From olfactory marketing to AI, scent rules our industries. But can technology ever match the emotional depth of human perception?
How significant is our sense of smell today? This question took root in my mind after a discussion at Esxence in Milan, where anthropologist, philosopher, and author Annick Le Guérer spoke with psychologist Mariateresa Z. Marsi, an expert in integrating psychotherapy with scent and perfume.
A snapshot from the Esxence event in Milan.
According to Le Guérer, smell, once dismissed as a “lower” sense and even scorned throughout history, is now experiencing a renaissance. In centuries past, engaging with scent was seen as crude and primitive. Sigmund Freud, the father of psychoanalysis, argued that the human-animal divide was marked by the sense of smell, relegating it to the realm of the “uncivilised.” However, today, scent has not only regained its dignity but has also become a driving force enabling businesses to thrive, from luxury brands expanding into high-end perfumery to retail spaces infused with signature fragrances that engage consumers. The reason for this resurgence lies in its deep, undeniable connection to emotion and well-being—an alliance that has only grown stronger in recent decades.
The Rise of Aromatherapy from Folk Remedy to Science
The term “aromatherapy” was first coined by French chemist René-Maurice Gattefossé in 1928, but it wasn’t until later, with figures like Dr. Jean Valnet, that olfaction gained recognition for its therapeutic potential. Valnet’s pioneering work, along with his book The Practice of Aromatherapy, transformed the sense of smell from a folk remedy into a scientifically recognised tool for health and wellness. Today, the use of essential oils to enhance both physical and mental well-being is widely accepted and embraced.
View this post on Instagram
The Power of Scent: How Olfactory Marketing and Perfume-Integrated Art are Shaping Our Experiences
How often has the fragrance of a forest, the ocean, or a freshly brewed cup of coffee lifted your mood or triggered a memory? This highlights the deep connection between our sense of smell and our emotions. It’s no surprise that brands have seized upon this powerful link through olfactory marketing, which uses scent to influence consumer behaviour. Over the years, perfume houses have developed signature scents designed to evoke specific feelings or atmospheres. From hotel lobbies to cafés and boutique stores, scent has become an invisible yet pervasive branding tool that shapes the customer experience.
View this post on Instagram
Yet, scent is far from limited to the commercial sphere. In the world of art, fragrances are increasingly being incorporated into performances, installations, and ballets, becoming part of a sensory language and fostering a dialogue between smell, sight, and sound.
Is the Future of Fragrances in the Digitalisation of Scent and Olfactory Teleportation?
Now, picture a future where you can share the fragrance of your new perfume with a friend halfway around the globe—virtually and instantly. It may sound like science fiction, but the digitalisation of smell is closer than we think. Once overlooked, olfaction is now gaining attention thanks to emerging technologies.
At the conference, Mariateresa Z. Marsi highlighted an innovative project by OSMO, a startup focused on machine olfaction with the mission of digitising scent. They are pioneering efforts to replicate and transmit scents using AI and molecular formulation. The “read-map-write” process essentially breaks down olfactory molecules, categorises them, and then reconstructs them via AI algorithms and machine learning. In a sense, it’s like digital “scent teleportation.” The idea that we can replicate and share olfactory experiences through technology is rapidly transitioning from fantasy to reality.
View this post on Instagram
As we stand on the brink of this new olfactory frontier, one thought lingers. While AI may soon be able to recreate scents, it will still inevitably miss something fundamental—the emotional and personal context that makes a fragrance truly unique. The human nose does more than serve a biological function; it holds memories, cultural significance, and emotional depth, turning each scent into an experience that goes beyond mere molecules.
So, I find myself wondering what will set a perfumer’s nose apart from a digital platform. One thing is clear: in the world of fragrance, emotions play a crucial role, and they always will.
Silvia Tarini
Editor, Milan