The latest Dolce&Gabbana show centred on Madonna, while Balenciaga collaborated with Mina and Gucci showcased models lip-syncing to Fiordaliso
Dolce&Gabbana kicked off their Spring-Summer 2025 womenswear show with a bang, bringing their theme “Italian Beauty” to life in the boldest way possible. They featured platinum blonde wigs reminiscent of Erotica, cross-shaped earrings, and a slinky white dress with cone-shaped cups, which made it obvious, clearly channelling Madonna.
The Queen of Pop’s long-standing relationship with the brand and its founders, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, began at the 1991 Cannes Film Festival, where she wore a dazzling bejewelled corset. Now, they had taken it up a notch with a runway show that was pure “Blonde Ambition.”
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From start to finish, the collection drew heavy inspiration from Madonna’s most iconic looks, blending them with Dolce&Gabbana’s archives. The standout piece was a fresh take on the bullet bra, inspired by 1940s Hollywood glamour. This bra had become a symbol of female empowerment, forever tied to Madonna’s Blonde Ambition tour. Other notable tributes included her Marilyn Monroe-inspired outfits, such as the silver gown paired with a dramatic white fur stole she had worn at the 1991 Oscars.
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Just when one might have thought the show could not get more epic, the crowd at the Metropol Theatre went wild. Madonna was not merely referenced in the collection; she was present in the front row in person. In her first-ever appearance at a Dolce&Gabbana show, the icon stunned in a black slip dress, matching gloves, and a Chantilly lace veil, topped off with a gold crown. Queen of Pop? More like the Queen of Fashion.
Yet, the pop-fashion fusion does not stop there. Demna’s Balenciaga just wrote a new chapter in its Balenciaga Music series, this time focusing on the legendary Mina. The project, launched in 2020, had previously featured big names like RuPaul, Aya Nakamura, and even Rammstein. This marks the first time that Mina, known as the “Tigress of Cremona,” collaborated with a fashion house, resulting in an exclusive limited-edition capsule collection. The collection includes an oversized black t-shirt featuring Mina’s face on the front and a complete list of her 106 albums on the back. But here’s the kicker: the shirt also comes with an NFC (Near Field Communication) chip, allowing you to listen to her latest single, “L’amore vero.” Additionally, fans can grab a pair of sunglasses designed to mimic her signature bold black eye makeup. Talk about iconic merch.
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Gucci simply had to be a part of the pop culture lovefest. To close their Spring-Summer 2025 women’s show, creative director Sabato De Sarno had models dancing and lip-syncing to Fiordaliso’s 1986 hit “Non voglio mica la luna.” Even De Sarno himself could not help but bounce along as the upbeat track echoed through the venue. Pop and fashion? A match made in heaven.
@sonymusicitalia “Non voglio mica la luna” di @Fiordaliso alla sfilata Gucci Primavera Estate 2025 @Gucci #GucciSS25 #gucciistante #fiordaliso #nonvogliomicalaluna #mfw #sfilata #neiperte #davedere ♬ Non voglio mica la luna - Fiordaliso
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master’s Programme Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan