How to build an indie fashion brand: Embrace patience (and stay commercially aware)
We spoke with alumnus Filippo Cascinelli, who recently debuted his brand at Pitti Uomo 107 after stints at Versace and Prada
In today’s unpredictable fashion landscape, making an impact requires more than a catchy slogan or a brilliant idea. Cascinelli manages to do just that. Launched in late 2024 by Filippo Cascinelli Staudacher, this new outerwear brand is already turning heads, securing a spot at Pitti Uomo 107 and showcasing at Milan Fashion Week’s Fashion Hub.
Filippo Cascinelli Staudacher’s education at Milan’s Istituto Marangoni, coupled with experience at Manteco, Versace, and Prada, has shaped his design vision. As an Assistant to the Menswear Design Director at Prada, he refined an aesthetic that seamlessly merges minimalist lines with bold accents. For him, outerwear now serves as a medium for creativity, influenced by childhood memories, while also embodying a genuine commitment to sustainability—something his generation views as a fundamental principle rather than just a lofty ambition.
Detail from structured jacket in grey tech fabric from Cascinelli FW25 collection. Courtesy of Cascinelli
The Cascinelli Fall-Winter 2025/26 debut collection is a striking representation of this vision, with ten outerwear pieces influenced by technical mountain gear yet reimagined through a contemporary lens. Cascinelli prioritises sustainability by incorporating high-quality, certified recycled materials, such as nylon and wool, while keeping the designs fresh with classic outerwear staples like parkas, sahariana jackets, and blousons. The colour scheme is grounded in neutral tones, with vibrant pops of orange adding a layer of contrast.
However, what truly differentiates Cascinelli’s first collection is its three-dimensional floral embellishments, crafted from the same fabrics as the garments themselves. Moreover, military and sportswear influences are evident in the details, from ski-inspired cuffs to removable hoods, thermo-welded seams, and water-resistant zips.
Three outfits from the last FW25 collection from Cascinelli. Courtesy of Cascinelli
Cascinelli’s dedication to innovation, sustainability, and refined modernity positions his brand as one to watch. But it’s his sharp entrepreneurial attitude, coupled with resilience, patience, and a compelling drive to communicate a clear vision, that makes this conversation essential—especially if you’re considering launching your own independent fashion label.
How would you define Cascinelli in three words, and why?
Refined, determined, essential. These words capture the brand’s understated elegance, the dedication to staying true to our vision, and our commitment to focusing on the essence, free from unnecessary embellishments.
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Two piece ensemble featuring a plain grey jacket in techical blouson with floral-inspired details and plain grey flared trousers from Cascinelli FW25 collection. Courtesy of Cascinelli
Having worked with luxury houses, what inspired you to take the leap and create your own brand?
From a young age, I’ve always dreamed of creating something of my own in the fashion world. Gaining experience in the design departments of some of the most prestigious brands was crucial in shaping my journey. This experience allowed me to hone the necessary skills, and then, driven by my determination, I decided to turn that dream into reality by creating Cascinelli.
What’s the most important lesson you’ve learned from your time at Versace and Prada?
It’s all about resilience. The great brands reached their status over many years, and as smaller entities, we must be patient in our journey. In fashion, you never stop learning, and there’s always an exchange of knowledge between big and small players.
Close-up of the hood detail on an orange technical blouson jacket. Courtesy of Cascinelli
What are the pros and cons of working for a large brand compared to running your own independent brand?
Working for a large brand offers the opportunity to learn business processes within a well-established organisation. However, these companies can limit the scope for artistic experimentation and creative risks. On the flip side, managing an independent brand provides full creative freedom. Yet, this path comes with its own challenges, such as the struggle to gain recognition and credibility within the industry—something that can be elusive, especially during times of crisis.
So, why start a fashion brand today, and how do you stand out in such a crowded market?
It’s essential to have an authentic story, whether it stems from a personal memory or a unique vision. Our passion and the authenticity of the project must emerge clearly. Additionally, fashion is both an entrepreneurial and artistic journey, requiring a strategic vision to stand out in today’s competitive landscape.
Using innovative and sustainable materials is necessary for staying relevant. How do you go about selecting them?
My experience in major fashion houses helped me refine my ability to choose high-quality materials. Collaborating with industry leaders has provided valuable insights that are essential for ensuring both innovation and sustainability in Cascinelli collections.
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Outfit featuring white parka detailed with floral echos and plain grey structured tailored shorts from Cascinelli FW25 collection. Courtesy of Cascinelli
Have your childhood memories at your family estate in Trentino influenced this responsible philosophy?
Our family estate in Trentino is a place of peace and tranquillity, immersed in nature. It is here that I formed my deepest family bonds and my most treasured memories. This profound connection to the natural world not only shapes the philosophy of Cascinelli but also influences its aesthetics, steering it towards refined simplicity and a deep respect for the essentials.
How do you see the future of men’s fashion?
It’s hard to predict the exact direction of men’s fashion right now. In the past, fashion often aligned with progressive trends tied to political movements and the desires of liberal consumers. Today, in the wake of wars and economic crises, there seems to be a shift towards cleaner, more traditional lines. As an emerging brand, Cascinelli seeks to explore various stylistic and aesthetic opportunities while always maintaining a strong commercial focus.
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Outfit featuring technical blouson jacket with floral detailing and wide-leg trousers from Cascinelli FW25 collection. Courtesy of Cascinelli
What are the next steps for your brand?
Currently, we’re working on several exciting projects, including the development of our summer collection, which will showcase our continuous commitment to innovation and quality.
Who are the three ideal people you’d have dinner with, and what would you dress them in from Cascinelli?
The three ideal people I would like to have dinner with would be Elodie, who I imagine wearing our “Flower Vittorio Parka,” a floral parka combining functionality with style; Lady Gaga, in the “Flower Federico Softshell,” a jacket with bold floral patterns that reflect her eclectic personality; and Miuccia Prada, who would likely appreciate the “Carlo Blouson,” a jacket with a minimalist yet sophisticated design that aligns with her aesthetic.
Final question: If you weren’t a designer, what path do you think you’d have taken?
If I weren’t a designer, I’d probably be a musician. Growing up surrounded by the arts, I studied music and played several instruments, a passion that I now pursue as a hobby.
Silvia Tarini
Editor, Milan