For quite some time, a question has incessantly occupied my thoughts. It has lingered there since I started my studies in fashion, surfacing unexpectedly during various moments, be it over dinner with friends, family lunches, or even while walking with my dog in the park. This persistent question is about the intricate process of preparing a fashion show and the mysterious events that occur backstage. It embodies a peculiar form of ‘voyeurism’ that all fashion enthusiasts share, a curiosity that permeates our collective consciousness, even if we don’t discuss it openly.
Sneak peek backstage at Dhruv Kapoor's Fall-Winter 2024/25 show in Milan
As I embarked on a new journey as a fashion editor, I eagerly awaited to meet THAT luminary in the fashion world – someone intimately familiar with its inner workings yet generous enough to share their insights. Amidst the whirlwind of Milan Fashion Week’s FW24 menswear collections, it happened that IM alumnus Dhruv Kapoor showcased his distinctive fusion of exquisite craftsmanship, Indian embroideries, and global inspirations. Being a former student of Istituto Marangoni myself, I was granted unprecedented access, shadowing every step from fittings to backstage preparations leading up to the grand show. Kapoor’s celebration of a decade of his brand resonated with a poignant message of unity, encapsulated by the mantra “Better together” – a slogan that adorned both men’s and women’s wardrobes. The setup transformed the catwalk into a dynamic running track, seamlessly interweaving elements of football and rugby attire while also reimagining some of the most iconic archival pieces in the Kpr Vault capsule. Notably, Kapoor’s partnership with Nike unveiled a visionary upcycling project, breathing new life into the brand’s iconic Swoosh merchandise through innovative reinterpretations.
Dhruv Kapoor's Fall-Winter 2024/25 fitting at Istituto Marangoni school, Via Verri, Milan
Addressing the press during a preview, Dhruv Kapoor emphasised: “We cannot ignore the global landscape. However, if you witness the horizon where the sky merges with the sea at sunset, there’s a line where disparate universes converge. We navigate that line.”
But back to my journey. As someone who had never experienced a fashion show first-hand, let alone gained backstage access, I used to believe that the highlight was solely the grand spectacle of the catwalk. In my mind’s eye, I imagined it to be all about influencers, photographers, and journalists eagerly capturing every nuance for their diverse audiences. However, this assumption proved to be misguided. The true essence of a fashion show lies in the moments leading up to the spotlight’s glare – a flurry of activity where split-second decisions and meticulous planning are paramount to orchestrating such an event.
Dhruv Kapoor's Fall-Winter 2024/25 fitting at Istituto Marangoni school, Via Verri, Milan
Fittings: Where Magic Happens
A few days before the big day, I visited Istituto Marangoni in Milan, where a special room was set up for the models’ fittings for Dhruv Kapoor’s FW24 show.
During this delicate phase, I observed how the clothes came to life on the models and how decisions were made regarding their makeup, hairstyle, and accessories. I learned that each garment is usually modified on this important day, with adjustments made directly on the model’s body to perfect the fit and translate the designer’s vision to life.
The room was busy with various individuals performing their respective tasks. The assistants diligently ironed the garments, while the dressers and other team members helped the models wear the clothes and perfect the fit. Meanwhile, photographers selected the best images to use as a guide for the show.
At this crucial moment, I witnessed Dhruv Kapoor’s meticulous attention to detail in ensuring the perfect execution of the plan he had conceived months earlier. He gave his final approval to each look, making sure that everything was just right.
Dhruv Kapoor meticulously reviewing the lineup during the fitting at Istituto Marangoni Milano, Via Verri
Once the model’s ideal look, makeup, and hairstyle were achieved, a photo was taken as a reference for backstage personnel on the big day. The arrangement of accessories and shoes and the sight of exquisitely crafted clothes, elegantly hung and organised by look, was truly captivating, adding to the enchantment and anticipation for a fashion show that promised to be nothing short of breath-taking.
In this whirlwind of emotions, I exited the room to ensure minimal disruption to the workflow.
Backstage: The Secret Place to Be
The rehearsal phase was a crescendo of emotions, brimming with excitement. The venue immediately conveyed an intention to blend the old with the new, merging streetwear and couture in a triumphant fusion of styles. The pre-show sounds resembled those of a sports competition, further enhancing the desired atmosphere.
Sneak peek backstage at Dhruv Kapoor's Fall-Winter 2024/25 show in Milan
Backstage, tension lingered, accompanied by a growing number of individuals, including makeup artists, hairdressers, stylists, dressers, photographers, and numerous other assistants.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
During Dhruv Kapoor’s show at Milano Fashion Week Men’s FW24/25, the coordination was impeccable, with models sticking to the instructions regarding their pace on the catwalk, the spacing between them, and other details managed by the backstage coordinators.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
It was thrilling to see some of the looks previously witnessed during fittings now gracing the runway, occasionally worn by a different model and paired with hairstyles that perfectly complemented the chosen outfits.
The atmosphere was indescribable, as the front row was filled with a stylish crew of insiders, influencers, celebrities, and editors seated in the front row, creating a magical aura in the venue as they shared their opinions on which outfits were the most stunning.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
The finale was over in a flash, with Dhruv Kapoor stepping out to greet the audience before disappearing backstage, accompanied by notable figures like Sara Maino and Anna Dello Russo, ready to extend their compliments personally.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
Lucrezia Spina
MA alumna in Fashion Omnichannel & E-Commerce, Milan