ness, rodeo extravaganza and glitzy ensembles.
Louis Vuitton and the Pop Western Vibe
At Louis Vuitton men’s FW24, creative director Pharrell Williams showcased his fascination for cowboy culture, inspired by the traditions of his hometown, Virginia.
LOUIS VUITTON MEN’S FALL-WINTER 2024 SHOW © Louis Vuitton – All rights reserved
The designer gave us a detailed look at his modern interpretation of the Louis Vuitton man, with a particular emphasis on denim. Denim, considered one of the founding materials of streetwear, was the highlight of the show, decorated with pearl and sequin floral embroidery, gunmetal washed and adorned with sunbeam and rain beading or printed with Western floral motifs.
LOUIS VUITTON MEN’S FALL-WINTER 2024 SHOW © Louis Vuitton – All rights reserved
The collection featured ranch boys with a modern pop touch that embodies the brand’s soul and Virgil Abloh's heritage, with references from the Louis Vuitton men’s FW21 show. Models walked the runway in leather jackets and trousers featuring saddle-like patterns.
LOUIS VUITTON MEN’S FALL-WINTER 2024 SHOW © Louis Vuitton – All rights reserved
Fringed coats and vests showcased a motif that combined a cowboy riding his horse with the LV monogram, while their lining had Far West vibes transformed into a Jacquard tapestry, guiding the audience into a contemporary interpretation of country tailoring.
LOUIS VUITTON MEN’S FALL-WINTER 2024 SHOW © Louis Vuitton – All rights reserved
Here, the Western-inspired collection brings out its dandy side, with vaquero jackets, pinstriped or checkered suits, and shirts with the traditional bolos to add a funky, Pharrell-esque feel.
Valentino’s Far West in Conceptual Pills
Neatly stripped-down, minimalistic, and beautifully integrated with Italian elegance, and even more so with the savoir-faire of the house’s creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli.
VALENTINO LE CIEL 20.24 Menswear Fall-Winter 2024/25 by Pierpaolo Piccioli. Courtesy of Valentino
The Valentino Men’s Fall-Winter 2024/25 show featured a subtle and sophisticated hint of the Far West theme but communicated the concept effectively through the maison’s style.
Bode Reshapes American Nostalgia
The Bode Fall-Winter 2024/25 lookbook is a collection that takes inspiration from the past and combines it with the current trend of retro nostalgia.
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The collection featured a reworked version of the iconic Nike Astro Grabber, one of the first sneakers ever produced by the sports brand.
An ode to America’s love of sportswear, the pieces reimagine leisure and athletic apparel, demonstrating once again the strong connection between the brand’s heritage and the country’s history while giving us a hint that the American flag era and the country’s imagery might make a comeback soon.
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First look at the Bode x Nike Astro Grabber collaboration featured in the brand’s Fall 2024 ready-to-wear lookbook
If you thought that Barbie’s Kenergy was the peak of the Far West craze, you were probably mistaken. The fashion industry is still obsessed with fringes and pointed boots. Additionally, cinema is fuelling this trend, especially with the recently Oscar-nominated Western film ‘Killers of the Flower Moon’ by Martin Scorsese.
Nicole Giulianini
Fashion Business alumna, Milan