South Korea is a global leader in entertainment, producing world-class TV series, K-dramas, K-beauty, and beloved K-pop music, driving the Korean Wave.
Not just a local sensation, K-pop is winning the hearts of Gen-Zers worldwide. That’s why global fashion brands are eagerly hiring K-pop idols as ambassadors, front-row guests at catwalks, and faces of their ads.
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For instance, BTS’ Jung Kook recently teamed up with Calvin Klein Jeans, headlining their latest spring campaign. Additionally, BTS’ Kim Taehyung, known as V, surprised fans with a floral-themed photoshoot for W Korea as the ambassador for Celine. Fans have been ecstatic Since LVMH, the parent company of Dior and Tiffany & Co., partnered with Jimin as the face of both brands. Furthermore, Bulgari’s global brand ambassador, Blackpink’s Lisa, collaborated with the brand on their watch collections, while her fellow Jisoo stole the spotlight as their global ambassador at the Cartier Trinity 100 celebration in Paris.
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Fiercely coveted by top-tier labels, these musicians travel across the globe, attending more and more fashion shows season after season. IU, the pseudonym of Lee Ji-eun, a singer-songwriter and actress who consistently dominates the South Korean music charts, graced the latest front row at Gucci, generating the most visibility during Milan Fashion Week Men’s FW24. Yu Ji-min, professionally known as Karina and the leader of the girl band Aespa, attended Prada. Christian Yu, aka DPR Ian, was spotted at Dolce&Gabbana. In Paris, Riize, a recently formed South Korean boy band, made waves at Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton runway. Tomorrow X Together, commonly abbreviated as TXT, participated as guests at the FW24 Dior by Kim Jones show, and so forth.
But Korean stars transcend music, as Korean creatives set global trends and drive cultural discussions. K-fashion embodies a distinctive elegance, fusing traditional elements like beloved school uniforms with modern flair, emphasising clean lines, layering, and oversized fits, all wrapped in an undeniably adorable, often cute, aesthetic.
Just as Italy embraces K-pop, the country has also fallen in love with Korean fashion design. To celebrate this, from February 23 to 26, the Milanese venue of Casa degli Artisti will host ‘Milan Loves Seoul.’ With Istituto Marangoni as the Educational Partner, this four-day event will feature masterclasses, talks, exhibitions, and a fashion show, providing a special platform for K-fashion and K-beauty sectors during Milan Fashion Week. Aiming to foster dialogue between Korean excellence and Italy’s fashion scene, ‘Milan Loves Seoul’ will support Korean designers who have made their mark not only at Seoul Fashion Week but also globally, known for their blend of sustainability and avant-garde. Rising stars such as Danha Kim, Subin Hahn, and many other talents are poised to captivate the audience with their creations.
So, who are the top K-fashion designers stealing the spotlight in 2024? Here are (just) a few of our favourites.
Subin Hahn Fluidwear by Subin Hahn: Redefining Gender-Neutral Fashion with Sensitivity and Idealism
Established in 2016 and officially launched in 2018, Subin Hahn Fluidwear stands as the eponymous label of South Korean-born fashion visionary Subin Hahn. Hailing from Suwon, Hahn ventured to New York to pursue his fashion aspirations, earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts and honing his craft with esteemed fashion houses such as Zac Posen, Marchesa, Calvin Klein, Vaquera, and Marc Jacobs. In the bustling streets of New York City, Hahn has established his brand by offering timeless pieces alongside limited-edition creations that he meticulously handcrafts himself in collaboration with artisans from both the United States and South Korea.
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Inspired by the enchantment of fairy tales and the eclectic, Subin Hahn Fluidwear will participate in ‘Milan Loves Seoul’, showcasing fashion’s ability to reinvent traditional femininity and delicate sensibilities as sources of empowerment. Following a mission to challenge conventional notions of masculinity by prompting gender-neutral fashion, Subin Hahn seeks to reimagine the boundaries of men’s and women’s wear, inviting everyone to explore fashion beyond binary gender constructs.
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A brand favoured by celebrities, Subin Hahn Fluidwear boasts a roster of VIP clients, including Milck, Greta Van Fleet, Millicent Simmonds, Ashe, Bretman Rock, Thomas Flynn, Ava Max, and Kimbra.
Ader Error: The Anonymous Collective Where Imperfection Is Great
The anonymous South Korean design collective Ader Error emerged in 2014 as an under-the-radar fashion collaboration comprising creatives from diverse disciplines such as fashion, illustration, graphic design, and architecture.
