What does it take to bring Franco Moschino’s spirit to fashion today?
The answer emerges from the work of designers, artists, and creatives at Superstudio, marking 30 years since Franco Moschino’s passing
What happens when fashion meets irreverent humour, wit, and a hint of provocation? The legacy of Franco Moschino comes to life—the visionary who challenged the rules of the system, turning fashion into a clever and surprising game. Thirty years after his untimely death, Milan honours the man who made subversive creativity his manifesto.
Milan honours Franco Moschino with an exhibition held at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio
This tribute takes shape with Moschino’s induction into the 2024 Hall of Legends by the Art Directors Club Italiano (ADCI) and the exhibition titled “Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario”. Visitors will embark on a journey through photographs that celebrate his genius at MyOwnGallery within the Superstudio space in Milan. Opened on November 22 and running until December 19, the exhibition is curated by ADCI’s Giuseppe Mastromatteo and Pierpaolo Pitacco, with the patronage of the City of Milan. It showcases Stefano Pandini’s photographs, capturing defining moments from Moschino’s career between 1980 and 1994.
The “Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition goes further: alongside panels featuring Moschino’s work in large-format prints and fine art, it presents a film and video interviews with influential figures from 1980s and ‘90s pop culture.
Yet at the core of the exhibition is a question that continues to resonate with the fashion world and among those who appreciate what Moschino achieved in just a decade, from 1983: How can we bring Franco Moschino’s spirit into contemporary fashion?
Opened on November 22 and running until December 19, the “Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition is curated by ADCI’s Giuseppe Mastromatteo and Pierpaolo Pitacco
The challenge of preserving Moschino’s legacy in today’s fashion landscape is far from simple. The exhibition’s introduction describes him as “the enfant terrible of Italian fashion, a polymath genius who shattered the conventions of the fashion system with a wry smile. A revolutionary designer, provocative advertiser, nonconformist painter, rebellious philosopher, pacifist, and pioneer of the eco-friendly movement.” Translating his work for the present is no easy task; Moschino’s art combined bold social critique with iconoclastic creativity, leaving a lasting mark on both the fashion industry and the society he both inhabited and challenged.
If anyone can take on this challenge, it is the young designers who are now stepping up to restore vitality and innovation to the industry. And who better to lead this effort than the former students of Istituto Marangoni, where Moschino himself once studied? A dedicated section of the “Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition showcases the works of emerging talents from the international school, who were invited to reinterpret Moschino’s legacy with creativity, audacity, and a personal touch. Irony, breaking the mould, and the courage to take risks were the criteria for winning the contest, with the chosen works displayed at Superstudio in Milan.
Ready to discover how new talents are reinterpreting Moschino today? The winning creatives from Istituto Marangoni, who are based all over the world, share their projects here.
The Garment as a Meeting Place: A Surreal Homage
Francesco Imberti
Bachelor Fashion Design & Accessories with Womenswear Pathway 2022, Milano Fashion
Emerging fashion designer Francesco Imberti’s outfit embodies a striking interplay between fashion, art, and photography. “I wanted to explore the symbolism of conviviality and exchange, captured through the image of an Italian trattoria table,” the creative explained.
Look by Fashion Design & Accessories alumnus Francesco Imberti for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Francesco Imberti
The skirt, crafted from tea towel fabrics, resembles a tablecloth, while the collar mimics the shape of a plate, and the hat looks like a flower in a vase, similar to a centrepiece found in an Italian trattoria. As a result, the ensemble becomes a space for connection and interaction.
When reflecting on the essence of Franco Moschino, Imberti summarised it in three words: “Unconventional, revolutionary, ironic—but with a light, effortless humour, never caricature.” And who could argue with that?
Imagine Franco Moschino’s Kitchen: Where Italian Culture Meets Provocation and Subverted Tradition
Enrique Fernández Zeka
Bachelor Fashion Business Communication & Media 2022, London
Enrique Fernández Zeka’s project was inspired by a Moschino interview in which the designer expressed a desire to be a chef. “I wanted to combine his rebellious spirit with Mediterranean culture, placing the female model in control of the kitchen while the male counterpart handles supporting tasks,” Zeka said, reflecting on his fashion shoot. This dynamic mirrors Moschino’s iconic designs while offering a fresh interpretation of his legacy.
Project by Fashion Business Communication & Media alumnus Enrique Fernández Zeka for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Enrique Fernández Zeka
As Moschino once said: “I would like to be a cook because food is my last dream.”
When asked whether his work opposes Moschino’s legacy, Enrique Fernández Zeka replied, “While the outfits and styling certainly channel Moschino, my approach is distinctly my own. I’m a highly visual person, and the image composition reflects my essence—sculptural, sensual, and alluring. The colours, positioning, and overall composition were designed to leave a personal mark on the project.”
A Brain Storm Captured Through an All-Over Printed Look
Ghazal Amrollahi
Bachelor Fashion Design 2018, Milano Fashion
“In today’s world, we’re caught in an endless ‘Brain Storm’ of ideas, opinions, and news, overwhelming us like a tornado,” says emerging fashion designer Ghazal Amrollahi. “Everyone clings to their beliefs, leading to division and conflict in politics, society, and beyond.”
Artwork by Fashion Design alumna Ghazal Amrollahi for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Ghazal Amrollahi
To capture this chaotic state, Amrollahi created an all-over print design for a women’s outfit, inspired by swirling caricatures of people caught in a tornado. This design reflects the mental clutter we endure, illustrating how an endless flow of conflicting ideas can make it harder to connect or understand one another.
Through fashion, the piece calls for empathy and unity in a fragmented world, serving as a reminder to pause and reflect in turbulent times.
A Pizza Bag to Revive Moschino’s Irony and Playfulness
Federica Ciotola
Master Contemporary Interior Design 2019, Milano Design
Drawing inspiration from Franco Moschino’s distinctive blend of irony, provocation, and playfulness, Federica Ciotola designed the Moschino Pizza Bag. “I wanted to transform an everyday object—the pizza box—into a luxury accessory,” she explains.
Bag by Contemporary Interior Design alumna Federica Ciotola for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Federica Ciotola
With a rigid, square structure measuring 30cm x 30cm, the bag resembles a pizza box made from high-quality materials, offered in either a matte or satin finish to mimic cardboard. Adorned with gold and silver charms, it merges glamour with humour, while its semi-rigid leather handle and removable strap add versatility.
This design reflects Moschino’s signature approach: taking the mundane and elevating it to the extraordinary, balancing glamour with a sharp, satirical nod to pop culture.
How Much We Still Miss Franco Moschino Today
Sophie De Cartier
Bachelor Fashion Design 2019, Paris
What happens when you combine Franco Moschino’s irreverence, his love for bold lettering, and disruptive claims with the sense of absence created by his untimely death on 18 September 1994? The answer can be found in Sophie De Cartier’s Missing Moschino collection, which captures the contemporary fascination with merchandise like T-shirts and tote bags, reimagining them as a bold tribute to Moschino’s satirical approach to fashion.
Project by Fashion Design alumna Sophie De Cartier for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Sophie De Cartier
“The collection celebrates Moschino’s Italian roots and his fearless disruption of the fashion world,” says De Cartier. “Thirty years after his passing, this homage proves that Moschino’s spirit remains alive and continues to leave an indelible mark on fashion.”
What if Franco Moschino’s Genius Could Speak to Us Today?
Ramona Lazda
Master in Fashion Styling Creative Direction & Digital Content 2022, Milano Fashion
“What would Franco Moschino’s genius say to us today if it could speak?” This is the question posed by emerging creative Ramona Lazda. After completing a Master’s programme in Fashion Styling Creative Direction & Digital Content at Istituto Marangoni, Lazda combined the skills she developed with her own distinctive talent to create an animated artwork that brings Moschino’s audacious spirit back to life. “I wanted to highlight how his genius and inclusive vision remain remarkably relevant today, allowing his legacy to continue shaping fashion,” she explains.
Snapshot from the video by Fashion Styling Creative Direction & Digital Content alumna Ramona Lazda for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Ramona Lazda
Lazda’s video features a black-and-white portrait of Moschino, with his hair and surroundings illuminated in vibrant shades of blue and pink—paying homage to his playful yet daring nature. A recording of Moschino’s voice plays in the background, recalling his iconic assertion that “even dead people can wear his clothes,” highlighting the timelessness of his designs. At the heart of the animation is a pulsating red heart, a symbolic emblem of Moschino, expanding and contracting like a heartbeat. Through this piece, Moschino is revived—not just in spirit but also in ideas and voice.
Reconnecting with the Brand’s Essence
Irena De Somer
One Year Fashion Design 2009, Paris
What if Jeremy Scott hadn’t redirected Moschino’s wit and design? Paradox, by fashion designer Irena De Somer, revisits the essence of Franco Moschino’s original vision, emphasising craftsmanship over digitalisation while also embracing upcycling, second-hand fashion, and recycling.
“Franco Moschino’s irony was rooted in his success within an industry he openly challenged. Yet under Jeremy Scott’s direction, while the spirit of satire was amplified, many felt that something vital was lost, reducing the brand and neglecting the depth of Moschino’s original ethos,” says De Somer. “My project challenges the modern digital trend, focusing on AI and stripping away the human anthropology behind fashion. It returns to creation by hand, heart, and evolution—just as it was originally.”
