How the new cult movie The Substance reflects our obsession with beauty and youth
The most divisive body horror film of 2024 reveals disturbing truths about our fixation on youth and the dangers of our image-obsessed society
In 2024, the myth of thinness has sadly resurfaced, overshadowing all efforts to promote diversity. Ten-year-old girls are now using retinol and even offering unsolicited advice like “don’t smile too much to avoid expression lines.” This troubling environment serves as the perfect backdrop for Coralie Fargeat’s film The Substance.
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Though it has only just been released, the film is already becoming a burgeoning obsession, particularly within the fashion world. It explores themes related to youth as well as ageing, the celebrity industry, and the treatment of women in society. Horror enthusiasts will surely pick up on references to directors like David Lynch, David Cronenberg, and Stanley Kubrick.
What Price Would You Pay for Eternal Youth?
In this satirical body horror film, Elisabeth, a fading movie star portrayed by Demi Moore, falls out with her sleazy producer Harvey—a name that inevitably brings to mind a certain producer whose surname starts with W. Feeling that she’s “too old”, he plans to replace her.
After being fired, Elisabeth meets a mysterious male nurse who hands her a USB stick labelled The Substance, promoting a drug that promises to create a “better you” from your DNA, symbolised by the recurring motif of egg yolks. Desperate for this magical elixir, she sets off on a quest to obtain it, all the while wearing a bright yellow coat in the sweltering heat of Los Angeles.
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The drug’s unclear instructions lead to a disturbing transformation, resulting in the birth of a younger, more stunning clone of the main character, played by Margaret Qualley. However, the clone, named Sue, soon takes over Elisabeth’s life and her previous role in television. The story critiques Hollywood’s obsession with youth and the objectification of women while also using Sue’s hyper-sexualised image to highlight the darker sides of the industry.
Can the Line Between Reality and Fiction Ever Truly Be Blurred?
Demi Moore’s casting as the lead character in The Substance reflects her own personal experiences. In recent years, Moore, who was once celebrated for her beauty, has faced criticism for her appearance—something her male counterparts rarely encounter.
Casting an actress like Demi Moore, whose public image and history are widely recognised, adds a level of authenticity to the film, blurring the lines between fiction and reality.
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We rarely see older women as central characters in films; when wrinkles start to appear, they are often treated as imperfections or symbols of malevolence. Who could forget the image of Snow White’s wicked old stepmother?
In Hollywood, male actors continue to play leading roles in romantic films well into middle age, while women in their 40s are often relegated to maternal roles.
Is the Search for Perfection Pushing Society Too Far?
The film’s premise—injecting an illicit, unknown substance to combat the fear of ageing and the societal pressure to stay youthful—may seem extreme, but it turns out to be closer to reality than we’d like to admit.
If you browse the internet, you’ll find countless examples of the lengths people will go in the pursuit of beauty. Your favourite influencer might use mysterious extracts on her skin, while another swears by a solution for hair growth despite its lack of scientific evidence. There are even pills marketed with promises of miraculous transformations.
How Close We Are to Living the Horror of The Substance and What We Can Do About It
Considering the recent and worrying spike in the obsession with youth and beauty standards, if something like The Substance existed in real life, it would likely sell out in days.
Between the outstanding performances and the grotesque effects, the most unsettling aspects of The Substance challenge the audience’s self-perception. In most films, you watch, finish, and then walk away. However, with The Substance, as you leave the theatre, you realise that you’re living something not so far removed from Elisabeth’s nightmare every day.
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So, what can be done about it? Given the growing interest in Coralie Fargeat’s film, we must come together for a collective reflection and resist the pressure to chase unattainable beauty ideals, lest we turn our lives into a horror show. While we may not be ahead of the curve, there is still time to ignite meaningful and responsible change.
Ana Carolina Diehl
MA in Fashion Promotion, Communication & Digital Media, Paris