In Milan, a SS25 season of superheroines, nostalgia, and Marina Abramović
The artist graces Milan Fashion Week SS25, a season that will be remembered for how clothes evoke emotions and trips down memory lane
From Prada’s futuristic runways to Etro’s romantic exaggeration and Emporio Armani’s minimalist elegance, the message is clear: the woman on Milan’s Spring-Summer 2025 catwalks is strong, independent, and a bit of a superhero. Ferrari also stood out, with Rocco Iannone—an Istituto Marangoni alumnus—taking luxury sportswear to new heights while staying true to the brand’s roots in speed and innovation.
View this post on Instagram
At Ferrari, however, the front row commanded as much attention as the runway, as Marina Abramović sat there, captivating the photographers’ attention. “The artist is present,” one might say, referencing her iconic performance. Abramović, in Italy for the opening of her solo exhibition at the newly launched Gres Art 671 space in Bergamo, took the opportunity to attend several Milan Fashion Week shows. She was seen at Ferrari but also made appearances at Fendi, Versace, MM6, Prada, Jil Sander, and Ferragamo.
Now, let’s turn our focus back to the Spring-Summer 2025 womenswear trends. Ready to discover what we’ll all be wearing next season? Let’s dive in!
Future or Sci-Fi? Here Come the Superheroines
Prada catapulted us into a futuristic world with oversized glasses that scream “futurism” and metallic skirts reflecting the July sun. Who says superheroines need spandex suits? Here, transformation takes the form of A-line skirts and sheer tulle, combining strength with sophistication. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons focused on individuality and personal power, blending ’90s elements with post-apocalyptic aesthetics.
@dazed @Prada just showcased their SS25 collection during Milan Fashion Week 💥 #DazedFashionTV #TikTokFashion #FashionWeek #Runway #MFW #MilanFashionWeek #Prada ♬ original sound - dazed
Prada wasn’t the only one with this vision. Ferrari, under the creative direction of Rocco Iannone, also embraced the ideas of power and speed, delivering clothing that blends technological innovation with luxury. It’s a future-forward fashion designed for those unafraid to show their power in a literal sense. These garments make you feel invincible, even if your only challenge is the summer heat. As the saying goes: “Not all superheroes wear capes”—sometimes, all you need is a mirrored skirt and a Ferrari-red trench coat.
’90s Minimalism: Where Less Becomes So Much More
The ’90s are back in full force, but this time with a touch of sartorial refinement. From Emporio Armani to Jil Sander, minimalism ruled the runways. However, it’s not just a revival; it’s a fresh take on elegance, with clean lines, oversized suits, and flowing trenches, bringing together style and functionality.
@runwaymen #MathieuSimoneau for #EmporioArmani Men's SS25. #MILANFASHIONWEEK #MFWSS25 #runwaymen #Runway #mensfashion ♬ Originalton - the_phonkface
AndreAdamo has played a significant role in this trend, exploring a sensual minimalism that fuses ’90s aesthetics with contemporary elements. This fashion speaks softly yet powerfully.
With fewer accessories and greater impact, the mantra “Less is more” has never been more fitting.
Transparency and Fluidity: A Dance of Dreams and Seduction
If you thought transparency had run its course, think again. Just before stepping down as creative director of her eponymous brand, Alberta Ferretti played with chiffon, lace, and tulle, creating ethereal gowns that blur the line between dream and reality.
Transparency also took a bolder turn. At Roberto Cavalli’s first show following the founder’s passing, creative director Fausto Puglisi infused sensuality into lightweight fabrics with daring slits, creating a story of glamour and grandeur.
View this post on Instagram
Sportmax, on the other hand, introduced sculptural fluidity, redefining transparency in surprising ways.
Spring-Summer 2025 is set to be a season of femininity cloaked in mystery and audacity—a poetic balance of boldness and grace.
Giant Flowers: Where Florals Bloom Larger Than Life
Florals for spring? Miranda Priestly from The Devil Wears Prada would say it’s “Ground-breaking.” But Marco de Vincenzo of Etro proved that florals can still surprise us. Here, flowers become oversized and almost three-dimensional, embroidered onto silks and luxurious fabrics with intricate craftsmanship. This is not your typical “spring florals” (sorry, Miranda); it’s a botanical explosion, where a trompe-l’œil effect makes flowers appear as if they are leaping off the garments, creating optical illusions reminiscent of a painting.
@ellearabia Etro’s SS25 collection embraced Mediterranean influences with bold colors, abstract florals, and sensual silhouettes inspired by flamenco dancers. Towering agaves symbolized rebirth, while Daniela Pes’s live performance added an enchanting touch to Marco De Vincenzo’s striking vision. استوحت مجموعة إيترو لربيع وصيف 2025 تأثيرات البحر الأبيض المتوسط من خلال الألوان الجريئة والأزهار المجردة والقصات الحسية المستوحاة من راقصي الفلامنكو. كما ترمز نباتات الصبار الشاهقة إلى الولادة الجديدة، في حين أضاف الأداء الحي لدانييلا بيس لمسة ساحرة إلى رؤية ماركو دي فينسينزو المذهلة. @Etro #marcodevincenzo #etro #etross25 #ss25 #milan #milanfashionweek #ellearabiatakeover ♬ Soft, slow, cinematic background.(1302336) - Art Music Style
Urban Style: The City as Your Runway
Max Mara excelled at translating urban style into something aspirational. Creative director Ian Griffiths masterfully engineered gabardines, drills, and poplins, transforming these materials while preserving the essence of his vision for the modern urban warrior woman.
Meanwhile, Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno embraced a different approach, merging tailoring, lingerie, and leather into striking silhouettes. His vision, paired with luxury craftsmanship, gave rise to a “casual grandeur” that seamlessly blends practicality with sophistication.
@showstudio Ciao @Gucci 👋 Sabato de Sarno just presented his S/S 25 womenswear show at the Triennale Milano. Stay tuned for our review. #gucci #sabatodesarno #milanfashionweek ♬ original sound - SHOWstudio
The Spring-Summer 2025 season will be defined by transformation. From superhero women to minimalist nostalgia, bold transparencies to oversized flowers, every trend tells a story of strength, femininity, and innovation. Ferrari and Iannone have shown that speed isn’t just for cars—it’s for fashion, too. And we’re more than ready to wear it.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Master student, Milano