“The most memorable advice I’ve received? To ride the long way, never look for the short way; from Prada’s Patrizio Bertelli,” Stefano Pilati, founder and creative director of Random Identities, briefly shared at Istituto Marangoni Milano’s Front Row event. As a guest on the ‘Drama in the Detail’ panel, he made sure to engage with students, answering their questions after an enriching discussion with Carlos Gago Rodriguez, IM tutor and fashion buyer.
“The most memorable advice I’ve ever received? To ride the long way, never look for the short way; from Prada’s Patrizio Bertelli” – Stefano Pilati, founder and creative director of Random Identities
Stefano Pilati during the Istituto Marangoni Front Row at the Milano Fashion School in Via Verri. Credits Mairo Cinquetti
“I am no dreamer,” Stefano Pilati has often asserted, letting his career achievements speak volumes. Having worked with fashion giants such as Nino Cerruti, Giorgio Armani, and later joining Prada and Miu Miu, he later took the creative helm at Saint Laurent and Zegna. Today, he spearheads his independent brand, Random Identities, which was established in Berlin in 2017.
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Built around the concept of gender neutrality, Random Identities embodies Pilati’s vision of shapes as conveyors of fluidity and transition. “Everything is undefined, incomplete. We need to reconsider the present, embracing a new way of being that must be reflected in our attitude and clothing,” he explained.
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Throughout his career, Pilati has always centred his practice on the notion that he was bringing to life something tangible, something that would resonate with people beyond the confines of the catwalk, often seen as fleeting. The clothing he creates serves as his voice and his passport and must be accessible to everyone. “It is futile to create something that will forever remain a mere dream,” stated Pilati.
“When I say I am no dreamer, it is because it’s futile to create something that will always remain a dream” – Stefano Pilati
Stefano Pilati with Carlos Gago Rodriguez (IM Teacher & Fashion Buyer) and Diana Marian Murek (IM Director of Education). Credits Mairo Cinquetti
During the conversation, it quickly became apparent that Pilati has always been a unique figure, known for his unconventional professional decisions and the tailored image he has crafted for himself, setting him apart from others in the fashion industry.
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Stefano Pilati is truly obsessed with fashion and passionate about reimagining its intellectual dimensions. For him, fashion is both a medium for conveying aesthetic messages and a potent instrument for social communication.
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Fully aware of his identity and role in the fashion world, Pilati has fearlessly embraced hard work since the outset, embarking on his journey at a young age. He willingly ventured beyond his comfort zone, aligning with industry titans while also carving out his path as a designer. Recent times have seen him captivating the fashion realm with unexpected collaborations, not only as a co-creator but also gracing the runway as a model. Whether collaborating with Fendi or modelling for the debut of Louis Vuitton by his friend Pharrell Williams, Pilati has, however, always remained steadfast in his commitment to Random Identities, his brainchild, consistently placing it at the forefront of his endeavours.
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“The fashion industry today is saturated, but that doesn’t mean we need to stop or give in to the obsolete” – Stefano Pilati
With Pilati, elegance becomes palpable at Istituto Marangoni Milano. It’s as though elegance is woven into Pilati’s essence, his heart, and his stylistic language. He performs his work with such finesse that it resonates and becomes wearable by all, regardless of gender, because fashion embodies culture, and culture knows no gender boundaries.
Stefano Pilati with Carlos Gago Rodriguez at the Istituto Marangoni Front Row at the Milano Fashion School in Via Verri. Credits Mairo Cinquetti
However, it’s not solely about creativity and grand concepts; Stefano Pilati is tuned to the business aspect and the preferences of consumers, who are increasingly discerning about their purchases. The designer holds a distinct perspective on how to navigate the fashion landscape. He believes that fashion shows and marketing strategies could benefit from revisiting the past by fostering the kind of direct contact with customers that establishes a genuine and emotional connection. This approach transcends the differences between men’s and women’s wardrobes, focusing solely on the core value of elegance.
Fascinating and enigmatic, Stefano Pilati’s eyes sparkled as he spoke about Patrizio Bertelli, the husband of Miuccia Prada and the current president of the Prada Group. Considered his mentor by Pilati, Bertelli imparted invaluable advice that has shaped his journey: always avoid the shortest path. Pilati acknowledged the complexity of this advice for young individuals, who are often influenced by a culture of instant gratification. He emphasised that the true challenge lies in the contemporary lack of passion and depth.
“You know, there is a lack of passion, I’ve found. It’s evident that when you’re young, you desire everything immediately, everything swiftly, and perhaps nowadays that’s even more pronounced due to the accessibility of information and recognition,” continued Pilati. “However, you cannot achieve success overnight. In fact, there’s a lack of depth, and I believe depth, extending beyond your craft, comes alive and becomes fundamental if you ride a long way and see yourself projected on a long-term journey, not a short one.”
Stefano Pilati interviewed by Carlos Gago Rodriguez at the Istituto Marangoni Front Row. Credits Mairo Cinquetti
Somehow, Stefano Pilati shines as a perpetual star, endlessly seeking that which has yet to materialise. For instance, he pursued innovation and achieved it during his eight-year tenure leading the design studio at (Yves) Saint Laurent. Initially hired as design director by Tom Ford in 2000, Pilati ascended to head of design in 2004 upon Ford’s departure. During this crucial period, he created the brand’s manifesto, injecting it with an essence that resonated with everyone. The same innovative spirit permeated his work at Zegna and now at his own Random Identities brand, where he embraces an inclusive yet elevated fashion approach.
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Despite initial scepticism, his designs have become widely imitated, a testament to his avant-garde vision.
The ultimate fashion insider-outsider has always translated his design notions into action, ensuring his looks remain contemporary and never nostalgic. Currently residing and working in Berlin, Pilati was born in Milan in 1965 and can be considered a Milanese citizen of the world. His surroundings influence his thoughts, as he advocates the mantra “when in a country, do as the country does.” With a touch of irony, he notes that his fashion choices change significantly when in Berlin, where he resides, and when he’s in Paris.
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Ever mindful of his charm, Stefano Pilati seizes every opportunity to embody his concept of elegance. It is devoid of any ostentation, consisting of looks perfectly capable of conveying the essence of the wearer without the need for overt declarations.
When asked what advice he would give to young people venturing into the world of fashion, Stefano Pilati replied: “Stay cute.”
Stefano Pilati during the Istituto Marangoni Front Row at the Milano Fashion School in Via Verri. Credits Mairo Cinquetti
During his Front Row talk at Istituto Marangoni Milano, Pilati shared a valuable life lesson, emphasising the significance of embracing the expertise of those with more experience. He highlighted the importance of maintaining a “freedom of behaviour,” advocating for engagement with fashion as a vehicle to support individual choices that surpass traditional gender norms. Above all, he underscored the importance of nurturing passion, encouraging individuals to fuel it by observing the world and the events that unfold around us.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Fashion Business, Digital Communication & Media student, 3rd year, Milan