Fashion week is back in Milan! As fashion month has just come to an end, here I am to share my point of view and what inspired me the most during the MFW shows I went to. To be honest, I spotted new trends literally everywhere: from the models hitting the runway to the people sitting front row and the hottest fashion parties in town. Collections were far more different than usual, and clothes looked like Milan was moving towards an edgier style. This was also confirmed by Vogue Italia: «Milan’s reputation as a stagnant fashion landscape where new talents aren’t given the space and opportunity to grow seems to be finally coming to an end», as Tiziana Cardini noticed. «This season’s packed MFW schedule was brimming with young designers showing promising debuts, progressions in confidence, and more focused points of view. Distinctive in their expression yet addressing the same issues, their creative potential was obvious. They didn’t try to skirt controversy, and embraced messages which gave voice to cultural minorities and advocated social activism and ethical responsibility. Many of the young designers had a provocative, radical, imaginative aesthetic. Fashion cannot change the world, but these guys had things to say».
A still image from Blumarine fall 2022 fashion show
1. Dark Romance
Here’s a favourite catwalk trend, and something we had all been waiting for: bare it all and get naked in see-through silhouettes infused with Parisian glamour. For instance, Blumarine revealed a nocturnal, provocative collection with a touch of sexual fantasy and an emphasis on lace and dark make-up. Let me say, the girly Blumarine ingénue has grown up and now wants it all: big furry jackets and mini-skirts with tights or hold-ups on pointy heels.
A still from Bottega Veneta fall 2022 catwalk
2. Basic tank tops with a touch of luxury
At Prada, Kaia Gerber opened the show in a tank top and a semi-sheer below-the-knee skirt. Then came Bottega Veneta, whose first look was a white tank top and a pair of blue jeans, both made of leather. Don't you guys think that the 90s’ bad-boy trend may be getting ready for a big comeback?
A still image from Prada fall 2022 défilé
3. Coats are getting bigger and bigger
At Bottega Veneta we saw coats getting bigger and hairier. Coats were a secret weapon in Milan's Fall 22 collections, and Diesel showcased huge denim ones with long denim straps. Finally, Prada revealed that bomber jackets with 3D-looking leaf embroidery – while in different colors and with new twists – are still a thing for Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons.
A still from Versace fall 2022 runway
4. BDSM-inspired dominatrix
The influence of Bdsm-inspired dominatrix couture has made its mark on fashion and announced itself as a trend that's here to stay. From Versace to Blumarine, all the catwalks have shown that black lips will be a thing next winter. The brand creatively led by Donatella Versace gave a lesson on how to use shiny second-skin vinyl pants and to design coats with built-in boned corset that emphasized the fullness of its shoulders. Julia Fox was inspired by her past work as a dominatrix – she recently said that it helped her learn about her sexuality. Ambush showed strappy over-the-knee boots, and see-through silhouettes made their way on her catwalk, worn under long, fitted coats.
A still from N°21 fall 2022 show
5. Lingerie as outerwear
New party looks or casual daytime looks, sheer fabric and metal mesh are not going to leave us, or at least not next year. Many brands such as Fendi or N°21 showed us how to wear lingerie in everyday situations, mixing some good style and vibes, while the up-and-coming designer brand Andreadamo focused on layers of dresses and bras with a sporty touch.