Project by Fashion Design alumna Irena De Somer for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Irena De Somer
“The collection includes a t-shirt emblazoned with the slogan “C’est pas la Moschino vie,” which can be translated as “This is not Moschino’s life,” featuring fabric pieces sewn and pinned together with added accessories. There is also a personal Moschino bag by De Somer, symbolising the fast-paced, consumer-driven life that dominates the modern world. Other pieces in the collection include vintage warrior boots and leopard-print gloves, reimagined as gardening gloves for a whimsical garden of ideas that needs tending. The collection also features a leather jacket made from leather and lace, a tribute to the fashion designer’s journey of resilience and an ode to Moschino’s true DNA.
What if Franco Moschino Could Work Today? A Simple White Dress with the Statement “Not Ready to War”
Emma Maggiani
Bachelor in Multimedia Arts 2023, Florence
Multimedia artist Emma Maggiani presents a thought-provoking project featuring an all-white dress. The front silhouette of the dress is refined and couture, exuding formal elegance and restraint. However, the back disrupts this quiet sophistication with a bold, handwritten slogan: “Is Moschino Couture! Not Ready to War.” This provocative phrase challenges the image of perfection, revealing a more complex and contemporary reality that calls for introspection.
Project by Multimedia Arts alumna Emma Maggiani for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Emma Maggiani
The slogan carries an urgent message of peace, while the chaotic, almost childlike scrawl evokes innocence and purity. The simplicity found in the cuts, along with the contrast between the front and back, serves as a visual metaphor for the contradictions of our modern world. These elements have led to Maggiani being praised for embodying the spirit of Moschino. Many have commented, “This is exactly what Moschino would have done today,” highlighting how her work channels the rebellious essence of his genius, infused with the same ironic and subversive creativity that defined his legacy.
“I wanted to reinterpret some of the elements we immediately associate with Franco Moschino: his use of symbols, social messages, and his artistic approach to fashion as a canvas for ideas,” said Maggiani. “The intention was to create a piece that, like him, is communicative, provocative, and elegant—never indulgent or excessive.”
“Fashion’$ Exhau$ted!”: A Provocative Message for a Saturated Industry
Anja Jenny
Bachelor in Fashion Styling 2014, Paris
Has fashion finally exhausted itself with excess? Swiss-based visual artist Anja Jenny confronts this issue head-on in her mixed-media installation, delivering a sharp critique of an industry caught in a loop of overproduction and endless novelty. Titled “Fashion’$ Exhau$ted! Let me rest!”, her work invites viewers to reflect on the impact of this relentless cycle. Jenny suggests that this cycle is driven by the media’s insatiable appetite for the new and the overexposure of everything around us.
Artwork by Fashion Styling alumna Anja Jenny for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Anja Jenny
Jenny’s piece combines textile and painting in an installation. The backdrop features a vividly saturated fabric that evokes the idealised yet exhausted universe of fashion. The yellow teddy bear, rendered in acrylic on teddy fabric with the facial features of Franco Moschino, echoes Moschino’s playful iconography while also speaking to the darker contradictions inherent in the industry. “The bear, with its bright yellow colour, represents both the dazzling allure of celebrity and the harsh, blinding light of the media. It also serves as a childlike image that contrasts with the harsh reality of the industry,” says Jenny.
The bear and fabric, hanging above the viewer, create a powerful contrast: the glamorous facade of fashion above, with the hidden, almost invisible fatigue lurking beneath — a stark commentary on the exhaustion that comes from the industry’s constant demand for reinvention.
Old is Cool: Upcycled Art, Moschino’s Way
Iuliia Tsvetkova
Cycle de Spécialisation Fashion Design Womenswear 2023, Paris
What if celebrating Moschino’s legacy was less about creating something new and more about reimagining the past? Emerging designer Iuliia Tsvetkova does just that by reviving Moschino’s distinctive spirit through the lens of upcycled fashion.
In her work titled “Object Series #1: Upcycled Vintage Cigarette Case,” Tsvetkova breathes new life into vintage cigarette cases, engraving them with bold phrases from Moschino’s renowned Autumn-Winter 1989 collection. This sustainable tribute captures the essence of individuality and irony that lies at the core of Moschino’s design philosophy.
Project by Fashion Design alumna Iuliia Tsvetkova for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Iuliia Tsvetkova
Meanwhile, in the “Object Series #2: Upcycled Canvas Art Series,” the rising designer transforms discarded garments into unique canvases, merging eco-conscious creativity with Moschino’s iconic slogans. The result is a striking celebration of sustainability and individuality, proving that upcycling can be both stylish and rebellious.
Project by Fashion Design alumna Iuliia Tsvetkova for the "Franco Moschino: Il Genio Visionario” exhibition at MyOwnGallery in Tortona’s Superstudio, Milan. Courtesy of Iuliia Tsvetkova