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The brand’s name holds a meaningful narrative: ‘A’ stands for aesthetic, ‘D’ for drawing, and ‘ER’ for people who do something, resulting in ‘people who do something aesthetic.’ The term ‘Error’ conveys a negative connotation, symbolising failure or mistake.
With the motto “But Near Missed Things,” the studio reimagines familiar garments in unexpected ways, drawing inspiration from everyday objects. “We usually make normal things abnormal,” they told Metal Magazine. “We turn complex things into something easy and friendly because we want people to experience art, fashion, and culture.”
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Ader Error blends clean-lined minimalism with youthful irreverence, showcasing bold colours, graphics, and unconventional slogans. Their collection features oversized t-shirts, hoodies, and experimental tailored pieces like shirts and coats, offering progressive yet accessible staples that have garnered a dedicated following.
Danha by Danha Kim: Pioneering Sustainable K-Fashion
In 2018, designer Danha Kim founded Danha, a sustainable fashion brand deeply rooted in Korean tradition. Renowned for her innovative approach to Hanbok design, Danha Kim skyrocketed to fame when the music video for “How You Like That” by the girl group Blackpink broke records, amassing 200 million views in just eight days on YouTube.
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Drawing inspiration from traditional patterns, fabrics, and styles, Danha Kim is set to participate in ‘Milan Loves Seoul’ to showcase her creations, meticulously crafted using eco-friendly materials like organic cotton and recycled polyesters sourced from yarn extracted from waste plastic bottles. Moreover, Danha excels in upcycling fashion, transforming discarded wedding dresses into exquisite clothing items meticulously reimagined at the Danha Atelier.
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Committed to sustainability throughout the production process, the brand also embraces eco-friendly packaging solutions, including the versatile Dumbo Bag, made from cloth and designed for reuse in various capacities, such as stylish shopping totes.
Wooyoungmi by Young-mi Woo and Katie Chung: Elevating Art and Understated Elegance in Menswear
South Korean designer Young-mi Woo introduced Wooyoungmi in Paris in 2002. Today, Madame Woo collaborates with her daughter, Katie Chung, cementing Wooyoungmi as the pioneering menswear K-fashion brand led by female designers.
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With a focus on luxurious innovation and design, Wooyoungmi pieces are influenced by architectural concepts applied to the human form while also capturing the essence of understated street style. Felt, a favoured fabric of the label, epitomises the perfect balance of ruggedness and warmth, strength and softness.
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The spring-summer 2023 show during Paris Fashion Week celebrated the brand’s 20th anniversary.
Kusikohc by Cho Giseok: Redefining K-Fashion Boundaries with the ‘Right to Fail’
Under the motto “Right to Fail” and celebrating authentic individuality, Kusikohc stands as one of the many creative ventures of multidisciplinary artist Cho Giseok.
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During the LVMH Prize nomination for the 2023 semi-finalist brands, they remarked: “In Giseok’s collections, a coarse and unsettled reality is suddenly juxtaposed against softer, sometimes floral motifs. Giseok elevates his unique conceptual and filmic style to new heights, overseeing everything from clothing and art direction to photography itself.”
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A conceptual and boundary-pushing brand, Kusikohc offers genderless jewellery and fashion founded on the belief that “challenge and commitment have the power to effect change, even in the face of failure,” as stated by Cho Giseok. “Therefore, we have the right to fail.”
Young N Sang by Youngshin Hong and Sanglim Lee: Redefining Responsible Street Couture
An upscale sustainable menswear brand, Young N Sang hails from South Korea and was founded in 2018 by Youngshin Hong and Sanglim Lee, a creative duo who first met in middle school. With a focus on experimental fabrication and sustainability, the brand utilises patchwork and hand-weaving techniques, with over 80% of their collections crafted from natural, organic, recycled, and upcycled yarns. Additionally, they advocate for local production to minimise unnecessary carbon emissions.
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“We create artworks, not products,” stated the creatives. Their dedication to fashion was initially recognised in 2015 when they won two Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) competitions. Just a year later, they customised the Wilson football for the 50th Anniversary of the Super Bowl.
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The brand’s sustainable philosophy revolves around timeless wear that transcends generations, accumulating memories of life and evoking nostalgia. “Recalling precious memories in our lives brings happiness,” expressed the creative couple behind Young N Sang to Red Eye. “We hope our clothes will be part of those memories and serve as a link to your cherished moments.”
Lucrezia Spina
MA alumna in Fashion Omnichannel & E-Commerce, Milan