Alessandro Michele’s Valentino sets two annual co-ed ready-to-wear shows and one couture show, prioritising creativity and cost-efficiency
In today’s luxury market, the balance between cost optimisation and creativity is more crucial than ever. Valentino, one of fashion’s most iconic brands, owned by Mayhoola and Kering, has been making bold changes since Alessandro Michele was appointed as its creative director.
Alessandro Michele, Creative Director of Valentino. Photo by Fabio Lovino, courtesy of Valentino
Valentino’s Bold Shift: Fewer Shows, Greater Impact
The latest daring move? The brand has just announced that it will no longer hold its bi-annual menswear shows and its Spring-Summer haute couture presentations. Instead, the Roman fashion house will showcase co-ed ready-to-wear collections during Paris’ womenswear season and reduce its couture shows to just one per year.
Alessandro Michele’s Vision: Co-Ed and Gender-Fluid
The future of Valentino’s menswear ready-to-wear presentations has been somewhat uncertain ever since Alessandro Michele took over as creative director in March. Known for his innovative co-ed, gender-fluid shows during his tenure at Gucci, Michele’s influence is already becoming evident at Valentino.
View this post on Instagram
Cutting Couture: Streamlined Presentations, More Craftsmanship
In a statement, Valentino explained that fewer couture shows will “pave the way for true and unbounded artistic inspiration.” The reduction in shows will allow more time to perfect the intricate craftsmanship that haute couture demands, making each presentation even more luxurious and exclusive.
The Impact of COVID-19: A Temporary Slowdown
Valentino briefly scaled back its fashion shows under former creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli during the pandemic, relocating some to Italy and postponing others.
By 2022 and 2023, the brand had resumed its pre-pandemic schedule, hosting six shows annually (two for womenswear, two for menswear, and two for haute couture), primarily in Paris. While this frequency emphasised Valentino’s couture identity and created numerous marketing opportunities, it occasionally felt overwhelming.
Financial Efficiency Meets Creative Freedom
Now, with their newly reduced calendar, the question remains: will Alessandro Michele’s new Valentino be able to stay top-of-mind for customers and the fashion industry with fewer shows?
During his time at Gucci, Michele’s co-ed shows allowed him to showcase his boundary-pushing ideas about gender and fashion. However, having only two shows a year often led to excessively large collections rather than sharp, concise, and well-curated statements.
@hypebae The designer vs the designs. 🤌 Alessandro Michele’s best @Gucci moments. Link in bio for our full list. 🔥 #alessandromichele #gucci #fashionshow #guccitwinsburg #thedesignervsthedesign ♬ original sound - <3
Valentino’s owners, Mayhoola and Kering (the latter also being Gucci’s parent company), are likely to welcome this shift. With luxury demand slowing in most major markets, streamlining the show schedule is expected to bring substantial cost savings while maintaining the brand’s prestige.
A Blueprint for the Future of Luxury Fashion
In a world where luxury brands must adapt to shifting market dynamics, Valentino’s move could serve as a blueprint for how to balance creativity, exclusivity, and financial acumen in the evolving fashion landscape.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master’s Programme Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan