Surprise debuts: How early launches reveal fashion’s new creative directions
From Michele’s unexpected Valentino resort to Koma’s Blumarine red carpet preview, fashion is shifting how brands unveil their next chapters
Fashion is rewriting its own playbook, with a new trend emerging where brands surprise audiences with “early debuts” of their latest creative directions.
In a twist on tradition, instead of waiting for the official debut collection after announcing a new designer as creative director, brands are now disrupting their schedules with a bang.
An increasing number of new designers at the helm of these fashion houses are choosing to make bold first impressions at unexpected venues and moments of the year, often transforming high-society galas and red carpets into platforms for showcasing fashion’s most anticipated reveals.
Alessandro Michele’s Valentino Haute Couture Debut at Le Bal des Débutantes Previews His January 2025 Show
Case in point: Alessandro Michele’s first haute couture creation for Valentino premiered not on a runway but at Le Bal des Débutantes in Paris, the annual fundraiser and society event where elite daughters are formally introduced to the world.
This year, the buzz wasn’t just about the 20 debutantes—it was also about Apple Martin. The daughter of Gwyneth Paltrow and Chris Martin stunned in a custom Valentino gown by Alessandro Michele.
@parismatch #applemartin #baldesdebutantes #chrismartin #gwynethpaltrow #valentinocouture ♬ MILLION DOLLAR BABY (VHS) - Tommy Richman
The dress, crafted from sky-blue silk chiffon, featured vertical pleats and a black silk bow, combining a classic style with a modern edge. The entire Martin-Paltrow family was dressed in Valentino: Gwyneth wore a polka-dot tulle gown, while Chris and their son Moses sported sleek, custom-made tuxedos.
Alessandro Michele’s haute couture debut design gave us a glimpse of his vision ahead of Valentino’s upcoming couture show in January.
The Very First of Michele’s Early Launches: Building the Art of Fueling Anticipation
This isn’t Michele’s first rodeo with early debuts. In another move designed to create a wow factor, the Roman designer chose to unveil his first ready-to-wear creations for Valentino by introducing his resort 2025 collection last June—months ahead of the scheduled debut for Spring-Summer 2025, which is expected to take place at the end of September in Paris.
This expansive, unexpected lookbook of 171 images, titled Avant des Débuts, quickly seized the spotlight like a well-timed scoop. Released on the same day as Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci show—the Kering house Michele left in November 2022—it proved a masterstroke of coincidence.
And, of course, the red carpets were not to be missed on this occasion either. At the 2024 Venice Film Festival in late August, Italian actor Alessandro Borghi wore pieces from Michele’s resort collection Avant des Débuts. His outfit included a striped shirt, contrast-cut trousers, and Valentino Garavani shoes, reigniting excitement for the designer’s first catwalk appearance in the City of Lights on 29 September.
Michele’s innovative contributions to fashion extend beyond early debuts. He is known for his unconventional approach, which includes offering just one couture collection and two ready-to-wear shows a year. This decision marks a shift from fashion’s traditional, rigid seasonal schedules to a more narrative-driven timeline.
David Koma’s Blumarine Joins Early Debut Trend at The Fashion Awards 2024
Meanwhile, in London, another designer has also made headlines with an early debut. Just days ago, David Koma, the newly appointed creative director of Blumarine, chose The Fashion Awards 2024 to unveil his first designs for the renowned Italian brand.
Victoria De Angelis wearing custom David Koma designs, inspired by his upcoming Blumarine pre-fall 2025 collection. Photo by Simonas Berukstis, Courtesy of Blumarine
Models Ashley Graham and Georgia Palmer, along with stars like Victoria De Angelis and Alice Pagani, wore custom designs inspired by Koma’s upcoming Blumarine pre-fall 2025 drop.
The Royal Albert Hall became a stage not only for celebrating fashion’s present but for previewing its future.
Georgia Palmer in a custom creation by David Koma, inspired by his upcoming Blumarine pre-fall 2025 collection. Courtesy of British Fashion Council
This trend extends beyond fashion; it’s about redefining the art of storytelling in the industry. By moving away from traditional formats, designers like Michele and Koma are seizing the cultural moment, generating anticipation and excitement. These “early debuts” are not just a flex—they serve as a blueprint for the next chapter of the industry.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master’s Programme Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan