Could fashion’s celebration of Chinese New Year go beyond marketing?
Fashion powerhouses seek profits through drops tied to Chinese holidays, but Chanel and Dior’s heritages reveal a deeper cultural connection
As Chinese New Year 2025 approaches, luxury powerhouses such as Dior, Loewe, and Acne Studios have unveiled collections inspired by the Year of the Wood Snake. In Chinese astrology, the Wood Snake symbolises charm, intelligence, and creativity. The year’s auspicious colour, green, represents growth, prosperity, and wisdom. Nature-inspired motifs in these releases further emphasise themes of renewal and good fortune for the year ahead.
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Yet these dedicated drops serve a purpose beyond aesthetics or cultural significance. According to Vogue Business, over half (54%) of Chinese luxury consumers spent more than RMB 6,500 (850€) during last year’s Lunar New Year, highlighting the financial potential this festive period holds for the fashion industry. However, the central question remains: Are these collections an authentic embrace of Chinese culture, or are they merely a polished marketing strategy to boost sales?
Are Fashion Brands Exploring Chinese Culture in Depth or Skimming the Surface?
As the Asian market has become increasingly crucial to the luxury sector, global brands have started to incorporate elements of Eastern culture into their designs.
Major holidays, such as Chinese New Year and 520 Day (China’s unofficial Valentine’s Day, with “520” phonetically resembling “I love you” in Mandarin), provide international brands with opportunities to honour these traditions while attracting global attention with dedicated product releases. That’s why zodiac symbols, auspicious colours, and motifs associated with prosperity are now common in fashion collections for the Lunar New Year.
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However, the authenticity of these efforts is often questioned. Do Western fashion houses genuinely seek to understand the cultural and historical depth of these traditions, or are they simply cherry-picking visual elements for commercial appeal? While scepticism may persist, a closer look at certain brand heritages suggests there may be more to their intentions than meets the eye.
Why Auspicious Symbols Are Deeply Meaningful in Chinese Culture
Auspicious symbols hold significant importance in Chinese culture, with roots in ancient practices like feng shui and astrology. These symbols influence various aspects of everyday life, from architecture to personal decisions, and have been passed down through generations.
These symbols remain central to many Asian families and have gradually made their way into Western culture since the 18th century. During this time, the Chinoiserie style emerged in Europe, which drawing on art and design elements from China, Japan, and other Asian cultures.
Central to this tradition is Feng Shui, which employs the “Ba Zi” or “Four Pillars of Destiny,” based on a person’s birth details, such as date and time. These principles are believed to protect individuals, guide decision-making, and enhance overall well-being, making them essential in many Asian households and increasingly intriguing to Western audiences.
Coco Chanel and Her Connection to Feng Shui
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was one of the first to blend auspicious symbolism with high fashion. Born in August 1883, Chanel was a Water Sheep in Chinese astrology. Her choices in furniture and personal items were thought to align with her elemental energies, fostering balance and success.
Chanel’s office on Rue Cambon reflected her appreciation for auspicious symbols, featuring a framed painting of Hangzhou Lake—a breathtaking location where Chanel’s Métiers d’Art show took place last December— as well oriental panels symbolising wealth.
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A staunch believer in numerology, astrology, and Feng Shui, Chanel embraced these traditions by incorporating symbols that continue to resonate within the brand today.
Dior, Loewe, Acne Studios, and the Rise of Auspicious Fashion Collections for Chinese New Year Celebrations
Chanel was far from alone in recognising the power of auspicious symbols. Christian Dior incorporated feng shui principles by establishing his Paris atelier in the 8th arrondissement, with eight floors and eight workshops—a number closely associated with prosperity in Chinese culture.
More recently, Loewe has embraced the Chinese zodiac in its collections, using zodiac animals and lucky colours to resonate with the themes of the Lunar New Year. Acne Studios, alongside other major fashion and beauty brands, has adopted similar strategies, crafting collections that combine cultural symbolism with commercial appeal.
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While these efforts are undeniably effective in attracting consumer interest, they also raise an important question: Are brands embracing auspicious symbols as a deeper reflection of Eastern philosophy, which prioritises harmony and longevity? Or are they merely leveraging these traditions to maximise revenue in a highly competitive market?
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As fashion brands continue to celebrate Chinese New Year, the line between cultural appreciation and commercial intent remains sensitive. For some, these collections represent a genuine respect for Eastern traditions, weaving ancient philosophies like feng shui into contemporary luxury. For others, they are little more than a calculated attempt to tap into a lucrative consumer base. Only time will reveal whether these efforts will have a lasting cultural impact or fade into yet another fleeting trend in the fashion industry, particularly if the Chinese market loses its prominence for Western brands.
Emily Kumala Putri
BA student in Fashion Design, Paris