Luxury minds in the everyday aisle: just hype or the real deal? It’s still up in the air whether high-fashion designers will boost sales for mass brands
Uniqlo has just crowned Clare Waight Keller, who previously worked at Givenchy and Chloé, as the creative director of its main line, expanding on the partnership that began with her Uniqlo C collaboration last year.
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Meanwhile, Zara is teaming up with Stefano Pilati, a designer well-regarded by insiders, particularly for his stints at Saint Laurent and Zegna. Gap Inc. has also enlisted Zac Posen to lead design for Gap, Old Navy, Banana Republic, and more. Additionally, Brandon Maxwell has been in charge of Walmart’s two private labels since 2021. These major moves beg the question: do mass-market brands really need a big-name creative director steering the ship?
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For years, fast-fashion giants like H&M have dabbled in designer collabs—usually limited-edition lines that send fashionistas into a frenzy. But now, major players like Gap and Uniqlo are giving designers full creative control, a shift from the typical groupthink corporate model.
What’s Driving the Surge in Creative Director Hires by Mass Brands?
It’s not just about fast fashion brands wanting to capitalise on designer name recognition.
With the luxury sector tightening its purse strings, many high-end designers are finding it tougher to make an impact at top houses. Another factor to consider is that mass-market brands offer runway couture talent the chance to showcase their work on a much larger scale rather than sticking to sky-high prices that only a few can afford. As Clare Waight Keller puts it, “It’s really, for a designer, an incredible way to get your clothes on a lot of people.”
There’s also been a cultural shift, with Gen Z and Millennials blurring the lines between high-end and fast fashion. More consumers are mixing designer pieces with affordable staples, making the crossover between mass brands and luxury less taboo. Designers like Jonathan Anderson and Christophe Lemaire have shown that you can juggle high fashion with Uniqlo collaborations without hurting your rep.
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The High Stakes of Mass Appeal
However, bringing on a creative director isn’t without risk. It’s easy to question whether one person’s vision can truly move the needle at a massive retailer like Gap, where success typically hinges on a whole team’s efforts across marketing, product development, and sales.
Remember when Gap’s former CEO called creative directors “false messiahs” and ditched the role altogether?
That said, when these collaborations hit, they hit big. Creative directors can inject a sense of luxury, generate buzz, and push average selling prices higher. Case in point: Customers flock to stores for Uniqlo and JW Anderson collaborations or Uniqlo U by Lemaire, leaving with bags full of core essentials. So why not let Waight Keller work her magic not just with her Uniqlo C drops but also on the brand’s main line?
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Built-In Safety Nets
The good news for mass brands is that there’s room for error. If a creative director’s vision doesn’t land, the more corporate, marketing-driven culture at these retailers often helps to soften the impact. As BoF noted, a situation like Brioni’s ill-fated punk makeover under Justin O’Shea in 2016 is much less likely to happen at Uniqlo or Old Navy.
Even Kanye West’s brief and chaotic stint at Gap didn’t really dent the brand’s long-term success. Gap moved on, and so did its customers.
The real test will come soon. With Zac Posen already making headlines for Gap—like that viral white shirt dress worn by Anne Hathaway—retailers will be watching closely to see if these creative appointments drive the kind of engagement and sales they’re hoping for.
Angelo Ruggeri
Journalist, Master’s Programme Tutor & Fashion Styling Course Leader, Milan