Radical, subversive, and impossible to ignore: these designers are commanding the spotlight in fashion’s capital, from the club to the catwalk
Paris is synonymous with luxury fashion and influential groups like LVMH and Kering, which are home to prestigious maisons such as Dior and Saint Laurent. But beyond the grandeur of Avenue Montaigne and the ateliers of the Marais, a new wave of independent designers is rewriting the city’s fashion landscape. While not all are Parisian by birth, these labels are leaving a lasting impact by showcasing their collections in the French capital. Rooted in subcultural movements and embracing a fearless approach to self-expression, they prove that fashion is not just about clothing—it is about identity, attitude, and rebellion. Their creations resonate through club culture, captivate celebrity stylists, and fascinate the art world, making them four names to watch.
Vaquera
Known for its raw, rebellious, and unapologetically subversive approach, Vaquera is a New York-based brand that blurs the lines between high fashion and DIY aesthetics. Founded by Patric DiCaprio in 2013, the brand later welcomed Bryn Taubensee on board. The duo describes their vision as “fashion fan fiction”, reinterpreting classic silhouettes with exaggerated proportions and a touch of humour.
In 2019, Vaquera faced financial challenges and considered closing down, but support from Adrian Joffe of Comme des Garçons led to a key partnership with Dover Street Market. The duo officially joined the DSM Paris showroom and incubator programme, debuting their Spring-Summer 2023 collection in Paris in 2022.
Vaquera’s avant-garde style, paired with a devoted following of alternative fashion and underground culture, has established the brand as one to watch, with high-profile celebrities like Charli XCX, Doja Cat, and Rosalía showing their love. Most recently, Rosalía herself celebrated her 32nd birthday during Paris Fashion Week at Hôtel Particulier in Montmartre, clad in a full Vaquera outfit, including the brand’s signature bubble skirt.
Just days ago, Vaquera collaborated with Dsquared2 during Milano Fashion Week, delivering a powerful show that blended theatrical proportions with rebellious energy, setting high expectations for their Fall-Winter 2025/26 collection.
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Pressiat
Pressiat is renowned for its fearless exploration of genderless fashion, merging elegance with modern provocation. Founded in Paris during lockdown by Vincent Garnier Pressiat, the brand quickly garnered recognition from fashion magazines like Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Numéro, positioning itself as a prominent player in the new wave of avant-garde designers.
Celebrity stylists have fully embraced Pressiat’s striking, statement-making designs, dressing stars like Rita Ora, Bad Bunny, and the rising rock sensation, the Italian band Måneskin.
There is a clear appreciation for the brand’s tailoring, crafted with meticulous attention to detail—a skill honed by Garnier Pressiat during his tenure at Balmain, Saint Laurent, and Maison Margiela, where he worked closely with John Galliano. His designs are both structured and fluid, creating an armour for those unafraid to take on the world. As Pressiat states, “I love strong women who are not afraid of anything. I create armours for them to fiercely take over the world.”
Take, for example, Pressiat’s recent Autumn-Winter 2024/25 show, with Jean Paul Gaultier in the front row and Julia Fox on the runway. In this show, the brand pushed creative boundaries with repurposed tyres—which were also used to create an innovative fabric for a gown in the collection. The tyre theme extended beyond individual pieces, influencing the show’s scenery and leaving a memorable impression on a white skirt—an evocative nod to Alexander McQueen’s legendary Spring-Summer 1995 collection.
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Jitrois
Jitrois is not an emerging brand but it’s still evolving. It has long been synonymous with innovation, becoming the definitive symbol of leather couture since the ‘90s. Its founder, Jean-Claude Jitrois, revolutionised fashion with stretch leather, creating garments that fit like a second skin while maintaining a commitment to precision tailoring.
Over the years, Jitrois’ signature style has been immortalised by renowned photographers such as Helmut Newton, solidifying its iconic status. Though the brand has a long history and counts stars like Beyoncé and Lady Gaga among its fans, it has recently gained popularity among the fashion scene’s cool crowd. FKA twigs, a globally celebrated artist known for her love for the underground style, is a devoted fan of the brand and was often seen wearing Jitrois—from her ongoing club tour to a press event for The Crow in New York, where she sported red leather Wynn Skin jeans.
A growing number of young personalities with a taste for eccentric and dark aesthetics are also turning to Jitrois, including Paris-based stylist Nikita Vlassenko, who describes the brand’s garments as “kinky yet elegant.” In their latest presentation, Jitrois continues to push boundaries, appealing to a younger audience while staying true to its legacy of craftsmanship and bold self-expression. Be sure not to miss their show on Friday, March 7th, from 2 pm.
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Matières Fécales
Matières Fécales is a provocative name for a duo known for pushing the boundaries of fashion, challenging conventional aesthetics with their raw, grotesque, and provocative designs. The visionary content creators, performance artists and DJs behind this provocative brand are the alien-looking couple of Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran. They openly reject mainstream beauty ideals, instead embracing distortion and excess to create an almost unsettling vision that merges fashion with performance art.
Their work often clashes with traditional spaces—notably, they were denied entry to Beijing’s Forbidden City for their unconventional attire. Despite this, they have achieved worldwide recognition in just a few years. They have collaborated with major names in fashion and beyond, including Rick Owens, his muse Michèle Lamy, and Diane Pernet at her ASVOFF film festival. FKA twigs is a frequent supporter, regularly seen wearing their designs, which has helped cement the brand’s cult following.
Recently, Matières Fécales announced their debut at Paris Fashion Week, unveiling their first full collection, which marks a breakthrough moment for their community. On Instagram, they teased the event as “an iconic lineup featuring all our close friends and collaborators from our decade-long journey of self-expression. It’s not just a regular fashion party—it’s a Matières Fécales fashion party.” Be sure to catch their debut fashion show on the official Paris Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2025/26 schedule, set for Friday, March 7th, starting at 2 pm.
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