His sharpest advice: “Nobody cares how good you were yesterday.” That’s how he built an empire and California’s most photographed pink wall
There’s a photograph of Paul Smith that often circulates among fashion enthusiasts, one that shows him seated at his desk, surrounded by a chaotic mix of books, quirky trinkets, and sports memorabilia. In the midst of this clutter, what stands out is not just his relaxed posture or characteristic wry smile but an energy that seems to reflect the essence of the man himself: untamed, eclectic, and effortlessly creative. Sir Paul Smith, the British designer who built an empire from a small, windowless room in Nottingham, has always been seen as more of a personality than a label. His name represents an ethos rather than just a brand.
Born in 1946 in Nottingham, Smith initially dreamed of becoming a cyclist. As a promising young racer, he was forced to abandon his ambitions at 17 after a serious accident that left him bedridden for six months. However, instead of diminishing his zest for life, the injury ignited a profound transformation. During his recovery, he was introduced to a new world brimming with colour, music, and art. He became fascinated by the works of Mondrian and Warhol, while the sounds of Miles Davis and the Rolling Stones became his soundtrack. That period marked the beginning of his real journey—not on the race track, but in the world of fashion.
A snapshot from Paul Smith's masterclass at Istituto Marangoni London
By the time he opened his first store, Paul Smith Vêtements Pour L’Homme, in 1970, he was far from the established designer we recognise today. Located on Byard Lane in Nottingham, the shop was barely larger than a cupboard, measuring only 3x3 metres, with no windows to let in the daylight. However, it was in this tiny space that the seeds of a global fashion empire were sown. His first ‘employee’ was Homer, an Afghan hound who took on the role of shop manager. This humble beginning laid the foundation for what would eventually become one of the most celebrated brands in British design, with over 130 stores spanning 60 countries.
Smith’s designs reflect both his personality and his surroundings. He once described his philosophy as “well-made, good quality, simple cut, interesting fabric, easy to wear.” And yet, the simplicity of his creations is often enhanced by unexpected elements—like a splash of colour here or a floral print there—and his iconic multicoloured stripes, which have become synonymous with the brand itself.
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Despite his status as one of the most recognisable names in fashion, Paul Smith has never fallen prey to the allure of corporate domination. He remains a fiercely independent designer, still holding a majority stake in the company he founded in 1970. His approach to business is refreshingly low-key. “Take it slow,” he’s often said. “Life is a joy. You don’t have to be rich and famous straight away. Take it easy, grow gently, and you’ll have a lovely life.”
While he’s often seen rubbing elbows with rockstars like Eric Clapton or even designing for the English football team ahead of their Champions League Final, Paul Smith’s true influence lies in the quiet revolution he has sparked in British menswear. His designs are not just about what’s on the outside; they embody the confidence they instil in the wearer and the subtle messages they convey through fabric and colour. There’s also an element of fun. Smith believes that inspiration can be found in anything—a mindset that has shaped his work for over five decades. From the moment he made his debut on the Paris runway in 1976, he set out to create clothing that was timeless, accessible, and yet undeniably bold. In doing so, he rewrote the rules of what British fashion could be.
In many ways, Smith’s greatest achievement is his ability to remain a true outsider in an industry that is obsessed with celebrity and commercialism. He has built his empire on his own terms, creating clothing that resonates with people rather than catering to market demands. As he celebrated 50 years of design in 2020, he remained grounded and inquisitive, with no intention of slowing down.
This authenticity was evident when he recently held a masterclass at Istituto Marangoni in London, where a crowd of creative students gathered to hear from the authority of British menswear. Those two hours were nothing short of revelatory, providing a deeply inspiring and practical experience that combined real-world advice with the imaginative, dream-driven energy that has characterised his career.
During the two-hour talk, Paul Smith offered precious insights from his experience, inspiring creative students
It was an honour to meet him, hear his wisdom drawn from decades of experience in design and understand the principles that have shaped his career. Smith’s unwavering dedication to quality, creativity, and business, along with his signature “classic with a twist” philosophy, has firmly established him as a pivotal figure in the fashion industry. As he shared his insights on work-life balance, it became clear that his journey—marked by quiet persistence, boundless curiosity, and an unrelenting passion for his craft—offers invaluable lessons for anyone willing to pursue their own path in fashion. So, here are four key lessons from the master himself, Sir Paul Smith, for aspiring fashion designers:
- Think Laterally
For Sir Paul Smith, lateral thinking is an essential quality for creatives and can be applied as problem-solving in any life experience. “Each one of you needs to understand lateral thinking,” he began energetically. “If there’s an obvious way, try going left or right, not the obvious one,” he added, recalling his unconventional entry into the industry at a young age. As he flipped through his newly published book, Paul Smith showcased his aesthetic, demonstrating how he has built a brand that combines tradition with modernity, using bold colours that contrast with sober tones, and pairing unconventional patterns with relaxed, casual silhouettes. “You can find inspiration in the world around us,” he said, showing a series of pictures he took while travelling, “including nature and architecture…everything can be part of it. This is a system of observation. You all take snaps all the time, so what are you looking at?”
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- Find Your Balance
For Sir Paul Smith, finding a balance between work and personal life is essential for earning money, learning, and staying true to one’s values. “The job changes you, but you never change the job.” Reflecting on his 55 years of work experience, Sir Smith discussed how to avoid sacrificing life for business, sharing how he learned to balance profitability with creativity through a pragmatic approach to the fashion industry. Addressing aspiring designers and fashion professionals, he advised, “If you only focus on purity when starting your career, it won’t work.” He further commented, “If you’re only producing commercial pieces and dropping out, the same will happen. You need balance, and then you’ll probably survive.” He concluded, “The most important thing you’ll take from today is the balance of purity and commerciality.”
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The British designer highlighted key points for growing as a creative, such as fostering individuality, thinking laterally, and achieving work-life balance
- Grow Your Personality
There is no doubt that for Sir Paul Smith, developing individuality and personality is crucial for success in the fashion industry. “Individuality in the creative arts is important for personal development and essential for success,” he emphasised, encouraging students to seek unique perspectives and expertise. “Why should I employ any of you? What’s the reason? Is it because you’re brilliant at cutting, or because you know about construction, or you’re a fabric expert? What’s your speciality?” he asked, stressing the importance of learning to express those values. “Communication today is probably the most important thing to learn.”
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- Question Everything and Challenge the Obvious
Reflecting on a design collaboration offer from a Chinese phone company, Sir Paul advised students to “question everything” and “think about it overnight, as it’s interesting how often you would reject [the offer],” estimating the quality value of projects. “So, do things for a good reason.” Another golden rule for designers, according to Smith, is to challenge the obvious. Exploring alternatives often leads to innovative solutions. This approach gave rise to the bright “pink shoebox” store project, which became one of the most popular shops in LA. Sir Smith shared the story behind it: “Once I said, ‘I’m going to have a shop on Melrose Avenue.’ [...] How would anyone be interested in somebody called Paul Smith?” He noted the challenges posed by the environment—“the city is 40 miles across, predominantly flat, wide roads, and, of course, nobody walks in LA.” Applying his unconventional approach, he designed “a pink shopfront with a small sign.” The store became a statement—“unexpected and funny”—with interior design that resembled movie sets. “Suddenly, this is now the most Instagrammed wall in all of California, completely by chance.” This stems from the lateral thinking approach we learned at the beginning of this masterclass: “Thinking globally, acting locally is really, really important.”
On a final note, Sir Paul Smith left us with this message: “Remember, fashion is about today and tomorrow; nobody cares how good you were [yesterday].”
Silvia De Vecchi
Librarian, London