Returning after six years with a diversity-focused twist, did the lingerie giant’s comeback feel too restrained to resonate?
On a recent Thursday night, a black motorcycle zipped through the streets of New York City, leading an audience of both in-person attendees and millions of digital streamers to a pink-lit runway. Here, Lisa, the renowned K-pop singer, opened the eagerly anticipated comeback of the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show with a powerful performance that set the tone for an all-female showcase.
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Next up was Gigi Hadid, who dazzled in a pink monosuit paired with colossal feathered wings, paving the way for brand legends like Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel, Isabeli Fontana, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Tyra Banks. Their familiar faces sparked a wave of nostalgia as they blew kisses and waved to the guests.
The iconic Victoria’s Secret Angels shared the runway with some of the hottest models of the moment, including Vittoria Ceretti and Bella Hadid. A particularly exciting twist was the debut of two seasoned icons as Angels: Kate Moss, who had surprisingly never walked for the American lingerie brand, graced the New York runway wearing dark feathered wings and an alluring black lace ensemble. Also making her debut at Victoria’s Secret was Italian supermodel Carla Bruni, who, at fifty-six, showcased her timeless charm in structured, sparkling wings, a bustier, and string panties. When asked about her appearance, she quipped to the press, “This first runway is probably the last!”
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Other Angels introduced to the stage included transgender models Valentina Sampaio and Alex Consani, as well as plus-size supermodels like Devyn Garcia and Ashley Graham, highlighting the brand’s commitment to a more inclusive future.
The spectacle was enhanced by Tyla, the South African singer who performed her hit “Water” alongside the Angels, and Cher, who led the crowd in song as she belted out “Believe”.
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As CNN reported, “The presence of the female gaze was felt throughout the evening, featuring an all-women musical lineup and a diverse cast of models wearing more sophisticated—and, in some cases, more comfortable-looking—lingerie.”
After six years, the lingerie giant held a show that celebrated the empowerment of a new generation of women, embracing the diversity of today’s world and showcasing some remarkable firsts. Notably, it was the first time that items from the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show were available for purchase during a live stream of the event.
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Despite this strong comeback after a period of reduced global relevance and various legal controversies, the immediate mixed reviews raise questions. The 2024 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show seemed designed to revive a successful past formula, featuring celebrated models in lingerie parading with grand wings, complemented by live performances that could rival a music festival. However, adjusting every aspect to meet modern sensibilities in the post-#MeToo era may have diminished the show’s inherent power, which thrived on absurd exaggeration and spectacular displays. Indeed, the spectacle lacked the grandeur and extravagance of earlier productions—those shows that, despite facing criticism, continue to be celebrated on social media, fuelled by a wave of nostalgia.
Younger audiences still passionately post about the golden era of the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Shows from the early 2000s. Yet, trying to replicate that exact formula today would be impossible for several reasons, many of which contributed to the brand’s decline in recent years. In other words, the nostalgia we feel when watching old clips wouldn’t translate if those same elements were reintroduced to a contemporary runway. In fact, we’d likely be outraged by the lack of inclusivity, the overt sexualisation, and the heavy-handed male gaze. Perhaps the solution is clear: should we leave these grand spectacles in the past, regardless of any attempts at modernisation?
Ximena Fernández Ochoa
Fashion Business, Digital Communication & Media, 3rd year, Milano