Celebrating the Lunar New Year: The top five fashion shows inspired by Chinese culture
From Marc Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton to Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, our Shanghai correspondent spotlights the finest tributes to Chinese heritage in fashion
Have you noticed the streets awash in red? From high-street shop displays to lanterns strung along bustling avenues, the signs are unmistakable: Lunar New Year has arrived.
Also known as the Spring Festival or Chinese New Year, this is the most important holiday in China and among Chinese communities worldwide. It’s a time steeped in tradition, family gatherings, and celebration. The festivities began today, January 29, 2025, marking the start of a 15-day journey that will culminate with the Lantern Festival on February 12.
@manjushri88 Shanghai Yu Garden 2025 Snake Year Lantern Festival. #China #chineseculture #chinesenewyear #shanghai ♬ original sound - Lion
At the heart of this festival lies the Chinese zodiac, or Sheng Xiao (生肖), a 12-year cycle of animal signs based on the lunar calendar. Yesterday, we bid farewell to the Year of the Dragon and welcomed the Year of the Snake. Children born this year will be said to embody the characteristics of the Snake, including wisdom, charm, and intuition.
With festivities lasting two weeks—and sometimes even longer—filled with traditions and celebrations, this is an ideal time for us here in Shanghai to remind the global Maze35 community of how our culture and heritage infuse this season with joy and meaning. It also serves as a profound source of inspiration for the world of fashion, inspiring masterful creations.
The Top Five Moments When Chinese Culture Shaped the Luxury Runway
In the world of luxury fashion, incorporating cultural elements has emerged as a compelling way to craft designs that resonate globally. Over the years, many high-end brands—primarily Western but also from the Middle East—have drawn upon the richness of Chinese heritage, weaving its traditional motifs and techniques into their collections.
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Design elements such as intricate embroidery, cheongsam-inspired silhouettes, and auspicious symbols like dragons, snakes, and peonies, along with the vibrant colours of red and gold, these elements have graced the runways of some of the world’s most renowned luxury houses. Yet this embrace of Chinese aesthetics goes beyond mere decoration; it reflects a deeper recognition of the artistry and symbolism woven into Chinese culture.
By seamlessly merging these time-honoured traditions with contemporary design, luxury brands are not only honouring enduring heritage but also reimagining its role in modern fashion. This evolution demonstrates the industry’s growing awareness of cultural diversity, leading to collections that are both innovative and deeply anchored in tradition.
Here are five unforgettable moments when Chinese culture captivated the world’s most prestigious runways, creating pure magic.
Gucci Fall-Winter 2016/17: Alessandro Michele’s Tribute to Chinese Aesthetics
Gucci’s Fall-Winter 2016/17 women’s show, led by then-creative director Alessandro Michele, presented a striking blend of historical and cultural references, featuring nuanced yet bold allusions to Chinese aesthetics. Michele, renowned for his eclectic fusion of Renaissance opulence and vintage charm, delivered a collection that combined intricate embroidery, vibrant colour schemes, and whimsical motifs. Among the standout elements were nods to chinoiserie and dragon imagery, skilfully incorporating Asian influences. The collection garnered praise not only for its daring creativity but also for its thoughtful engagement with diverse cultural symbols. It highlighted Michele’s ability to balance global references while guiding the evolving identity of Gucci—a brand rejuvenated by a fresh, more inclusive vision that resonated with both the Zeitgeist and consumer expectations.
Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2011 by Marc Jacobs: Reimagining the Chinese Empress Through Modern Luxury
Louis Vuitton’s Spring-Summer 2011 womenswear show, designed by Marc Jacobs, blended various cultural influences, prominently featuring Chinese aesthetics alongside other global references. The collection showcased Chinese-inspired decorative motifs, such as tassels, beading, and floral designs, evoking the atmosphere of Chinese New Year celebrations. Lace-like overlays and other techniques offered a modern twist while still paying homage to traditional craftsmanship. Rich jewel tones, gold accents, and luxurious textures in both garments and accessories highlighted an opulence reminiscent of a Chinese imperial aesthetic. The collection aimed to reimagine the figure of the modern “Chinese empress,” styled with contemporary boldness. The show’s theatrical presentation merged these Chinese influences with other global themes, resulting in a uniquely eclectic runway. It not only sparked discussion on cultural representation in high fashion but also reinforced Louis Vuitton’s evolving narrative.
Gucci Twinsburg Spring-Summer 2023: When Alessandro Michele Explored Asymmetrical Reciprocity and Subtle Chinese Influences
The Gucci Twinsburg Spring-Summer 2023 show, conceived by Alessandro Michele, delved into themes of duality and individuality, exploring the notion of twinship as both a concept and a personal narrative. The collection was profoundly shaped by Michele’s own upbringing and his twin mothers, Eralda and Giuliana, who embodied the delicate balance between identity and otherness. This dynamic was central to the show’s theme of “asymmetrical reciprocity,” presenting twins wearing identical outfits to highlight subtle differences and the unique expressions that can arise even within sameness. While the show largely addressed universal themes, it also incorporated Chinese cultural references, weaving in elements that echoed Chinese aesthetics and customs. Notably, the collection included traditional Chinese prints and embroidery, seamlessly paired with leopard prints and modern streetwear elements, creating a sophisticated blend of heritage and contemporary fashion.
Chanel Paris-Shanghai Métiers d’Art Collection: Karl Lagerfeld’s Artistic Dialogue Between Chinese Culture and Western Craft
Chanel’s Paris-Shanghai Métiers d’Art collection, presented in December 2009, showcased the late Karl Lagerfeld’s imaginative interpretation of Chinese culture, merging historical references with his signature aesthetic. Held in Shanghai, the show featured a set inspired by the Pudong skyline, reflecting the city’s modern vibrancy. Lagerfeld sought to explore and reinterpret elements of Chinese heritage that have influenced Western art and design, including lacquer work, Coromandel screens, and traditional imagery. The collection included motifs such as dragon embroidery and classic Chinese silhouettes, all reimagined through Chanel’s distinct Parisian perspective, blending luxurious materials that honoured the artistry of craftsmanship. Opulent metallic brocades and a rich colour palette inspired by Chinese imperial design, prominently featuring gold, red, and black, imbued the garments with regal allure. Accessories such as pagoda hats and finely crafted jewellery further enriched the collection, paying a thematic tribute to Chinese heritage.
Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019/20: A Luxurious Fusion of Chinese Imperial Motifs and Contemporary Femininity
Elie Saab’s Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019/20 collection revealed a deep influence from East Asian, particularly Chinese, aesthetics. The catwalk prominently showcased imperial motifs and Chinese-inspired elements, which Saab reimagined with his signature luxurious craftsmanship. Through this work, Elie Saab explored themes of strength and femininity, seamlessly blending traditional Chinese artistry with a modern haute couture sensibility. The result was a thoughtful celebration of Chinese cultural elements, marked by both respect and imaginative reinterpretation.