As a rising fashion capital, the city aims to sit alongside the Big Four as a significant global player. Is DFW reaching its goal?
Recognised as the fashion hub of the Middle East, Dubai is carving out its place on the international luxury stage. While traditional fashion capitals like Paris, Milan, London, and New York still hold prominence, a new narrative is unfolding with Dubai Fashion Week, which now runs from September 1 to 7.
Formerly known as Arab Fashion Week, it held 21 editions in the city between 2015 and 2022 before rebranding as Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) in early 2023, with the first Autumn-Winter 2023/24 edition taking place in March of that year.
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Now entering its fourth season, DFW has typically been held in mid-October, but this edition was one of the first to kick off this season. It launched just a day after Ukrainian Fashion Week, coinciding with Tokyo's schedule and preceding the first of the Big Four: New York.
This season, the event featured 30 brands, up from 25 in the last edition. The lineup showcased a mix of local talent, including Mrs Keepa, Dubai-based Filipino couture designer Michael Cinco, and size-inclusive designer Dima Ayad, along with designers from Europe, South America, and Africa. Regulars on the DFW roster, such as Malaysia’s Rizman Ruzaini and Paris-based Weinsanto, also made their return.
Each year, Dubai Fashion Week chooses one international luxury brand to be the “guest of honour,” and for this edition, that spotlight fell on Roberto Cavalli (following Carolina Herrera last season).
For international brands, the significance of Dubai Fashion Week extends beyond simply showcasing a new collection on the runway: it’s a vital opportunity to gain visibility in the Arab region, which is among the world’s top three most valuable markets. Dubai Mall, for example, is one of the largest shopping destinations globally, with over 1,200 stores, including renowned Western fashion houses and department giants like Galeries Lafayette and Bloomingdale’s.
In Dubai, everything is larger than life, from its ultra-modern aesthetic to its deep-rooted connection to high-end luxury, and fashion is no exception.
Fausto Puglisi’s Interpretation of Roberto Cavalli’s Icons at Dubai Fashion Week
A standout moment in this year’s Dubai Fashion Week was Roberto Cavalli’s showcase on September 6.
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This runway presentation was more than just a display—it was a statement. Creative Director Fausto Puglisi showcased a curated selection of bright-hued pieces now available in the region. In an interview with Harper’s Bazaar Arabia, Pugliesi explained: “I wanted to delve into two of Roberto Cavalli’s iconic prints: the roses and the zebra patterns that evoke that glorious era of the early 2000s. These prints are so iconic that I reinterpreted them through my own vision, considering today’s women. I aimed for a bit of a ‘ping pong’: there’s the classic Cavalli sexy woman, but I’ve added suits and caftans. I love Dubai, a place where you can embrace classic style while living in the future.”
The Italian brand, synonymous with daring luxury, sensuality, and boldness, aligns perfectly with Dubai’s glamorous vision. It’s no coincidence that Cavalli, renowned for its animal prints and captivating silhouettes, has found a second home here.
Dubai’s Context: Where Fashion Transcends Western Influence
But there’s more to it. Dubai’s modernity, its connection to Arab traditions, and its strategic location at the crossroads of Europe, Asia, and Africa make it a natural hub for future global trends.
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While established fashion weeks tend to present collections steeped in Western perspectives, the emerging Dubai Fashion Week offers a fresh blend of Western and Eastern influences. This event is crucial for both Middle Eastern designers and international fashion houses. It provides a platform for regional talent to showcase their unique identity on a grand scale while attracting interest from global buyers. Before DFW, Middle Eastern designers had to invest in Paris showrooms to appeal to department stores, but having their own fashion week is beginning to change this dynamic. Additionally, European and American brands showcasing at DFW not only gain access to a pivotal market but also gain valuable insight into the preferences of women in this region, highlighting the demand for fashion that goes beyond their Western perspective.
Dubai and Fashion: The Future Starts Now
Dubai Fashion Week is far more than a single event in the fashion calendar; it embodies the spirit of a city that is rapidly evolving, one that refuses to be a mere spectator and instead strives to be a major player.
DFW illustrates that fashion in Dubai isn’t just about clothing—it’s about creating a new narrative that blends the East and West in a way that commands attention. And if there’s one place where the future of this fusion feels already tangible, it’s undoubtedly Dubai.
Agnese Pasquinelli
Master student, Milano