What significant takeaways did Milano Fashion Week truly leave us with?
Winter, fashion, and Italy’s menswear FW25 trends shaping the Big Four scene
Between a handful of runway shows and many presentations, Milano Fashion Week Men’s FW25-26 was quieter, lighter, and shorter than usual. Yet, it still managed to propose ideas that define the modern, pragmatic, and product-conscious man. Functionality, comfort, tailoring, and a touch of nostalgia blended with a contemporary vision, where every trend is business-driven. It reflects an unstable market that demands caution and shuns excessive eccentricity.
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Designers—ranging from newcomers to solid confirmations and rising names—helped shape this evolving Milanese fashion landscape. A renewed focus on tailoring embraced technical garments, practical materials, and eye-catching details. Fabrics took centre stage: ultra-light carded wools, waxed textures, and fibres crafted from recycling efforts. Today’s man calls for fashion that is as adaptable as he is, exemplified by functional accessories and modular outerwear.
Take note: we’ve curated the unmissable Fall-Winter 2025/26 menswear trends from the latest Milano Moda Uomo.
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The present moment seems to weigh heavily on Miuccia Prada, who, alongside Prada’s co-creative director Raf Simons, presented a collection where the contradictions of our times seeped into the wardrobe—quite literally.
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This was a catwalk that spoke for itself, replacing streams of words with sharp, unpredictable pairings. Perfectly tailored suits were juxtaposed with faux fur, pyjamas, and Texan boots, presenting a visceral response to the dawn of the AI era.
Cultural Heritage Meets Modern Needs
Canali, embracing this era of evolution, went beyond mere clothing to tell a story—a philosophy of life, a way of being. Its collection showcased precious garments that bridged traditional craftsmanship with a contemporary sensibility, celebrating sartorial heritage while answering modern needs.
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Speaking of heritage, Dhruv Kapoor drew deeply from his Indian roots, celebrating the country’s cultural richness. Iconic garments such as the sari and dhoti trousers were reimagined through a modern design lens, demonstrating how tradition can harmoniously coexist with innovation.
The Art of Layer(ing)
Overlapping pieces defined the collections, as layers became a statement in themselves. Dolce&Gabbana, under the vision of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, turned chunky sweaters into emergency blankets, hidden beneath sophisticated coats. Oversized vests were paired with relaxed-fit trousers, creating a dialogue between pieces that felt both playful and profound.
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Designer Ludovico Bruno also embraced layering with Mordecai. His collection, The Intelligence of Others, paid homage to resilience—a reflection of today’s complexities. Bruno described the vision as “a tribute to the human spirit, its ability to adapt and reinvent without losing its essence.” The result was a blend of influences, showcasing cosmopolitan versatility and modular practicality.
Revisiting the Past to Rework Memories
Time may move forward, but designers continue to draw inspiration from the past, albeit through a lens of reinterpretation.
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For Pronounce, the show Romantic Sharpness imagined a warrior of yesteryear—a romantic figure navigating life’s imbalances, symbolised by asymmetrical tailoring and bold contrasts.
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At JordanLuca’s The Wedding—a literal celebration with the live marriage of founders Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto—the past took a punk-inspired twist. Oversized jackets were paired with sartorial staples, and bold detailing, like zippered trousers, lent a rebellious edge to traditional British tailoring.
With Velvet, Men Embrace Softness Without Losing Glamour
The modern man, unafraid of self-expression, finds confidence in velvet. Giorgio Armani’s softer interpretation proposed velvet suits as a relaxed yet elegant statement.
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Zegna’s Alessandro Sartori also embraced velvet, imbuing it with a lived-in look. Sartori’s collection paid tribute to the brand’s founder, Ermenegildo Zegna, presenting garments designed to outlast fleeting trends and seamlessly integrate into a man’s wardrobe. Sartori’s centrepiece, the Vellus Aureum—the world’s finest wool—brought luxury to the forefront.
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Pierre-Louis Mascia, making his debut show in Milan, presented a very personal take on velvet with his kimono-inspired designs. While niche, his work showcased a bold and distinctive vision.
Real or Fake? The Primitive Luxury of Furry Looks
Fur, permitted only when upcycled or vintage, and faux fur made a bold statement at Milano Fashion Week Men’s FW25/26. In truth, faux fur pieces dominated the runways, providing both warmth and an unexpected aesthetic twist.
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Dolce&Gabbana’s Paparazzi collection brought a touch of Hollywood glamour, while Prada’s storytelling leaned towards the primitive—some caveman-inspired looks reimagined for the urban hunter.
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If in doubt, opt for a furry detail! The inspiration comes directly from Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who embraced instinct and highlighted the furry collar detail for a shawl-like effect, evoking an image of the hunter or the primal man roaming the city. It’s clear: the furry collar is the new scarf.
So, How Will Men Dress in FW25-26?
Milano Fashion Week Men’s FW25/26 presented no singular aesthetic. Instead, it signalled a pause in the deconstruction of menswear, favouring a return to classicism with an emphasis on product over style. While tailored to global markets during turbulent times, this cautious approach might provide short-term safety—but is it a strategy built for longevity?
Agnese Pasquinelli
Alumna, Milano