Curious how Mugler’s futuristic glamour and theatrical bravado influenced Alaïa’s pursuit of perfection? This Paris exhibition answers
The deep friendship and mutual admiration between Alaïa and Mugler take centre stage in the exhibition “Azzedine Alaïa, Thierry Mugler 1980-1990 Two Decades of Artistic Affinities,” currently on display at the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris.
Timed to coincide with Paris Fashion Week, the exhibition offers a striking exploration of the 1980s and ‘90s archives, pairing magnificently structured pieces that showcase Mugler’s theatrical bravado and futuristic glamour, as well as Alaïa’s relentless pursuit of perfection and discreet luxury.
Detail from the "Azzedine Alaïa, Thierry Mugler 1980-1990 Two Decades of Artistic Affinities" exhibition in Paris. Photo courtesy of the author
But why focus on these two couturiers? Under the curatorship of Olivier Saillard, the exhibition highlights a long-standing relationship. In the early days, Azzedine Alaïa’s expertise was sought not only by the elegant women of the era but also by fellow designers who knew they could rely on him to refine complex designs or lend a hand with collections in need of finishing touches. This was certainly true for Yves Saint Laurent, but also for Thierry Mugler, whom Alaïa met in 1979. The two formed a close bond, with Mugler playing a key role in kickstarting and supporting Alaïa’s career, the creation of his own fashion house and its development with unwavering dedication.
Three outfits currently on display at the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa in Paris. Photo courtesy of the author
Contemporaries and friends, both designers passed within six years of each other, maintaining deep respect for one another’s careers throughout their lives. Alaïa, in particular, preserved over 200 Thierry Mugler creations, around 40 of which are displayed in this exhibition, presented alongside Alaïa’s own archives.
How a Long-Lasting Friendship Led Alaïa into Fashion, Under Mugler’s Wing
Thierry Mugler was instrumental in encouraging Azzedine Alaïa to pursue a career as a designer. In fact, Maison Alaïa came into being in Paris in 1956 after Mugler invited him to create a series of tuxedos for his autumn-winter 1979/80 collection.
An ensemble from the exhibition curated by Olivier Saillard, featuring a structured jacket with sculpted lines and a flared skirt. Photo courtesy of the author
As curator Olivier Saillard recounts, “In 1982, at the request of the American department store Bergdorf Goodman, Alaïa presented a show in New York. It was Mugler who persuaded him to do so, Alaïa imagining that the invitation was a joke! The designer, friend and admirer accompanied him, organised and built the show himself, answered and translated interviews, and supported his comrade in the smallest tasks, for which he was eternally grateful.”
“I helped him with the administration to officially set up his label” – Thierry Mugler, referring to Azzedine Alaïa
Their friendship extended beyond fashion. “In the summer, they spent their holidays together in Tunisia at the home of lifelong friends Latifa and Leila Menchari,” Saillard adds.
Detail from the exhibition. Photo courtesy of the author
The Female Form as Art: A Creative Synergy Between Two Couturiers
The exhibition “Azzedine Alaïa, Thierry Mugler 1980-1990 Two Decades Of Artistic Affinities”, where fashion meets fashion, celebrates the female body as a form of art. The exquisite architectural garments on display from the archives reveal just how modern and timeless both designers were in their own distinct ways.
“We have been very influenced by each other” – Thierry Mugler
Thierry Mugler, known for his grandiose shows, and Azzedine Alaïa, celebrated for his technical virtuosity, both sought to celebrate women by enhancing their sensuality and mystery. Through their creations, they infused glamour into the female form—without excess or missteps—capturing the essence of haute couture at its finest.
Two evening gowns from the "Azzedine Alaïa, Thierry Mugler 1980-1990 Two Decades of Artistic Affinities" exhibition, showcasing glamorous silhouettes and metallic textures. Photo courtesy of the author
A Common Language That Redefined Glamour
The similarities between the two designers are evident in their work: they favoured structural yet elegant silhouettes, meticulously crafted with extraordinary attention to detail.
As noted by Saillard, Alaïa and Mugler were companions for a decade, influencing each other’s styles and allowing their artistic visions to intertwine. In the 1980s, they both elevated women to an almost divine status, drawing inspiration from Hollywood glamour and the revival of old-world elegance—far removed from the folk-inspired fashions of the 1970s.
A glimpse of the must-see exhibition in Paris, where the works of Azzedine Alaïa and Thierry Mugler come into dialogue. Photo courtesy of the author
They shared a common silhouette characterised by broad shoulders, cinched waists, and voluptuous hips, evoking memories and fantasies of the 1930s and 1950s, with the couturiers Adrian, Jacques Fath, Christian Dior, and Cristóbal Balenciaga at the forefront.
“Since our meeting, my clothes have been less abstract and more in touch with reality; the body feels more at ease in them, and his are something more striking (...) I think that with me, Azzedine has been able to free himself, let’s say, to move towards suits with more ergonomic, sinuous lines” – Thierry Mugler
And yet, despite these shared sensibilities, their differences complemented each other. Mugler’s flamboyant, larger-than-life presentations—such as his 1984 show in Paris—stood in contrast to Alaïa’s intimate approach to perfectionism, which rejected the rigid constraints of the fashion calendar.
Detail from the exhibition. Photo courtesy of the author
Their design philosophies also diverged. Alaïa was a master of cut and construction, creating form-fitting pieces that exemplified precision, while Mugler embraced avant-garde, dramatic silhouettes that pushed boundaries. Alaïa’s preferred colour palette is evident throughout the exhibition, where Mugler’s bold, audacious tones also make a striking statement.
Exhibition curated by Olivier Saillard, “Azzedine Alaïa, Thierry Mugler 1980-1990 Two Decades of Artistic Affinities,” is currently on display at the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, 18 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris, through 29 June 2025.
Clara Fernandes Rech
Master in Fashion Promotion, Communication & Digital Media, Paris