London, Milan, Paris: Forget the runways! Bookshops rule. With bookworms as fashion’s new icons, reading and buying merch are irresistible
At a pivotal moment in fashion, THAT cap made its entrance. No, not the Klein blue one worn by Beka Gvishiani from Instagram account @stylenotcom. This was a different cap, another one. We didn’t dwell on this new addition—perhaps we merely glanced at it, offering a fleeting smile before redirecting our attention to what we deemed more urgent.
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When news broke that Alessandro Michele, the former creative director of Gucci, would be taking the helm at Valentino, we were engrossed in dissecting yet another round of fashion designer shake-ups. In the official announcement photo, amidst his trademark long hair, a piece rested atop his head, bearing the caption: “Techno is my boyfriend.” However, our attention was elsewhere, too caught up in the fashion world’s “Musical Chairs” game to notice this intriguing detail.
Alessandro Michele and his “Techno is my Boyfriend” Cap
The portrait of Alessandro Michele with his “Techno is my boyfriend” cap quickly became the symbol of Valentino’s new direction, spreading like wildfire across the digital landscape. It went viral, popping up everywhere, especially when news media reported the brand’s notable absence from the men’s fashion month in June and subsequent couture shows.
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The cap made its rounds in person at presentation events, adding the final touch to Alessandro Michele’s outfit of a tee, unbuttoned shirt, and an armful of bracelets as he made his comeback—not on the runway (which we’ve come to expect will be in September)—but on the pages of a book titled “La vita delle forme – Filosofia del reincanto,” published by HarperCollins. At this juncture, several questions bubbled up about the cap, which seemed to have become a must-have accessory for the designer—and many others. It turns out it comes from a London bookstore—and much more, as we'll explain later—called Idea.
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A Gentle Disclaimer for All the Fashion Nerds Out There
Don’t get upset, fashion nerds. We’re well aware that you hold this accessory close to your heart and may prefer others not to know—at least, not that much. It’s your bastion, your security blanket, we get it.
But let’s get real here because this headwear holds far more significance than meets the eye. And it begs an uncomfortable question: Why has bookstore merchandise suddenly surpassed designer collections in relevance—and coolness?
Where to Find (a Great) Idea?
Indeed, the “Techno is my boyfriend” cap is an example of what we might simplistically categorise as bookstore merchandise—a collection of T-shirts, tote bags, and other easy-to-wear items that are cost-effective to produce and can generate a respectable profit without hefty price tags. Essentially, this merchandise serves as a lifeline for printed media, from renowned magazines like Vogue and The New Yorker to independent publishers like Idea.
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Behind Idea are the London-based duo David Owen and Angela Hill, who have been collecting rare vintage books and magazines since the ‘90s and have launched their own publishing arm. Over the years, they have amassed 500,000 followers on their Instagram account —not a small feat, especially in the fashion nerd community—and have earned a spot on BOF’s “500 People Shaping Fashion” list, as well as on the mood boards of fashion designers from Dior’s Kim Jones to Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière.
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According to Vogue, which has traced the evolution of their business strategy over time, Owen and Hill once introduced an appointment-only “Secret Book Room” at their W1 offices. More recently, they opened a shop within their Soho headquarters at 101 Wardour Street—the former home of Elton John’s Rocket Records. This location is the public address—though still elusive like a true treasure, much to the delight of its owners—of the so-called “Home of the Superbooks,” as Idea likes to call itself, while also emphasising its status as the “Coolest publisher in the world with a nice line in shirts, hats, and bags.”
Why Bookstore Merch Has Gone Cooler Than Designer Collections, Explained
Those bookstore merch caps are made from (a great) Idea, one might say, and they mostly feature trenchant, sharp slogans. The “Techno is my boyfriend” Idea cap undoubtedly has worthy companions in the “I don’t work here” cap, the “Yoga helps” cap, and the “Tuna mayo” cap. And let’s not forget about the “In a meeting” piece, the “Do you know who I am?”, the “Buy me lunch,” the “Running late,” or the “Acid” caps.
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Picture this: you’ve arrived at the venue of a hot ticket show, patiently waiting in line and observing those around you. As you glance around, you can’t help but imagine which Idea’s statement each person would identify with, silently assigning labels to those around you. The fun part of this game? If ideas could speak, their judgments would likely differ from how you perceive yourself. That’s the beauty of the (free) press, baby!
Are Bookworms the Newest Fashion People in Town, or Is Reading Finally Truly Fashionable?
Honestly, the bold statements embroidered on Idea’s bookstore merchandise pack quite a punch, especially in today’s fashion scene. They seem more alluring and direct compared to the cautious collections showcased on runways by perplexed fashion designers while brands and their CEOs are struggling to navigate the luxury slowdown following a post-pandemic sales surge.
