Balenciaga stands as a beacon of fashion excellence, yet to many onlookers, its renown often hinges upon the hype stirred by its latest artistic director, Demna. But what of its storied past? While Alexander Wang’s tenure, marked by a less ‘elitist’ approach, may not have elicited universal adoration, fashion aficionados still yearn for the treasures birthed during Nicolas Ghesquière’s visionary 15-year reign. Yet, perchance, we ought to cast our gaze further back, to the genesis of this illustrious fashion house.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
What, then, can we glean from the captivating narrative of the brand’s founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895–1972)? Surely, our collective understanding should be more profound, for he loomed large in the pantheon of fashion luminaries, lauded as “the master of us all” by Christian Dior and hailed by Coco Chanel as “the only couturier in the truest sense of the word,” with the cutting addendum, “The others are simply fashion designers.”
Now, we find ourselves with no excuse, as Disney+ has presented an original drama series delving into the life and lasting impact of the Spanish luminary hailing from Guetaria. With Alberto San Juan portraying Cristóbal Balenciaga, this six-episode biographical journey meticulously charts the couturier’s rise within the realm of 20th-century fashion.
Alberto San Juan in the role of Cristóbal Balenciaga. Courtesy of Disney+
Yet, would the late Cristóbal Balenciaga have countenanced the prospect of his life’s spectacle being broadcast on the small screen? An enigmatic figure of haute couture, he disdained the trappings of commercialism, eschewing even the notion of “brands.”
A scene from the Disney+ series "Cristóbal Balenciaga." Photo by David Herranz, courtesy of Disney+
It is probable that he harboured an aversion to posthumous fame, as he ardently desired his name to perish with him (a wish his family disregarded). Indeed, it is improbable that he would have condoned such a spectacle. Nonetheless, a biographical television series invariably elevates Balenciaga’s life as a work of art.
Origins Unveiled
The journey commenced in 1895 with the birth of Cristóbal Balenciaga Eizaguirre, a Basque fashion visionary, in the quaint town of Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain, amidst a humble family.
Even in his formative years, the flames of passion for fashion burned fiercely within him. Driven by this fervour, he forsook formal education at the age of 12, embarking on a trajectory that saw him apprentice as a tailor’s assistant.
Later, guided by his esteemed client and protector, the Marchioness of Casa Torres, Blanca Carrillo de Albornoz y Eliohis, he journeyed to Madrid. There, he meticulously honed his craft, dedicating himself to mastering the artistry of couture.
Success swiftly followed suit. By 1919, mere years later, he inaugurated an atelier in San Sebastián, Spain. This sartorial sanctuary burgeoned into a bastion of excellence, birthing satellite establishments in the cosmopolitan hubs of Madrid and Barcelona.
Paris, The New Maison of Cristóbal Balenciaga
Amidst the tumult of the Spanish Civil War, circumstances compelled Cristóbal Balenciaga to shutter his ateliers serving the Spanish elite and aristocracy. Relocating to Paris in 1937, he unfurled the banner of his own fashion house, debuting his inaugural collection on Avenue George V. Today, this iconic space serves as the stage for the brand’s current artistic director, Demna, to unveil his Balenciaga Couture creations and shoot campaigns.
A scene from the Disney+ series "Cristóbal Balenciaga" depicting the salon de couture on Avenue George V in Paris. Photo by David Herranz, courtesy of Disney+.
Navigating the Parisian fashion milieu presented formidable challenges, with venerable French maisons like Chanel and Dior reigning supreme. Yet, what set Balenciaga apart were his audacious stylistic gambits.
Alberto San Juan in the role of Cristóbal Balenciaga. Photo by David Herranz, courtesy of Disney+
In 1951, he revolutionised silhouettes by amplifying shoulders and discarding waistlines. Subsequently, he birthed iconic pieces, including the balloon jacket (1953), tunic dress (1955), and cocoon coat (1957), alongside the baby doll dress. Kimono coats and high-waisted ensembles of the Empire line emerged in 1959.
In the series "Cristóbal Balenciaga," Anouk Grinberg plays Coco Chanel. Photo by David Herranz, courtesy of Disney+
“Cristóbal Balenciaga is a couturier in the truest sense of the word. The others are simply fashion designers,” asserted Coco Chanel. Indeed, Balenciaga eschewed ready-to-wear collections.
A scene from the Disney+ series "Cristóbal Balenciaga." Photo by David Herranz, courtesy of Disney+
Ascending as a lodestar in the European fashion firmament, designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Pierre Cardin, and Emanuel Ungaro honed their craft in his atelier. Hubert de Givenchy, who established his own maison in 1952, counted Balenciaga as a mentor.
A scene from the Disney+ series "Cristóbal Balenciaga." Photo by David Herranz, courtesy of Disney+
Meanwhile, an illustrious clientele adorned themselves in Balenciaga’s creations. From Jackie Kennedy and Ingrid Bergman to Marella Agnelli and Pauline de Rothschild, the allure of his designs captivated the world’s elite. Grace Kelly donned a custom-made Balenciaga creation for her 40th birthday celebration, while Fabiola de Mora y Aragón, the queen consort to Baudouin of Belgium, commissioned him to design her wedding dress in 1960.
A scene from the Disney+ series "Cristóbal Balenciaga" depicting Fabiola de Mora y Aragón in her Balenciaga wedding gown. Photo by David Herranz, courtesy of Disney+
In a poignant denouement, Balenciaga presented his final collection in January 1968, before abruptly shuttering his Parisian maison that May. The closure left figures like Mona Von Bismarck bereft. Legend has it that upon hearing the news, she secluded herself in mourning for three days in her Capri villa before turning to Givenchy.
Alberto San Juan in the role of Cristóbal Balenciaga. Photo by David Herranz, courtesy of Disney+
On March 23, 1972, the retired Cristóbal Balenciaga passed away in Spain, leaving behind a legacy that lay dormant until 1986, when Jacques Bogart SA acquired the rights to Balenciaga.
Subsequent years saw a succession of creative directors, from Michel Goma to Josephus Thimister, until Nicolas Ghesquière took the helm in 1997. In 2001, Balenciaga joined the Gucci Group, later Kering, and from 2012 to 2015, Alexander Wang assumed the role of creative director before Demna’s appointment as artistic director in October 2015.
Romanticising the Life of Cristóbal Balenciaga
An enigmatic fashion legend, Cristóbal Balenciaga seldom granted interviews, save for one later in life. “He never took a bow at the end of his shows, but peeped through a hole in the curtain,” recounted writer Rhonda Lieberman.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Given his elusive nature, it’s unlikely he would have sanctioned a television series chronicling his life. However, owing to his profound impact on the fashion landscape, Disney+ deemed fitting to produce one in his honour, with the objective of spotlighting a genius perhaps unknown to many.
The poster of the Disney+ series "Cristóbal Balenciaga." Courtesy of Disney+
Now that you’ve delved deeper into the enigmatic world of Cristóbal Balenciaga, will you be tuning in to the dedicated TV series? We did, and discovered several compelling reasons why it’s worth a watch.
Firstly, the Disney+ series portrays the couturier not just as an untouchable fashion icon, but as a human being.
Secondly, the episodes offer a glimpse into a pivotal moment in fashion history, examining the rise of ready-to-wear from the ostile perspective of a couturier like Balenciaga, who vocally disparaged its inferior fabrics.
A scene from the Disney+ series "Cristóbal Balenciaga." Photo by David Herranz, courtesy of Disney+
And for us, as dedicated fashion enthusiasts, another crucial factor deserving praise is Disney+’s attention to detail in costume design: costume designers Bina Daigeler and Pepr Ruiz Dorado meticulously combed through Balenciaga’s archives, as well as those of Chanel and Dior, to recreate costumes faithful to the era, even incorporating original vintage pieces.
A scene from the Disney+ series "Cristóbal Balenciaga." Photo by David Herranz, courtesy of Disney+
Lucrezia Spina
MA alumna in Fashion Omnichannel & E-Commerce, Milan