One question remains: can this predominantly white event truly celebrate Black style without slipping into cultural appropriation?
A Turning Point for Fashion’s Biggest Night?
Let’s get straight to the point: the upcoming Met Gala could very well be the most significant in its history. For those unfamiliar with the fashion system, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” is the Costume Institute’s spring 2025 exhibition, set to open at The Met Fifth Avenue on May 10, 2025. This exhibition promises a cultural and historical exploration of Black dandyism, tracing its origins in Enlightenment-era Europe to its modern-day incarnations in cities like London, New York, and Paris. Naturally, it will also influence the highly anticipated 2025 Met Gala.
@metmuseum Replying to @Wyleisha 2025 Met Gala co-chair Lewis Hamilton expands on what fashion and art mean to him. “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” opens to the public on May 10 and will be celebrated at the 2025 Met Gala on May 5. #SuperfineStyle #MetGala2025 #fashion ♬ Vlog Video work Fashionable BGM(847726) - Tsuyoshi_san
The Costume Institute Benefit, commonly known as The Met Gala, is scheduled for May 5, 2025. Anna Wintour will once again preside over the event, and this year, she will be joined by four outstanding representatives of the BIPOC creative community: Louis Vuitton menswear’s creative director Pharrell Williams, F1 legend Lewis Hamilton, musician A$AP Rocky, and actor Colman Domingo. Additionally, NBA star LeBron James will serve as an honorary co-chair, marking his debut on the iconic steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
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These co-chairs aren’t just accomplished in their respective fields, but they have also made notable contributions to fashion. They consistently showcase standout looks at Fashion Weeks, the Grammys, the Oscars, and beyond. For instance, Lewis Hamilton recently collaborated with Dior’s menswear artistic director, Kim Jones. Also, four-time NBA champion LeBron James was featured in the Louis Vuitton men’s Spring-Summer 2024 campaign conceptualised by Pharrell Williams.
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The 2025 dress code will be announced early next year. Fashion insiders are already buzzing with anticipation for this iconic event, which also serves as a fundraiser for the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, held annually on the first Monday in May.
Fashion, History, and the Black Dandy
The 2025 exhibition is inspired by Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.” Miller, who was a guest on the “Dressed: The History of Fashion” podcast in 2018, explained how the social hierarchy of 18th-century England was reflected in material goods. At the time, the Atlantic slave trade and a growing culture of conspicuous consumption led to a trend in highly educated and dandified Black servants, who became valued symbols of status. These individuals, labelled “luxury slaves,” creatively customised their uniforms, gaining recognition for their sense of style and distinctive personalities.
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Miller’s work explores how Black individuals have historically used the dandy’s signature tools—clothing, gesture, and wit—to challenge societal norms and create new political and social opportunities in the Black Atlantic world. This tradition of using fashion as a form of resistance and self-expression is central to Black dandyism, particularly among Black men who have long demanded respect through their attire.
Can Fashion Avoid Cultural Appropriation?
Black creativity has always been a driving force in art, fashion, sports, and music. From DJ Grand Wizzard Theodore’s invention of record scratching in the late 1970s to the 1985 debut of Michael Jordan’s Air Jordans, and even further back with the creation of jazz by African Americans, epitomised by icons like Miles Davis, the contributions of Black culture are profound and enduring.
Through centuries, fashion has remained a powerful medium for Black individuals to express their identity and creativity.
The 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, running from May 10 to October 26, will chart a timeline of key moments in Black dandyism, showcasing how art and fashion have long been intertwined with this rich tradition.
Yet, as we approach the 2025 Met Gala, there is a lingering question: can an event that has been primarily white-dominated truly celebrate Black men’s style without falling into the trap of cultural appropriation? This is one of the key conversations the fashion world will need to address in 2025.
Clara F. Rech
MA in Fashion Promotion, Communication & Digital Media, Paris