Uncover the story of Oud, from its origins and rarity to its allure for new generations, plus all the must-try TikTok-approved fragrances
Three letters, an ancient history that spans centuries, and a unique unisex scent that interacts differently with each individual’s skin—this is oud, also known as agarwood. This “magical” ingredient has gained significant popularity in the niche perfumery industry, partly due to the growing passion and enthusiasm for distinctive olfactory notes among Gen Z.
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Artistic perfumery has long employed this precious natural material to create signature collections. One of its most prominent advocates is the renowned French perfumer Pierre Montale, founder of the eponymous brand, who once remarked: “Its strength comes from the dents of the ages and the lands that have borne it, and its splendour, immediately perceptible, can be discovered and known only through time.”
Think you know oud? Think again. From its origins to the secrets behind its irresistible allure, we are diving deep into everything you never knew about this luxurious woody base note.
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From Nature to Perfume: The History and Origins of Oud Wood
You read that right: oud wood. Oud is derived from a specific resin produced by the Aquilaria tree, which is native to Southeast Asia. When this tree becomes infected by a particular parasite, it releases a rare secretion that saturates its bark, transforming it into agarwood—more commonly known as oud.
Due to the complex extraction process and the endangered status of the tree, this material is becoming increasingly rare and expensive. In response to high market demand, more fragrance brands are turning to laboratory-synthesised formulas to recreate the scent of the natural essence, which can be found in only a small percentage of Aquilaria trees.
So, what does oud smell like? Describing this essence can be quite challenging. It has a musky, vegetal, woody aroma with notes of saffron and minerals. When you inhale an oud perfume, you are immediately transported into a wild and natural world.
Your Go-To Guide to All the Must-Know Niche Oud Fragrances
Numerous perfumers have incorporated oud into their fragrances, but some have developed dedicated collections that have gained international acclaim. One notable example is Montale, whose founder refers to himself as “the French ambassador of oud” and claims to be “the first exporter of oud to the West,” making it a beloved note in his most popular creations. Several of his perfumes are specifically centred around this distinctive ingredient, including Black Aoud, Arabians Tonka, and Oudrising.
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Next, we must mention Francis Kurkdjian, whose collection is conceived as “an olfactory conversation between the East and the West.” His Oud Satin Mood is particularly cherished. The collection also encompasses candles, body lotions, and oils.
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Another brand that is gaining traction, especially among younger generations, is Tom Ford. His best-selling Oud Wood is a testament to sophistication and allure.
Additionally, several other fragrances have become popular, including Oud Essentiel by Guerlain, Oud Ispahan by Dior, Accord Oud by Byredo, the entire Oudgasm Collection created by Mona Kattan with her Kayali brand, and Oud for Greatness by Initio.
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A quick note on Mona Kattan: her affection for oud has led her to introduce ‘bakhoor,’ a tool that burns pieces of oud wood, allowing users to scent their hair, clothes, and home with its rich aroma.
@monakattan Bakhoor Burning 101 🖤 When burning our @Kayali Oudgasm Smoky Perfumed Oud Wood, always remember that safety is key! 🔑✨ Happy burning my loves! 🖤🔥😮💨 💙 LAUNCHING MARCH 5, 2024 💙 #KAYALIoudgasmcollection #KAYALIsmokyoud #KAYALI #monakattan #SOTD #scentgasm #tiktoksalon #bakhoorburning #bakhoor ♬ original sound - Mona Monica Kattan🧸
The list of fragrance brands that love oud is extensive, but I would like to highlight a discovery we made at Pitti Fragranze this September: Ajmal Perfumes. Founded in India, this brand has gained significant popularity in Dubai and is regarded as one of the leading producers of oud fragrances worldwide. One of its perfumes, Song of Oud, has recently become trendy on TikTok.
@ajmalperfumes Elevate your day with the captivating citrus, floral, and woody notes of Song of Oud. A fragrance as unique as you are. #AjmalPerfumes #SongofOud #Perfume #Perfumetiktok #fyp تناغم يخطف الأنفاس من الحمضيات والزهور والخشب. عطر سونغ اوف عود من #أجمل صُنع لأجلك! #سونغ_اوف_عود #أجمل #عطور_أجمل ♬ original sound - Ajmal Perfumes
The Relationship Between Oud and Gen Z: It’s Love at First Sight
Oud is a highly coveted and luxurious fragrance due to its limited availability, making it a rare treasure in the world of scents. But how does Gen Z view this magical ingredient? The answer is clear: they adore it!
@farhanaoberson Oud perfumes that will last long and get you compliments ✨ #bestperfumesof2023 #perfumes #perfumetiktok #perfumesforwomen #luxuryperfume #luxuryperfumes #oudperfume #longlastingfragrance #smellamazing #smelllikeluxury ♬ Ya Nari - Oualid & Cravata
An increasing number of young people are exploring the world of perfumery and appreciating scents that are considered ‘ancient.’ Additionally, social media is brimming with Gen-Zers eager to purchase fragrances that elevate their mood.
Because that’s what Oud does: it has a unique ability to envelop the body and clothing, allowing wearers to express their best selves without judgment.
Silvia Tarini
Editor