Marc Jacobs steps in as American Vogue’s first guest editor for the December issue, sparking speculation over Wintour’s future editorial control
In a historic and unexpected move, American Vogue’s powerhouse editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, has invited designer Marc Jacobs to serve as the magazine’s first-ever guest editor for the December 2024 issue.
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This collaboration marks the first time in American Vogue’s history that Wintour has granted another creative full editorial control, sparking both excitement and a fair share of questions about the future of the esteemed fashion magazine—and Wintour’s role within it.
Is American Vogue Ready for a New Voice—Even if Just for One Issue?
Wintour explained that this decision arose from a moment of creative overwhelm. With the intense 2024 U.S. presidential election underway, she admitted to feeling uncertain about the best direction for the December issue. “It’s going to be a very emotional time,” Wintour told The New York Times’s Vanessa Friedman, adding that she believed it was wise for everyone to “take a step back.”
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In the past, various international editions of Vogue, including French and British Vogue, have featured guest editors. Inspired by the 1985 French Vogue issue curated by David Hockney, Wintour then decided to attempt something unprecedented: for the first time, she entrusted her Vogue to an outside editor.
What Marc Jacobs’s Guest Editorship Means for Anna Wintour’s Legacy
As Wintour handed Jacobs a mood board over lunch at New York’s Balthazar, she had only one candidate in mind: the fashion visionary whose unique designs and boundary-pushing approach have redefined American style since the 1990s. “There was never anyone else in my mind. If he had said no, I would have gone a different route, not to another person,” Wintour told Friedman.
However, the question remains: why Marc Jacobs, and why now? Unlike previous Vogue editions, Anna Wintour has famously maintained tight control over the magazine she has helmed since 1988. The timing of her decision is particularly noteworthy, as it comes amid significant cultural shifts and debates in the fashion industry and beyond, prompting speculation about whether Wintour, now in her seventies, may be considering a shared editorial model.
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Marc Jacobs described the experience as both thrilling and intimidating. “I was very scared, I really was,” he confessed, sharing his fears with The New York Times. However, with Wintour’s support, he accepted the challenge, ultimately crafting an issue filled with diverse voices and artistic perspectives that Wintour alone might not have explored on her own.
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For the December issue, American Vogue features Kaia Gerber on two distinct covers: one painted by Canadian artist Anna Weyant and the other photographed by fashion mogul Steven Meisel. These covers represent a notable shift in tone and style, blending Jacobs’s fascination with art, cinema, and couture into one of the magazine’s most unconventional issues yet. Inside, there is also “a big portfolio about dance as freedom and discipline and expression,” stated Jacobs. Additional contributions include a piece by playwright Jeremy O. Harris discussing the discomfort of wearing a corset, as well as photographs by artist Gregory Crewdson, who captured Jacobs at his Frank Lloyd Wright-designed house.
A Step Back or a Leap Forward?
Despite the speculation, Wintour has made her intentions clear—this is neither a goodbye nor a trial run for a future co-editor. “No. Absolutely not,” she stated firmly when asked if she plans to step back. “I love my job. I love all aspects of it and hope to be able to do it for a long time to come.”
Wintour’s message is unwavering, but with Jacobs’s editorial input making waves, there is no denying this experiment could pave the way for more frequent collaborations, possibly even with other designers, artists, and creatives.
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As readers await the opportunity to hold this collector’s issue in their hands—the result is online this week and will be on newsstands on November 26—many are left wondering if this temporary editorship could evolve into something more.
In an industry where reinvention is crucial, perhaps Wintour’s collaboration with Jacobs may signal an openness to pursue greater innovation in American Vogue’s editorial direction.
While Anna Wintour still reigns as the leading figure, having a “co-editor-in-chief” could introduce fresh vitality to the magazine and may bring it closer to a new generation of readers who value diversity and boundary-breaking narratives.
Ultimately, only time will tell if this issue is a one-time endeavour or the start of a transformative era for Vogue. Regardless, the December issue will stand as a landmark for American Vogue and a testament to Wintour’s willingness to embrace change—even if, for now, it remains on her own terms.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master’s Programme Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan