Despite doubts, NYFW proved it’s alive and thriving. Beyond guest designers and big names, meet the new generation reshaping the scene
This year, New York Fashion Week (NYFW) captured the global spotlight, reaffirming its place as one of the Big Four. Despite recent murmurs of decline compared to Milan and Paris, the Big Apple proved it still has plenty to say.
With a sharp blend of established local designers, shows that explored the idea of America, an exciting wave of emerging talent, and a roster of high-profile guest designers, NYFW demanded the world’s attention.
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This season’s success wasn’t down to luck. The spotlight on NYFW was driven by a significant rebound in the American market, along with a sense of expansion and optimism across New York, further intensified by the buzz surrounding the upcoming elections.
Veteran brand Ralph Lauren hosted an exclusive showcase in Bridgehampton, featuring a one-night-only faithful recreation of The Polo Bar. Tommy Hilfiger amped up the excitement with a surprise Wu-Tang Clan performance on a retired Staten Island ferry. Meanwhile, Paris-based brands Alaïa and Off-White added to the energy of NYFW, attracting industry heavyweights such as Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, and Rihanna.
Yet it wasn’t just the well-known names, whether guests or NYC locals, that made an impression. Up-and-coming brands seized the momentum, leveraging the hype to grab media attention and carve out their space in the American market and beyond. Amid the excitement in the fashion world, which new generation of designers has sparked the most conversation on social media and captivated insiders, both online and in person?
Willy Chavarria’s América: A Powerful Tribute to Immigrant Voices at NYFW
What was the standout show of the season? That honour goes to Willy Chavarria, an American fashion designer who lit up the runway with his Spring-Summer 2025 co-ed collection, aptly titled América. “It’s the pronunciation of America through the voices of immigrants,” Chavarria explained backstage.
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In this collection, Willy Chavarria sought to celebrate the joy and beauty of sharing the stories of the people who live in America and work to feed the country. He used this opportunity to remind everyone that they have the right to be here and the power to make a difference through voting.
For his SS25 show, the designer brought the aesthetics of Huron, California—a Mexican-American farming community where he grew up—into the very heart of influence, even incorporating copies of the U.S. Constitution as a tribute.
The show opened with a stirring rendition of Querida, a love ballad by Mexican artist Juan Gabriel, setting the mood for a series of garments that blended the rugged elegance of American workwear with a distinctive South American touch. The result was a wardrobe that felt both sophisticated and deeply grounded in cultural storytelling.
Rachel Scott’s Diotima: Caribbean Dream at Its Finest
Diotima, the brand founded by Jamaican designer Rachel Scott, a Fashion Design graduate from Istituto Marangoni Milano, chose to celebrate Caribbean fashion through a romantic presentation rather than a traditional runway show.
Despite being a relatively new player in the fashion industry, Scott has already earned prestigious accolades, including the 2023 CFDA Emerging Designer Award and a place as a finalist for the 2023 LVMH Prize. Her acclaim is largely attributed to her crochet creations, which are handmade in Jamaica and widely admired.
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For the Diotima SS25 collection, the designer embraced the theme of the Caribbean Dream, paying homage to everything from Sunday church services and revivalist rituals to dancehall parties and the Caribbean Sea. The collection showcased shirts, vests, and Bermuda shorts embellished with floral embroidery cut-outs alongside her signature draped crochet tops and dresses.
Ex-The Row Colleen Allen: Victorian Lingerie with a Twist
Formerly at The Row, designer Colleen Allen has captivated the fashion world with her SS25 collection under her eponymous brand, following last season’s debut of witchy, Victorian-inspired underpinnings rendered in technical fabrics like fleece.
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While this runway’s references also drew from Victorian lingerie, Allen introduced a creative twist: fleece corset jackets that can be bustled or flipped inside out alongside a lighter cotton poplin version. She further reinvented a 2024 trend with capri trousers adorned with delicate, lingerie-inspired hem details, showcasing her distinctive design flair. Allen described these garments as part of an evolution, likening them to “baby chicks moulting.” This vision came to life through ruffled tulle and rosettes on sheer tulle tops and dresses.
The show’s pièce de résistance? The sheer bloomers with rosette detailing at the waist—an element bound to captivate the hearts of hyperfeminine fashion enthusiasts.
Kallmeyer’s Debut Runway: A Timeless Approach with Modular, Not Overly Trendy Pieces
Last but certainly not least is the Spring-Summer 2025 collection from New York-based fashion designer, artist, and art director Daniella Kallmeyer. Her debut show took place in a setting reminiscent of a red velvet jewellery box. It was an intimate event hosted at the Midtown flagship of Apparatus, an interdisciplinary design studio known for its exploration of the interplay between lighting, furniture, objects, and spaces.
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“Her work is about life and how to dress for it,” noted WWD. “She often talks nuances, how a person gestures or walks into a room; it’s these considered moments that make her clothing so strong.”
Maintaining her distinctive, understated vision of fashion, Kallmeyer’s collection this season extended her signature polished yet relaxed tailoring. It featured a lighter approach, with blazers paired with diaphanous skirts and a notable emphasis on denim.
Lucrezia Spina
Editor