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But hey, in the thirtieth anniversary year of his passing, should we perhaps take a moment to remember Franco Moschino’s powerful lesson on the indiscreet charm of irreverence? Rossella Jardini, Moschino’s long-time collaborator and successor until 2013, seems to think so with her latest book, “Ma chi l’avrebbe detto?! L’eleganza ha una faccia sola” (Who would have thought?! Elegance has only one face). It seems that books are once again at the centre of attention. Hence, an increasingly plausible theory emerges: Bookworms are the latest trendsetters in fashion, proving that reading (and its merchandise) has never been so damn sexy.
From London to Milan, (Naples) and Paris: Your Ultimate Guide to Catching the Best Iconic Newsstand Merchandising Across Fashion Capitals
Good news for fashion insiders gearing up for the upcoming fashion month. Milan, (Naples) and Paris seem to share a passion for bookstore merchandising, and the newsstands and bookshops offering this apparel have been buzzing with activity in recent weeks.
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“Milano sei la top” T-shirt and “Mollatemi” sweatshirt are just some of the sharp proposals that the team at Nss has created in partnership with the Instagram account @melodyseilatop. These recent additions mark another achievement for Nss following a string of successful releases. Back in the day, the creative media agency—originally from Naples but now based in Milan—began its merchandise journey with the “J’adore Napoli” drops, paying homage to its founders’ hometown. This collection soon became a sensation, drawing inspiration from the lettering of the iconic “J’adore Dior” T-shirts of yesteryears—a nostalgic homage to John Galliano’s heyday, when the living fashion legend led the creative direction at Christian Dior.
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Born in 2009 as a street-style blog, Nss has evolved into a magazine and digital platform, Nss Magazine. In 2014, they created Nss Factory, operating in fashion through campaigns, editorials, and redefining the role of bloggers, talents, and digital creators. Restless as they are, they ventured into the sports field with Nss Sports, began nurturing their artistic side through Nss Galleria, and expanded internationally with Nss France.
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As lovers of all things digital and enthusiasts of contrasts, they decided to venture into the physical scenario by setting up Nss Edicola, a permanent newsstand snugly nestled in Piazza San Pasquale in Naples. To spice things up, they also started sprinkling temporary events in fashion capitals worldwide. During the latest Milan Fashion Week, they took over a newsstand in the Lombard capital for the second time. Besides hosting events filled with Gen Zers, creators, and blue-tick-blessed individuals, their latest Milanese newsstand turned out to be a temporary hotspot for buying items from their “Ti odio Milano ti amo” collection, including the ironically titled “Milano don’t cry” tee. Whether you see it as a tribute to “Boys don’t cry”, or simply a funny take on the tears shed over fashion, you can still grab these gems from their e-shop, Nss Store. Also, rumour has it that another newsstand might pop up in town. With the Nss crew, it’s a rollercoaster where digital and physical experiences meet, and the physical morphs into the digital, all part of their essence.
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Where to Snag Frenchness: The Bookstore Merch for Paris-Connoisseur Wannabes
“Paris is worth a Mass,” once declared Henry of Navarre. If the City of Lights lures you each season with an irresistible siren song, but you navigate its streets with a language that blends French and Italian like a playful yet clumsy fashion Esperanto, fear not. You can still embrace the city’s allure with Nss’s football jerseys proudly proclaiming “Ti amo Paris.”
Alternatively, if you’re eager to embody the essence of a true Parisian, yearning for acceptance into the inner circle of the Ville Lumière and its fashion elite, remember: “Fake it ‘till you make it” is a tried-and-true mantra in this industry. If that resonates with you, then 0fr.’s merchandise is your entry ticket.
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Founded in 1996 by Alexandre Thumerelle and his sister, Marie, 0fr. is more than just a bookshop; it’s a gallery, a studio, and a publishing house all rolled into one. While their flagship store is located at 20, Rue Dupetit-Thouars, their expanding repertoire of events—such as concerts, book signings, magazine launches, and art exhibitions spanning painting, sculpture, and photography—prompted them to unveil a larger, more versatile space at 1, Rue Eugene Spuller, just a stone’s throw away.
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Although they are active around the world, from Seoul to Tokyo, New York and California, the 0fr. team proudly proclaims, “No online shop,” on their Instagram account, which has just under 90 thousand followers, including discerning intellectual collectors and ultra-fashionable professionals. Navigating through towering stacks of books and print magazines, their bookshops form a labyrinthine path, offering over two hundred diverse publications—whether original or not, old or new, independent or emerging.
Who Needs THIS Expensive High Fashion When You Can Have THAT Affordable Literary Charm?
The 0fr. merchandise isn’t ironic; it’s a precise reflection of the seller’s identity and the buyer’s desired image. With tote bags and caps adorned with “0fr. Paris Est. 1996,” their message couldn’t be clearer. And if even this (little) creativity proves more appealing than the allure of the runways, perhaps it’s time for fashion to stop hiding their gaze under a (bookstore merch) cap and refocus on the here and now. Thankfully, Alessandro Michele will be back to fashion soon.