Close your eyes and think of spring. Now picture the scent of spring: a gentle breeze, freshly cut grass, the delicate fragrance of wildflowers, and maybe even the petrichor—that earthy scent of rain on dry soil. For those who revel in spring, this may epitomise the scent of happiness.
Neurobiology never fails. The sense of smell is deeply connected to our emotions, memories, and feelings. Artificial Intelligence can easily predict the magic formula. How? It’s not magic at all. It’s a scientific process rooted in data analysis.
The Pioneers of AI Perfume Design
The Pioneers of AI Perfume Design. Artwork courtesy of Constanza Coscia, an IM alumna and graphic designer
Meet Carto, the AI masterpiece crafted by Givaudan, a global leader in the fragrance industry. Launched in 2019, long before AI became cool, Carto resides in a digital factory in Paris. Its purpose is to complement the art of perfume making, facilitating the process of formulating new fragrances, promoting innovation and pushing boundary by merging human expertise and machine learning.
Maurizio Volpi, President of the Givaudan Fragrance Division, reassures us that “the role of the perfumer remains central to creation, with Carto serving as digital support to enhance their creative endeavours.”
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Big tech company IBM partnered with Symrise to introduce Philyra, an AI apprentice employed by perfumer David Apel to develop Egeo ON Me and Egeo ON You, two new fragrances for the Brazilian brand O Boticário.
Philyra’s deep-learning algorithm has been trained on a vast amount of data on bestselling fragrances and granted access to a database of 1.7 million formulas, composed of various combinations of ingredients. The perfumer’s role is to give the final touch, much like a director’s cut, to create the “perfect” formula.
Catching Feels with Biometric Research
Catching Feels with Biometric Research. Artwork courtesy of Constanza Coscia
Numerous fragrance brands now leverage biometric research combined with machine learning algorithms to develop scents that can evoke emotional reactions and make us feel good.
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Moschino Toy 2 Pearl, a new gender-neutral fragrance launched earlier this year, incorporates a ground-breaking technology merging AI and neuroscience, developed by the perfume house IFF. This technology identifies ingredients that amplify feelings of wellbeing, joyfulness, and energy.
L’Oréal’s Technology Incubator, in collaboration with Yves Saint Laurent and neurotechnology company Emotiv, has devised a multi-sensor EEG-based headset. This innovative tool assists customers in discovering their ideal custom-made fragrance, with a remarkable 95% success rate reported among users.
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Puig analysed 45 million brain readings to craft the cologne Phantom by Paco Rabanne for men, combining neuroscience and Artificial Intelligence tools. Leveraging AI, they incorporated 10 times the usual amount of the molecule styrallyl acetate, commonly found in contemporary fragrances. Lavender and lemon were also introduced into the formula based on research findings. Subsequently, the fragrance underwent testing with the target demographic (men aged 18-35), revealing that its scent elicited a range of emotions including feelings of sexiness and energy.
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Irresistible Eau de Parfum by Givenchy and CK Eternity Summer both incorporate rose extract, strategically included following biometric research. According to neuroscience, this addition enhances feelings of happiness.
AI Enhancing the Age-Old (and Time-Consuming) Process of Fragrance Creation
AI Enhancing the Age-Old (and Time-Consuming) Process of Fragrance Creation. Artwork courtesy of Constanza Coscia
The human element remains pivotal in the process of utilising AI for perfume creation, both for strategic and creative purposes. It’s all about adopting a customer-centric approach, with AI serving as a tool rather than a replacement—a highly intelligent assistant that facilitates the process.
The traditional process of crafting a fragrance starts with the perfumer, also known as the ‘nose,’ who selects a range of key scent elements and precise technical specifications for the upcoming fragrance, all while keeping the target consumer base in mind. Each fragrance undergoes meticulous evaluation and is rated based on a comprehensive set of criteria, including its fidelity to the designated notes, overall appeal, and character.
Employing AI to expedite research and analysis allows for greater creative potential. It does not invalidate the role of fragrance designers; instead, it serves as a significant catalyst for creativity, opening up new possibilities.
Expert Perspectives: The Future of Perfumery in the Hands of AI
Expert Perspectives: The Future of Perfumery in the Hands of AI. Artwork courtesy of Constanza Coscia
“While the use of AI in fragrance design is not entirely new, it’s only recently that brands have started to proudly disclose their processes, often capitalising on the excitement surrounding Artificial Intelligence technology,” explains Silvia Manzoni, journalist, beauty expert, and professor at Istituto Marangoni Paris.
“Sorting through ingredients, dosages, and combinations to create a foundation for perfumers to unleash their creativity isn’t a replacement but rather a new avenue for creative exploration. It streamlines the selection process, freeing up more time for creativity and reducing time to market,” Manzoni elaborates.
Perfume designers aren’t the only ones who can leverage AI-infused insights. Algorithmic and machine learning tools also offer powerful capabilities for analysing customer preferences based on trends. For instance, Gen Z and Baby Boomers often have distinct fragrance preferences. Silvia Manzoni claims that “AI applied to research platforms helps marketers understand consumer expectations. While it typically takes up to 2 years to develop a perfume, societal tastes can evolve within that timeframe. However, AI excels at identifying trends promptly, allowing for timely product launches when the audience is most responsive.”
“Furthermore, AI allows perfumers to monitor the carbon footprint and the environmental impact of formulas, and suggest more sustainable ingredients, offering a pragmatic approach to environmental responsibility,” Manzoni continues.
Does AI threaten to overshadow human creativity in perfume design? “As long as AI remains confined to the research process, we’re in good hands. Creators maintain their autonomy and will always have the final say,” she concludes.
Craft Your Unique Fragrance with Algorithmic Perfumery
Craft Your Unique Fragrance with Algorithmic Perfumery. Artwork courtesy of Constanza Coscia
Get ready to have fun, stress less, and literally experience true happiness with these bespoke AI-powered fragrance generators.
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EveryHuman, an algorithmic perfumery based in the Netherlands, offers you the opportunity to craft the perfect fragrance tailored to your preferences through their AI-guided platform. Additionally, you can explore the Moooi x EveryHuman AI tool, designed to assist you in creating a personalised room fragrance “guided by your imagination, and a little push from AI.” According to the marketing pitch, your imagination is at the core, while AI serves as a facilitator.
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For those in South Korea, Amorepacific presents a unique experience with their personalised bath bomb maker, aptly named the “bathbot.” Installed in the Amore Store Gwanggyo flagship store, this AI-powered device predicts your preferred scent with the help of an Artificial Intelligence-based algorithm, providing you with customised bath bombs.
NOS (NoOrdinaryScent), a digital perfume house established in 2020, utilises an AI-based technology known as Emotiontech to craft custom scents for brands. They source quality raw ingredients from Grasse, the renowned French capital of fragrances. You can even book a workshop at their laboratory in Stockholm to create your own unique fragrance.
Gaia Giordani
Generative AI explorer and New Media Communication expert