From Surrealism to Sicilian-Chinese multiculturalism, an inclusive future unfolded at Fashion Graduate Italia 2024 with these 11 designers
Who, if not the young, can rewrite the rules and define the aesthetic and cultural codes of the future? Innovative ideas and bold visions, which are so vital for disrupting the current luxury landscape, require a dose of courage and energy that thrives in the new generation of emerging fashion designers. Imagine a fashion week entirely dedicated to these rising talents, poised to breathe fresh life into this industry. This is not just a dream; it’s a reality in Milan.
Fashion Graduate Italia 2024 is an event that spotlights the best students from Italy’s fashion academies, institutes, and schools. The tenth edition recently unfolded in Milan, following a series of virtual workshops and lectures and culminating in a three-day celebration of fashion shows, exhibitions, and talks. The event offered a platform for these up-and-coming fashion designers to showcase their work and foster connections between the fashion industry and the educational system.
Eleven students from Istituto Marangoni Milano unveiled their collections at Fashion Graduate Italia 2024. Photo: Daniele Venturelli
The event began with a talk by Italian singer BigMama, who championed the message of cultural inclusivity. This year’s theme, Eyes Wide Open, encouraged guests to view the world through a conscious and authentic lens, embracing change and what lies ahead.
The jam-packed schedule at BASE Milano included a fashion show by Istituto Marangoni, showcasing the work of eleven emerging designers from their Milan campus: Rosa Auletta, Eleonora Bellea, Angelo Francesco De Simone, Thomas Jurczyk, Gaetano Liu, Michele Mazza, Tomas Parodi, Chiara Sara Sburlati Pedrazzini, Giada Rubini Grandi, Chufan Wei, and Cesare Garbin.
Through their innovative and deeply personal collections, these graduates challenged the norms of the fashion system, exploring themes such as memory, cultural heritage, identity, and gender fluidity.
Where Emotion Embraces Innovation
A clear thread running through the collections was the innovative use of materials to convey emotions. For instance, Rosa Auletta captivated the audience with her collection “Rosetta qui fa freddo,” where oversized padded garments symbolised the need for protection—a theme that resonates strongly today amid global trends. The military-inspired details, far from feeling cold or detached, evoked warmth and a sense of belonging, reflecting the designer’s emotional connection to her grandparents. The concept of “fashion cocooning” takes on a new form here, creating garments that offer refuge in uncertain times.
A look by Istituto Marangoni student Rosa Auletta. Photo by Daniele Venturelli
Inclusivity, Multiculturalism, and Gender Fluidity
The theme of identity was central to many of the emerging fashion designers on the catwalk. Gaetano Liu explored his dual cultural heritage by blending Sicilian and Chinese traditions in his “Sugnu” collection. What set his proposal apart was its gender-neutral approach, in line with the growing movement to challenge traditional boundaries between masculine and feminine wardrobes. The fluidity of the garments, characterised by soft, enveloping lines, suggested a fashion that no longer adheres to rigid rules but invites free expression.
A look by emerging fashion designer Gaetano Liu from Istituto Marangoni. Photo by Daniele Venturelli
Similarly, Thomas Jurczyk’s “Heimat to Be” explored themes of belonging and transformation, drawing inspiration from the dialogue between the past and the future. This approach reflects a growing shift in contemporary fashion, where cultural hybridisation serves as a means of fostering inclusion.
A look by Istituto Marangoni fashion designer Thomas Jurczyk. Photo by Daniele Venturelli
Surrealism Meets Architecture
In a context of constant experimentation, rising fashion designer Eleonora Bellea presented a collection inspired by the surrealism of Salvador Dalí. “Folie à Deux” transformed the body into a living canvas, with distorted volumes and shapes that played with perception.
A look by Eleonora Bellea from Istituto Marangoni Milano. Photo by Daniele Venturelli
However, it was Chufan Wei who truly stood out for his modernity. In The Flowing Land, Wei interpreted the influence of architecture on daily life, creating a collection that reflected current trends in structured clothing, where dynamic, constantly moving fabrics are in tune with the demands of urban society.
A look by Istituto Marangoni student Chufan Wei. Photo by Daniele Venturelli
New Voices, New Messages, a Bright Future
At Fashion Graduate Italia 2024, fashion transcended mere aesthetic statement; it became a powerful catalyst for change. The emerging fashion designers reinterpreted contemporary issues through their personal stories, resulting in clothing that addresses themes of inclusion, identity, and belonging. By blending tradition with innovation, they demonstrated that the future of fashion is shaped by those who dare to envision new sartorial languages, unafraid to break the rules.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Alumna, Milano