From his signature halter dresses to 1970s glamour, six Mumbai emerging designers show how to bring Halston’s legacy into the present
The timelessness of an object does not solely depend on its ability to remain unchanged over time. Rather, one could argue that its timelessness lies in its capacity to evolve while staying true to its original essence. This concept of transformation should guide our perspective on the heritage and legacies of brands that have shaped fashion as we know it today. One notable brand in this context is Halston.
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The Designer Who Defined 1970s Fashion
Roy Halston Frowick, widely known as Halston, was one of the most influential American designers of the 20th century. He played a key role in defining 1970s fashion and the so-called “disco era” with his elegant yet seductive dresses, beloved by models and celebrities alike, often featured in the iconic “Halstonettes” entourage. Known not only for his stunning designs but also for his extravagant lifestyle, he became a prominent figure in New York’s party scene, especially at the famed Studio 54. His circle included high-profile personalities such as Liza Minnelli, Elsa Peretti, Truman Capote, and Andy Warhol.
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Halston’s creations, often inspired by his social life, included the popular halter neck dress, which became a favourite of Bianca Jagger and Marlene Dietrich. He described his design philosophy as “editing the mood of what’s happening,” embracing a shift from structured garments to more practical yet chic styles. Reflecting on his legacy shortly before he died in 1990, he described his work as “an experiment” that was “revolutionary for its time.” As he told WWD, “Whether it was cashmere, jersey, or chiffon, it was about a total look. Clothes should be practical, glamorous, functional, and spare. But mine weren’t always simple. Some of the simplest looks were, in fact, the most complicated.”
By revolutionising fashion and emphasising fluidity and ease over rigid structures, Halston’s designs celebrated the natural movement of the body, using soft, draped fabrics that enhanced comfort and elegance. This approach allowed for a liberated, more relaxed silhouette that became synonymous with 1970s glamour and sophistication.
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What Halston’s Legacy Can Teach the Next Fashion Generation
If you were to ask how his work resonates with the present and emerging young fashion designers, the answer can be found in the collaboration between the “With Love, Halston Foundation” and Istituto Marangoni Mumbai. At the event, guests were welcomed by a white orchid as they entered the school, which had been temporarily transformed into Halston’s studio. The runway, with a sweeping view of the city’s coastline, provided a serene backdrop, embodying Halston’s concept of “freeing the form.”
Six students from Istituto Marangoni Mumbai – Ishita Singh, Twinkle Jain, Nandini Sarda, Priyaraje Singh, Gaurvi Monga, and Krishangi Bohra – presented a three-piece collection that seamlessly blended their personal themes and design philosophies with Halston’s original aesthetic.
Halston's heritage served as the inspiration for the collection by Istituto Marangoni Mumbai student Krishangi Bohra
These rising fashion designers incorporated a range of innovative textile techniques into their creations, celebrating Indian craft heritage and personal narratives within the global context of Halston’s fashion. A panel of industry experts renowned for their mastery of Halston’s design philosophy and style included James Ferreira and Halston’s niece, Lesley Frowick.
How Emerging Fashion Designers in Mumbai Draw Inspiration from Halston’s Heritage
Ishita Singh used a vintage photography technique called cyanotype for her textile design. She converted pictures of her hometown into digital prints of cyanotypes that adorned the fabrics of her garments.
The Halston-informed collection by emerging designer Nardini Sarda from Istituto Marangoni Mumbai
Nandini Sarda took inspiration from Pichwai, a traditional Indian miniature painting style, and transformed it into contemporary monotone hand embroidery. The collection was envisioned as a bridal collection with a streetwear twist.
Priyaraje Singh focused on various styles of draping with unique tie-dyed textiles in chiffon and crepe. Her key takeaway was the valuable experience she gained from working directly with the fabrics.
Istituto Marangoni Mumbai talent Priyaraje Singh’s collection, inspired by Halston’s design
Krishangi Bohra created a distinctive jumpsuit that incorporated a new hoodie, symbolising the ghoonghat, a traditional head covering worn by women in the region of Rajasthan.
Twinkle Jain spoke about how she took inspiration from Bandhani, an Indian tie-dye technique, to create an extremely minimalist version of this for Halston’s showcase.
Twinkle Jain, a rising fashion designer at Istituto Marangoni Mumbai, reimagined Halston's legacy with a modern twist
When asked about their experience, Gaurvi Monga and Twinkle Jain said, “Halston’s designs are timeless, classical, elegant and can still be worn as is because they fit into our modern contemporary fashion seamlessly.” It is this contemporary aesthetic that drew them towards designing for the competition.
Who Best Captured Halston’s Design Philosophy
Ishita Singh’s collection stole the show and secured the top prize. The citation stated, “The winning collection was a very close call, as each collection was incredibly creative and unique.” This winning collection was evaluated based on creativity and originality in design, sustainability, personal presentations, and marketability, all while keeping Halston’s aesthetic in mind.
Singh’s remarkable collection earned her a scholarship, a monetary prize from the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation, and a coveted Elsa Peretti Tiffany heart box. Finalists were awarded exciting opportunities, including internships, global publication of their illustrations in Fida, and the chance to present their designs at a Halston retrospective showcase.
Honouring Halston: Nurturing a New Wave of Designers
The “With Love, Halston” programme is a tribute to the legendary designer and his enduring legacy. The programme seeks to nurture and elevate the next generation of designers by offering essential resources and guidance while educating them about Halston’s innovative brilliance and lasting impact on the fashion industry.
The school has also partnered with The Rilievi Group, a company specialising in hand embroidery and tailoring, to enhance and support students’ creativity in their collections.
This fashion show was held in honour of the late American milliner-turned-designer Roy Halston Frowick through the ‘With Love, Halston Foundation’ scholarship programme, in a unique partnership with Istituto Marangoni Mumbai.
Shweta Shah
Tutor, Mumbai