Gucci’s creative directors: Genius, turmoil and financial challenges
From Gucci’s 1920s origins to Sabato De Sarno’s departure, we explore the key moments that defined the brand’s DNA
When thinking of Gucci, many things come to mind, depending on which Gucci period resonates with you. From Guccio Gucci to Sabato De Sarno, from the Tom Ford iconic era to Alessandro Michele’s eclectic quake, let’s explore the foundational pillars that have shaped the Gucci myth.
The “Founding” Era and the Equestrian Gucci Heritage: From Guccio Gucci to Dawn Mello
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The founder, Guccio Gucci, established a classic and elegant style inspired by the equestrian world and Italian craftsmanship. In 1921, he opened a shop in Florence, where he initially sold leather luggage, emphasising the importance of bags and accessories in the brand’s heritage. In 1947, he introduced the Bamboo bag, and just a few years later, in 1953, the iconic loafer was launched. Today, this loafer is part of MoMA’s permanent collection and recognised as a symbol of creativity in fashion design.
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Guccio Gucci’s son, Aldo, further expanded the brand’s offerings by introducing new product categories and the double-G logo, a tribute to his father’s initials. During this time, the style evolved to become more modern and luxury-oriented, helping to elevate Gucci to global recognition.
In the 1980s, following a tumultuous family feud, former Bergdorf Goodman fashion director Dawn Mello was brought in to relaunch Gucci with a fresh global perspective. From 1989 to 1994, she expertly preserved the brand’s exclusivity while honouring the founder’s philosophy: “Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten.” Mello reduced the number of stores, refocused on craftsmanship, and restored the prestige of iconic items like the Bamboo bag and the Gucci loafer. Through these efforts, she successfully positioned Gucci as a high-end, globally recognised luxury brand.
The Era of Sensual Minimalism: Tom Ford (and Frida Giannini)
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Tom Ford was appointed Gucci’s creative director in 1994, and he played a key role in ushering the brand into the new millennium with a blend of sensuality, audacity, and a glamorous, provocative style. From 1994 to 2004, Ford’s tenure was defined by tight silhouettes, plunging necklines, and luxurious fabrics like velvet and satin. Iconic accessories such as the Hysteria bag, sky-high stiletto heels, and oversized sunglasses became synonymous with his vision. His memorable collections solidified the brand’s identity, famously incorporating silk jersey dresses and fur details.
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After a brief transitional period with Alessandra Facchinetti in 2005, who moved from Gucci’s accessories division to take over the creative direction for a year, Frida Giannini succeeded her. Giannini reinterpreted the house’s aesthetic codes in a modern way, placing particular emphasis on artisanal tradition and sartorial craftsmanship.
For nearly a decade, Giannini upheld Gucci’s legacy, ensuring that its style remained recognisable and closely linked to the original essence of its heritage. She reimagined classic Gucci elements, such as the horsebit motif, revamped the New Bamboo bag, and drew inspiration from the equestrian world to shape her collections.
The Disruptive Maximalism of Alessandro Michele
Then came the disruptive genius of Alessandro Michele, tearing down minimalism and embracing a whirlwind of vintage extravagance, perfectly aligning with the boldness sought by Gen Z and Millennials.
From 2015 to 2023, Michele radically transformed the Kering-owned brand’s identity, adopting an eclectic, maximalist style brimming with cultural and historical references while placing a strong emphasis on gender fluidity and inclusivity. His visionary and audacious creative choices also paid off in market terms.
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Many of Alessandro Michele’s collections will be remembered not only for their social messages but also for their genderless appeal and provocative approach—ranging from the iconic severed heads carried by models to his long-running collaboration with Adidas, which successfully merged sportswear with high-end luxury.
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Back to the Roots with Sabato De Sarno
Then, suddenly, enough was enough. Sabato De Sarno switched off the dazzling light that Michele had ignited, marking a return to a more understated style—quintessential to the concept of “quiet luxury”—without attempting to revive the atmosphere of the Tom Ford era.
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This shift was a retrospective move towards the brand’s distinctive features, signalling a return to Gucci’s roots. There were no “Instagram moments”, and nostalgia was central to his vision, as exemplified in the Ancora collection, which embraced a timeless style suitable for both the catwalk and the tennis court. However, the commercial intent ultimately proved ineffective, leading to De Sarno’s departure from the brand just two weeks before the presentation of his new collection. Following his exit, Gucci’s style office assumed creative direction.
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“It was clear from the start that De Sarno was not a visionary. He inherited the monumental task of transforming a brand that Michele had revolutionised with the language of modern fashion. He was chosen for this very reason: there was a sense that the era of grand visions had ended and that Gucci could be reshaped into a more measured, wearable luxury brand. It didn’t work,” said journalist and fashion expert Antonio Mancinelli. We couldn’t agree more.
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Horsebit, Flora, Double G, and Gucci’s Approach to Luxury Fashion
The Gucci style has evolved over time while retaining distinctive elements that have been enhanced by the brand’s owners, fashion designers, and creative directors. These signature styles have allowed the brand to transition from periods of strict stylistic rigour to phases that embrace a more diverse and vibrant appeal.
Gucci is renowned for its artisanal heritage and the excellence of Italian craftsmanship, particularly in leatherworking and luxury materials. The iconic green and red striped ribbon, the saddle-inspired leather bags, the metal horsebit—a nod to the equestrian world—and the double G monogram print have all become emblematic elements, symbols of luxury and prestige, frequently copied and counterfeited.
The Flora print, introduced in the 1960s for the Flora scarf designed by Rodolfo Gucci for Grace Kelly, also lent its name to one of the brand’s longest-running perfumes, Flora by Gucci. The bold and sensual aesthetic of Tom Ford, paired with Alessandro Michele’s eclectic approach, now represents the duality of Gucci, with both sides coexisting within the brand’s contemporary DNA. The question remains: who, or what, will shape the next chapter for Gucci?
Gucci in Crisis? Falling Sales and the Search for a New Creative Director
It is widely acknowledged in the industry that Gucci is currently facing significant financial challenges. In the fourth quarter of 2024, the brand experienced a substantial decline in sales, with Kering reporting a 12% drop, amounting to €4.97 billion. Specifically, Gucci’s sales fell by 24%, which is critical as the brand accounts for about half of the Group’s total sales and two-thirds of its profits. This was worse than analysts had predicted, as they had expected a 22% decrease. Additionally, Gucci’s operating profitability plummeted by 51% over the full year. However, there were signs of a slight recovery in North America and the Asia-Pacific region between the third and fourth quarters.