Fresh off the runway and pulsating with style, Milan Fashion Week for women’s fall-winter 2024/25 has wrapped up, leaving a trail of trends that are set to define the upcoming chilly season.
Finale at the Prada Fall-Winter 2024/25 women's runway, envisioned by the creative duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. Courtesy of Prada
Amidst the glitter and glamour, one theme reigns supreme – the artful dance of opposites. From masculine juxtaposed with feminine to the interplay of strict structure and airy lightness, designers showcased a clash of contrasts that celebrated the multifaceted essence of womanhood. Heavy, robust fabrics collided with ethereal silks, underscoring the duality of the female spirit. It was a deliberate nod to the complexity and depth inherent in the world of women’s fashion—a reminder that within every garment lies the potential to embody countless personas, concepts and ideas.
Matthieu Blazy's concept for the Bottega Veneta Fall-Winter 2024/25 runway showcase. Courtesy of Bottega Veneta
Let’s delve into the five most noteworthy trends from Milan Fashion Week Women’s for fall-winter 2024/25.
The Cardi(ga)nal Rule
In a captivating move that has the fashion world buzzing, Prada emerges as the trailblazer in reviving a timeless classic – the cardigan. At the forefront of the latest Milan Fashion Week, the duo of Miuccia Prada and co-creative director Raf Simons infuse new vitality into this wardrobe essential. Prada’s runway spectacle departs from the realm of subdued neutrals, exploding with vibrant hues as cardigans are boldly paired with skirts reminiscent of the austerity of the 1940s. The cardi(ga)nal rule? Embrace the unexpected by pairing non-matching combinations, boldly departing from the predictable iterations seen elsewhere, including those that have defined Miu Miu’s twinset as a best-seller.
On the left, the interpretation of the cardigan by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons for Prada's Fall-Winter 2024/25 women's collection; on the right, Walter Chiapponi's debut proposal for Blumarine. Courtesy of Prada and Blumarine
Meanwhile, Walter Chiapponi’s Blumarine debut injects a whimsical flair into the cardigan craze, unveiling knitted wonders adorned with playful furry pom-poms, adding a delightful twist to the trend.
Bodysuits: Breaking Out of the Underwear Drawer
Tank tops and tees have been dethroned—it’s time to embrace the bodysuit trend. However, this isn’t the familiar undergarment of yesteryears. The bodysuit has undergone a dramatic makeover, emerging as a versatile piece meant to be seen. Whether peeking out from beneath unbuttoned layers or boldly showcased beneath a coat, it represents a radical departure from conventional dress codes, as evidenced by Rocco Iannone’s bold catwalk at Ferrari, where Irina Shayk wore a bodysuit as a dress under a long, tailored coat with a striking red lining.
The bodysuit featured in Donatella Versace's fall-winter 2024/25 women's collection for Versace (left), and from Kim Jones' latest runway show for Fendi's womenswear (right). Courtesy of Versace and Fendi
Versace took a daring approach by incorporating second-skin bodysuits into trousers, emphasising the curves of the body with an undeniable allure. Meanwhile, at Fendi, under the creative direction of Kim Jones, women displayed a fiercely rebellious spirit and a hint of sensuality by wearing unfastened bodysuits.
True to his collection’s name, ‘Memento Amori,’ Marco Rambaldi presented a cosy knitted take on the bodysuit, effortlessly paired with satin skirts for a contemporary twist. Embracing asymmetry, Rambaldi encourages leaving the typically fastened flaps undone, elevating the bodysuit into a statement piece.
Stoles, Shawls, and Capes: The Fabulously Dramatic Comeback
Once the darlings of fashion, stoles, shawls, and capes took a plunge into obscurity for a while. But lo and behold, they’ve resurfaced on the Milanese catwalks for women’s fall-winter 2024/25, not as standalone pieces but as complementary additions to other garments, whether coats or knitted ensembles.
From left to right, the art of draping as imagined by Adrian Appiolaza, the new creative director of Moschino, and by Daniel Del Core, at the helm of the eponymous brand Del Core. Courtesy of Moschino and Del Core
At Adrian Appiolaza’s debut show as creative director of Moschino, these classics received a playful and ironic makeover, honouring the expertise and codes deeply embedded in the DNA of the house established by Franco Moschino. Meanwhile, Daniel Del Core took a different approach, focusing on protection with sweeping capes that wrap the body, providing a sense of comfort and care.
Antonio Marras offered a style exercise of his own, presenting his 2.0 interpretation of Little Red Riding Hood, infusing the timeless tale with a contemporary twist. With these designers leading the charge, could this herald the ultimate return of stoles, shawls, and capes to the forefront of fashion?
A Tribute to Hitchcock or a Touch of Style? You Can’t Escape Satin and Duchesse
Once synonymous with high society and the glamorous affairs of divas from bygone eras, satin and duchesse are shedding their dusty veneer and making a triumphant comeback.
The use of satin duchesse fabric by Lorenzo Serafini for his latest collection for Philosophy, inspired by the women of Alfred Hitchcock's films. Courtesy of Philosophy
Lorenzo Serafini’s latest collection for Philosophy showcased these luxurious fabrics in refined and sophisticated garments and accessories, blending vintage charm with a contemporary twist. Think asymmetrical dresses, oversized clutches, and chic lace-up flat shoes, all with a delectable visual allure that flirts with Alfred Hitchcock’s iconic portrayal of women on the silver screen. For the grand finale, bright hues of duchesse fabrics stole the limelight.
Meanwhile, at Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons elevated the iconic sharp slingbacks with a satin touch, proving that satin isn’t just for ceremonies anymore. It might be time to rewrite the old equation in our fashion playbook: satin = ceremony?
50 Shades of Brown
This season promises an extensive colour palette, ensuring that everyone will find their perfect shade of brown.
The nuanced browns displayed on the fall-winter 2024/25 runways of Ermanno Scervino (left) and Bottega Veneta (right). Courtesy of Ermanno Scervino and Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta showcased warmer, more sensual shades, with designer Matthieu Blazy assuming the role of a painter who infused the garments with rich hues. Bally opted for cooler, distinctly novel tones inspired by German romanticism, while Ermanno Scervino focused on empowering women with bold pieces, such as crocodile-effect leather jackets and outerwear dyed in dark chocolate.
Rigour and sex appeal reinvent the past with a sober approach that reflects the historical period. This translates into a concrete proposal that extends beyond the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week for women’s fall-winter 2024/2025. Are you ready to brave the cold while transcending the inherent fleeting nature of fashion?
Agnese Pasquinelli
Fashion Business, Digital Communication & Media student, 3rd year, Milan